IMO there is no comparison between anodizing and powdercoating for the aluminum panels.....performance-wise anyway. Anodizing is NOT a film or coating or something that can peel or chip off. It becomes part of the aluminum. In my experience it is probably 10 times more scratch resistant than PC. All of your rivet holes will not need to be re-drilled with anodizing like they will with PC. Anodizing will not flake off in huge sheets like PC on bare alum. I don't PC any panel that I plan on putting anything else over top of, like sound or heat barrier, carpet, suede, as I trust the bond between the suede and PC more than I trust the bond between the PC and the alum. If you have any doubts about this, just have a panel powdercoated, and then use some shears to trim the edge of the panel. I promise you that somewhere along the edge you have trimmed, the PC will start coming loose and you can grab it and peel back large chunks from the panel.
The major advantage that PC has over anodizing is cost and availability. Much easier and cheaper to find someone local who can powdercoat than to find somewhere that will anodize. Although I still wouldn't anodize the "unseen" panels due to cost, anodizing will actually IMPROVE the bond of whatever you are applying over the panel compared to raw alum.
Anyway, looks like you have a fun project ahead of you. Hope you enjoy it. Congrats!
__________________ Shane Vacek-VRaptor SpeedWorks, L.L.C. Supplier of Many Custom Products for the GTM! GTM's & SL-C's Custom Built for You! http://www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Fraser D, you have found that Lizard Shin does not bond well?
That is what I don't want.
I think I will powder coat all pannels?(still thinking), again durability and best bond is what I want.
I used Mortan bed liner in that yellow car, inside, bottom, and underside of fiberglass pannels. The finnish is awsome, nice and sniny, wash it with a wash mit, but you can stick you knife under it and pick it right off, no bond.
Kempo, I wonder how the SEM is as far as the bond, have you ever tried to peel it off on a test piece? Did you put it on bare aluminum? I see the finnish on you pics, looks good. Will you put it on the inside of the FG pannels?
Well for now, we are hanging and drilling the pannels on the bottom. I think the plan is to mock up the whole car, drilling all the holes for all the pannels, mounting the body and getting all the messy stuff done first. Which would mean, we will have the body ready to paint before the gokart.
IMO there is no comparison between anodizing and powdercoating for the aluminum panels.....performance-wise anyway. Anodizing is NOT a film or coating or something that can peel or chip off. It becomes part of the aluminum. In my experience it is probably 10 times more scratch resistant than PC. All of your rivet holes will not need to be re-drilled with anodizing like they will with PC. Anodizing will not flake off in huge sheets like PC on bare alum. I don't PC any panel that I plan on putting anything else over top of, like sound or heat barrier, carpet, suede, as I trust the bond between the suede and PC more than I trust the bond between the PC and the alum. If you have any doubts about this, just have a panel powdercoated, and then use some shears to trim the edge of the panel. I promise you that somewhere along the edge you have trimmed, the PC will start coming loose and you can grab it and peel back large chunks from the panel.
The major advantage that PC has over anodizing is cost and availability. Much easier and cheaper to find someone local who can powdercoat than to find somewhere that will anodize. Although I still wouldn't anodize the "unseen" panels due to cost, anodizing will actually IMPROVE the bond of whatever you are applying over the panel compared to raw alum.
Anyway, looks like you have a fun project ahead of you. Hope you enjoy it. Congrats!
really? PC will peel off aluminim. Not what I want. I thought the bond would be much better than that. I wonder if the bond is related to sand blasting the pannel or not?
I get the anodizing side, I just don't think I want the look of it, I would have to use something else in the visable spots, still looking for the best bond.
Kempo, I wonder how the SEM is as far as the bond, have you ever tried to peel it off on a test piece? Did you put it on bare aluminum? I see the finnish on you pics, looks good. Will you put it on the inside of the FG pannels?
I will bond with metals including steel. You will need to use a 2K epoxy primer on the aluminum panels. I have drilled my panels after the liner was applied and haven't had any peeling around the drilled holes. I did try to peel some of a test part using a screw driver after the material had cured and I wasn't able to do it. here you can find a spec sheet on it:
I will be using it under the hood and on some parts inside the body to cover the areas that can be seen of the inside of the body after the car is finished.
Fraser D, you have found that Lizard Shin does not bond well?
That is what I don't want.
.
Lizard Skin bonds perfectly well for what it is and that is a sound and heat product. It is not designed to be resistant to direct abuse, just like Dynamat is not designed to be used in wheel wells etc.
I love doing body work, but I can't get it done quik enough.
Kind of a sick little game, I play on myself.
Nice video on centering. With this body I don't if it will make a differnce, but good stuff. As you discovered the body is not symetrical. You will be hard pressed to find something that is from side to side. Even the driver's door is wider than the passenger's. The door frames are different too.
Here are some other items you should take a look at prior to moving on.
1. check the the roof is not resting on the halo at any point.
2. check to see if there is a gap in the horizontal passenger side door sill. (if you have #1 you will have #2)
__________________
R/s
Vidal
CURRENT STATUS: Bodywork.
GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE: http://gtmbuild.weebly.com .
Nice video on centering. With this body I don't if it will make a differnce, but good stuff. As you discovered the body is not symetrical. You will be hard pressed to find something that is from side to side. Even the driver's door is wider than the passenger's. The door frames are different too.
Here are some other items you should take a look at prior to moving on.
1. check the the roof is not resting on the halo at any point.
2. check to see if there is a gap in the horizontal passenger side door sill. (if you have #1 you will have #2)
well, I used a spacer between the body and the cage, and tried to keep even gaps everywhere else. I wasn't sure how much roo, I should alow between the cage.
