Painting aluminum panels in garage with Bedliner, advice or experience appreciated
After seeing the inspiring videos from Gene (fastthings) and following Kempo's build, I think I'd like to go with the U-pol bedliner material on all the aluminum panels.
Attractive features include the durability and vibration/dampening quality, and ability to touchup scratches and scuffs.
My entire frame is powercoated in satin black. Original plan was to have the same powdercoating on the aluminum panels, but then I feel I'd be putting a 'bedliner' type of coating on many of them anyways afterwards.
What will I need to get this done in my garage? I don't have any experience with this yet, so this seemed like a good project to develop some of these skills.
- Paint booth to hang panels in (PVC tube frame, plastic sheeting and exhaust fan)
- Respirator and goggles
- A bigger compressor
- U-pol bedliner kit (comes with spray gun included).
- Prep aluminum panels with acetone, sanding, etching primer (recommendations?)
- Should I spray an Epoxy primer before the bed liner? I know Gene did this using the PPG DP90LF. Being a rookie, would the cost outweigh the benefits? Additional equipment required?
Just hashing out the details on how I may be able to get this project underway, would love any and all guidance. Thanks!
I used lizard skin on my panels and I sanded and cleaned the panels with good results. I tried the same with my close out panels using rock-it liner and did not work, the panels lifted and ended having to strip them resand and clean. The directions call for primer and sanding the primer.I used ppg shop line black epoxy primer on all my close out panels and rock-it liner on the side exposed to the road and on the side of the panels facing the inside of the car lizard skin as well.
The over spay of the rock-it liner is mesy,do it outside I used a big piece of cardboard behind the panels to catch the over spray and cover the area to keep the over spray out.
The mfgr recommends using their "acid-etch primer #8" on bare metal before shooting the Raptor bedliner. You can buy it in easy to use spray cans, that's what I would go with.
Mike - looked at the lizard skin products, may get some for the finishing touches. Really appreciate your input on the Rock-it liner. Based on your advice I think I'm going to do the same as Gene - Sand panels, epoxy primer, and U pol bed liner (with a bit of reducer to thin the texture).
I would use wax and grease remover before and after you sand the pannels with like 80 grit. Then use a good self etching primer, let it cure proper and then put on what ever brand you trust.
Cover the floor and any close walls with plastic, wear some garbage shoes and gloves, and go for it.
The U-POL stuff seems to be a good product, it is the first time I've used it though, so I really have no clue on how it will hold up. The guys I bought it from I trust. The boxes I bought came with a gun, so it is easy to mix and spray, and clean up because you just throug it away.
I'm glad I saw you thread...I do not recomend thinning the U-POL. I was experimenting, and decided it is better left alone!!
I'm confused as to why you need to go through the extra process of applying the primer coat before the U-pol? It would sure save you time and headache by just spraying it with acid etch #8 and then shooting your U-pol, it looks like that's what the mfgr says to do. Much less sanding, that's for sure.
I'm confused as to why you need to go through the extra process of applying the primer coat before the U-pol? It would sure save you time and headache by just spraying it with acid etch #8 and then shooting your U-pol, it looks like that's what the mfgr says to do. Much less sanding, that's for sure.
(not trying to argue, just a thought)
Gary
Well, I guess I didn't read the directions. That's just the way I've always done it.
Didn't the directions say to sand with 220 or something.
They say to lightly scuff, well, I think 80 grit is just right. You have to break the surface to give the primer something to bight into. I would not go higher than 220.
U-POL acic#8 is a self etching primer, I am not familliar with the data sheet on it. You would have to see it before spraying to make sure you know the correct curing time. Seems like you would need many many cans to do all the pannels.
I use a self etching sealer. I have used dp for many years, very toxic stuff. The more toxic it is the better product it is. I do like using self etching primer in a can for little things. You should always use some kind of etch on bare metal, especially aluminum.
I recomend reading all product data sheets on any product you put on your car.
