This is the dash that came today with my FFR. I'm using vintage gauges. Does this look right? Don't the gauges mount from the back with a U shaped bracket? What are all the countersunk holes for? Also the speedo & tach holes have the aluminum perforated 1/4" larger all round. Thanks, Rick [img]graemlins/blue.gif[/img]
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Rick Aronson, FFR# 4627. CHP 393w Stroker, Black w/ Arctic Sliver stripes. Licensed in CA 5/5/04 Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!
Larry, that's what I was thinking. The bolt holes aren't even symetrical about the gauge holes.
David, I'd like to have the 427 S/C layout. The one with the speedo over in the middle area, but I don't know what I'd cut nice clean holes with. My tool coral is pretty limited. Is there an easy way? I need to return this dash to FFR anyway and I could get one that's not cut out.
Thanks, Rick
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Rick Aronson, FFR# 4627. CHP 393w Stroker, Black w/ Arctic Sliver stripes. Licensed in CA 5/5/04 Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tri-States makes a very nice pre-cut dash with the S/C layout for AM gauges. It's $75, but could be worth it.
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.boB
Dart 427W, Momar 8 Stack EFI, 600'ish hp, TKO, 3.55 TruTrac, Red with Ghost Flames. More fun than should legally be allowed. http://home.comcast.net/~bobcowan035/site/
O2WORLD, Buy a circle cutter from a local hardware store to cut out the gague holes. If you have a True Value Hardware in your neighborhood they should have one. I think they cost $10-$15.
Hole saws will work on the small gauges. For the big ones Radio Shack sells a sheet metal nibbler for $10. Just drill a 3/8" hole and start nibblin' Cuts very clean.
Rikar
I bought a bi-metalic hole saw for the 2 5/8 autometer gauges, then mounting the dash on a piece of scrap wood, I located the centers of the gauges and drilled a pilot hole for each, then cut the opening for each gauge.
I used the AM 5" tach and speedo requiring an odd size hole, so I used the 2 5/8 hole saw to make a series of overlapping circles removing most of the material, then I used my dremel to clean up the edges and open up the two big holes to the final dimension.
This was pretty inexpensive, $10 or $12 for a decent hole saw and arbor, The dremel I got for Christmas 2 years ago.
mannyjoe
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CHP 342/Modified T-5/carbed w(air/tilt/cruise/remote keyless entry)/IRS/13\"brakes on F5 coupe.
Rick,
If you know an electrician try to borrow the tool they use to knock out the holes in electrical panels. I used a hydraulic one. It does not warp the metal or walk all over like some hole saws can and it has many sizes to choose from. You can also rent one.
John
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----I reject your reality and substitute my own----
Hi all, Thanks for the info John. I got a email from Rich at FFR. He said this is the new "one size fits all" dash layout and cutouts. All the extra little holes to hold the donor gauges makes for a pretty funky look to me. I'm going to chuck it and get the S/C layout dash from Tri States for $75.00. No doubt FFR does the kit better than anyone but nobodies perfect. Rick
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Rick Aronson, FFR# 4627. CHP 393w Stroker, Black w/ Arctic Sliver stripes. Licensed in CA 5/5/04 Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is the donor gauge layout. When you don't specify a blank dash during your order it's what you get by default. If you do it all stock and carve up the mustang gauge pod, you end up like this (minus the glove box and a few switches I added):
The countersunk holes are only for mounting the donor gauges. You wouldn't believe how cheezy it looks from behind, but it actually works pretty well.
I have heard that the standard Autometer gauges can work with the existing FFR holes. So if you decide to use the dash you have with aftermarket gauges, just fill the countersunk holes flush with silicone or body filler and they'll go away. Someday I'll change mine out, after I drive the car a bit.
EDIT - I just noticed the perforation you mentioned. Mine didn't have that. Nice of them to mark out the next size up for you.
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