LOL. that was my dog, and as it was happening I almost stopped, then I said scew it.
well, I used a spacer between the body and the cage, and tried to keep even gaps everywhere else. I wasn't sure how much roo, I should alow between the cage.
LOL. that was my dog, and as it was happening I almost stopped, then I said scew it.
Do you have a gap in the passenger sill like the picture?
__________________
R/s
Vidal
CURRENT STATUS: Bodywork.
GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE: http://gtmbuild.weebly.com .
Great work!
The video really helps to illustrate what your thought process is and you do a good job top explain what you are looking for as you go along.
Great work!
The video really helps to illustrate what your thought process is and you do a good job top explain what you are looking for as you go along.
Faser D,
I appriciate the complement.
It's kinda funny though, because tonight I put the hood into place, and holly crap. My thought process is going crazy right now, that thing is going to need lots of massaging. No wonder guys have their car in a shop for dang near a year.
The regulator is also the window stop/limiter for the down position and with it in the stock location the window will not go down as far as in your video by what looks like almost 2 inches (maybe a little less). Are you planning on relocating it?
My passenger side window initially would rub the pillar too. I had to adjust the door up and aft. That took care of the issue.
__________________
R/s
Vidal
CURRENT STATUS: Bodywork.
GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE: http://gtmbuild.weebly.com .
The regulator is also the window stop/limiter for the down position and with it in the stock location the window will not go down as far as in your video by what looks like almost 2 inches (maybe a little less). Are you planning on relocating it?
My passenger side window initially would rub the pillar too. I had to adjust the door up and aft. That took care of the issue.
Ya, It's kinda mind blowing, all the different combo's how the stuff could fit, knowing there is only one way that will be good. I haven't put the regulater back in, but I was thinking that it is going to be in the way. I may have to relocate it. Very hard to make it all work, one thing I really had to work on was getting the glass to not rub the inside of the door when it's down all the way. I finally had to walk away, my brain was starting to slip out of gear.
Does anyone have the glass perfect, like a car from the factory? Moving all the way up, all the way down, with the door shut or open? Or people just settling for what they get.
What about the rear window frame, am I the only one that cutt and paste the post?
Ya, It's kinda mind blowing, all the different combo's how the stuff could fit, knowing there is only one way that will be good. I haven't put the regulater back in, but I was thinking that it is going to be in the way. I may have to relocate it. Very hard to make it all work, one thing I really had to work on was getting the glass to not rub the inside of the door when it's down all the way. I finally had to walk away, my brain was starting to slip out of gear.
Does anyone have the glass perfect, like a car from the factory? Moving all the way up, all the way down, with the door shut or open? Or people just settling for what they get.
It seems to require a significant amount of work to get that result. It appears that even with the regulator not installed in your door, the current configuration will not allow the window to go completely into the door.
From the information I've gathered. Outside of the builders that have made full frames, Shane's builds and a few others that have created partial frames and used different seals I would have to say yes.
I'm experimenting with different types/sizes of seals right now.
What about the rear window frame, am I the only one that cutt and paste the post?
After adjusting my doors up and aft I had to pull the body out slightly (under the door) for the door to be flush. So my doors have a top-in twist relative to yours which is why my aft portion lines up perfectly with the rear quarter window. There are many ways that the panels will fit. I don't know if any one position is "one right way" as it seams one fix/adjustment dictates the next issue requiring a fix/adjustment.
I placed my post in green above.
__________________
R/s
Vidal
CURRENT STATUS: Bodywork.
GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE: http://gtmbuild.weebly.com .
Well, I got the window to go up and down, without getting stuck. It makes a nice seal, even presure all the way around, and goes all the way down without hitting the inside of the door.
I am going to start looking for the best seal to go around the door and I want a little better seal around the window. The window seal I like but would like it to be a little thicker. Same on the door seal, maybe the same kind that came with the kit but thicker.
I got the passenger door done 80%. Off to the other side.
I had noticed that the motor looked to be in the way of where the door handle would go, but i figured you were doing some sort of electronic release seeing as you shaved the door handle.. however i am still curious it looks like the latch for the door is on the car not the door itself, what are you doing to open it from the inside?
I had noticed that the motor looked to be in the way of where the door handle would go, but i figured you were doing some sort of electronic release seeing as you shaved the door handle.. however i am still curious it looks like the latch for the door is on the car not the door itself, what are you doing to open it from the inside?
That's funny, my boy asked me the same question. You know you try to consider all while building anything. I had done all that work before I realized I had no solution or no thought to how I was going to open the door until he aked as I was showing off the door trim. I couldn't believe I had not considered that.
I'll have to open it with an electrical switch, the switch will be hooked to the existing door opener. So when your in the car, I will retain the normal way to open the door, and I won't have to modify the door card, nor will I have a door with a nonfunctioning handle. Should be fine.
I am looking for your guys input if you see me screwing up.
Gene
Last edited by fastthings; 12-05-2011 at 07:08 PM..
Reason: trying to correct spelling
I see, it would be pretty cool if you hid a pushbutton switch behind the door handle and locked the handle from moving. It would sort of be like the exterior handle on a C6 vette..
Or you could theoretically use the flexible cable brake line from a bicycle and run it inside to the latch? Or fiberglass the handle into a nice looking release botton.. Just throwing ideas out there for ya lol
Thinking out loud....... I would have the interior handle activate a micro-swt installed on the back side of the handle and add an emergency cable release somewhere within reach sitting reach.
__________________
R/s
Vidal
CURRENT STATUS: Bodywork.
GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE: http://gtmbuild.weebly.com .
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