Well, I guess I didn't read the directions. That's just the way I've always done it.
Didn't the directions say to sand with 220 or something.
They say to lightly scuff, well, I think 80 grit is just right. You have to break the surface to give the primer something to bight into. I would not go higher than 220.
U-POL acic#8 is a self etching primer, I am not familliar with the data sheet on it. You would have to see it before spraying to make sure you know the correct curing time. Seems like you would need many many cans to do all the pannels.
I use a self etching sealer. I have used dp for many years, very toxic stuff. The more toxic it is the better product it is. I do like using self etching primer in a can for little things. You should always use some kind of etch on bare metal, especially aluminum.
I recomend reading all product data sheets on any product you put on your car.
Very true on all. I was a body man for 6yrs, painted quite a few cars, a few show cars, etc. as a way to put myself through college, but that was 15yrs ago so I'm definitely not an expert anymore. If I were doing a lot of panels I think you can buy the #8 in cans and spray it yourself with a primer gun, then spray the U-Pol raptor. Keeps it simple that way. But yeah, if it were an exterior paint finish over bare metal I use a cleaner, then metal prep/zinc coating (I like the POR-15 Marine clean and metal prep), then a metal etch primer, then high build primer. I use Sikkens primer and paint products, pretty much the most expensive product out there but worth every penny in my opinion. But I'm pretty anal.
80grit would work just fine I think. 120 would also. Oh and yes, the DP product is very good.
BTW: love your videos, you've done a great job, thanks from all of us.
Not to stir the pot but in my case using the rock-it liner which is coparable to the u-pol liner they recommend using their metal-loc primer surfacer and sanding and cleaning before and after. I have had good results with epoxy primers but they are expensive. The local body shop supply store recommended ppg shopline jp377 epoxy primer,I called ppg tech and they said is not necessary to use an etching primer if you sand and clean the surface good. The shopline epoxy primer is under $30.00 dollars with the catalyst about a third of the cost of the metal-loc primer they recommend two coats and it has a very nice finish,it looks like powdercoat and I am only applying the rock-it liner on the exposed side.
I've heard nothing but good things about Lizard Skin. It's a sound deadener and repels heat. It would probably be great for the tunnel and underside of car.
I've heard nothing but good things about Lizard Skin. It's a sound deadener and repels heat. It would probably be great for the tunnel and underside of car.
Lizard skin is used by the military to hide the heat signature on their vehicles. I coated all the panels,to the inside of the car foot box,tunel,fire wall and bulkheads including the engine compartment panels on both side with the sound control and ceramic coating also the inside of the body fiberglass and doors. The plastic engine cover is going to get sound control and ceramic coating on both sides and after it gets recovered with leather will get dynamat on the inside. Only the close out panels that dont face to the passenger compartment dont have lizard skin on both sides.
Agree with Gene, some excellent information in the discussion!
Looking at the tcp global website and youtube, indeed the U-pol raptor and the Rock-it liner seem to be very similar products as Mike mentioned.
I'm betting that both the #8 acid etching primer or the epoxy primer options will hold up well with the bedliner coatings on the aluminum.
Indeed the U-pol acid etch primer looks to be available in 1L tins (thanks for pointing that out), think I'll get a primer gun to spray that with instead of the aerosol cans.
I certainly would like to get a 'finer' texture to the coating than what I see a lot of guys doing on the pickup beds, my guess is that I'll just need to apply thinner, faster coats. Maybe an coat extra or two.
Tons of help so far, thanks again! I'm sure I'll be back with some more silly questions soon.
Agree with Gene, some excellent information in the discussion!
Looking at the tcp global website and youtube, indeed the U-pol raptor and the Rock-it liner seem to be very similar products as Mike mentioned.
I'm betting that both the #8 acid etching primer or the epoxy primer options will hold up well with the bedliner coatings on the aluminum.
Indeed the U-pol acid etch primer looks to be available in 1L tins (thanks for pointing that out), think I'll get a primer gun to spray that with instead of the aerosol cans.
I certainly would like to get a 'finer' texture to the coating than what I see a lot of guys doing on the pickup beds, my guess is that I'll just need to apply thinner, faster coats. Maybe an coat extra or two.
Tons of help so far, thanks again! I'm sure I'll be back with some more silly questions soon.
Aman
Cool, post pics when you're done, I'd like to see how it turned out. In doing some research on U-pol raptor, I saw a post on a jeep forum where the guy said he didn't have much luck in thinning out the raptor, so you may want to try a small batch on a test panel first.
Cool, post pics when you're done, I'd like to see how it turned out. In doing some research on U-pol raptor, I saw a post on a jeep forum where the guy said he didn't have much luck in thinning out the raptor, so you may want to try a small batch on a test panel first.
I agree I had no luck thinning it out, it's best left as is.
The spray gun that is used for the liner has a fix nozzle basically a siphon,by regulating the air pressure and the speed of the pass you can make the texture light or heavy. Do a test pass on a piece of carboard to adjust air pressure and speed of your pass.
I found some good info on a urethane product that can be thinned to get a smooth surface. Also an application gun with a 5 point nozzle. The product name is Al's Liner Do It Yourself Spray On Bed Liner. I went to real truck .con . Under the details section at the bottom of the page, it has Frequently Asked Questions, Specifications, Al's Spray Techniques, and Cleaning Recommendations. I'm not trying to advertise for any one, but this is good info and is relevant to this thread.
Came across this discussion and thought I would post some progress pictures.
Last fall I ended up spraying some U-pol in the garage. Began with buying the supplies, and another compressor that I could hook up to my existing one in parallel to achieve the required CFM.
Setup a makeshift spray booth in the garage, overall I'm happy with the results.
One thing I did not see mentioned is the characteristic of aluminum. You must put some kind of finish on it (prime, sealer, etc,) within 8 hours of sanding. Aluminum opens during sanding and then begins to close up, too long and you lose the bite. I have been using 180 to sand out the panels and then build up primer/sealer. knock out with 220/320 to smooth out what ever is left over. Spray the final coating liner/paint. On thing I found out about bed liner on the panels is that it looks really good for about 4 months and then.......it becomes hard to keep clean if you drive a lot. Go out and look at pick up bed liners and you will see what I'm talking about. The race car is done in a single stage paint finish and always looks clean. Yvonne did hers with bed liner and has 10k miles on it and never looks crisp and clean. She cleans and cleans and not too satisfied.
One thing I did not see mentioned is the characteristic of aluminum. You must put some kind of finish on it (prime, sealer, etc,) within 8 hours of sanding. Aluminum opens during sanding and then begins to close up, too long and you lose the bite. I have been using 180 to sand out the panels and then build up primer/sealer. knock out with 220/320 to smooth out what ever is left over. Spray the final coating liner/paint. On thing I found out about bed liner on the panels is that it looks really good for about 4 months and then.......it becomes hard to keep clean if you drive a lot. Go out and look at pick up bed liners and you will see what I'm talking about. The race car is done in a single stage paint finish and always looks clean. Yvonne did hers with bed liner and has 10k miles on it and never looks crisp and clean. She cleans and cleans and not too satisfied.
Good point. I would choose a material that is eutothane and dries with a gloss finnish. Then you can wash it with a mit and soap, like the outside of the car. U-Pol is eurothane, and dries gloss.
By the way, it's been awhile since I put that stuff on and I have had a chance to test It's adhesion. I have cut threw it and the fractured part chips off, but the unstressed part holds. I tried to pick it off, and it's holding good.
The
representations expressed are the representations and opinions of
the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the
opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website
has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members
and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any
purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the
Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five
Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to
post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is
owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages
posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these
messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason
whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your
messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with
respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s).
Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory
Five.
2011 FFCar 
Gen2 GTM
Linear Mode
