I have heard it is best to drill several 3/16" holes in the outer flange of a thermostat when using an electric water pump (which I'm using). Can anyone tell me why?
2FAST
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Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
Here is the reason holes are drilled in the thermostat when using an electric water pump (from another forum):
Quote:
When the thermostat is closed it blocks water flow. With a conventional water pump there is a small bypass hose that allow limited water to circulate. With the electric pump you must block off this bypass. This means with the thermostat closed the pump will build up pressure in the block and increase the load on the pump. The holes in the thermostat allow small amounts of water to flow; this bleeds off the pressure and allows some water to circulate prior to the thermostat opening. Smaller amounts of water flowing allow the block to reach temp quickly, then the thermostat opens allowing full flow.
2FAST
__________________
Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
Sounds about right. Make sure you use a Robert Shaw design thermostat though. Meziere says it has the best flow whice is desirable for electric pumps. You can purchace one thru Mr. Gasket.
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501/650+hp stroker solid roller motor that still needs induction. One cheap engine stand starting to bend. Hope to order kit sometime in 2006.Deployed to Iraq missing my family.Ordering parts to stay focused.
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Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
I got that information from the Meziere catalog in which I have the CSI catalog too. I have been doing all the research and have'nt decided which pump to buy. Another good tip if your interested.I found a answer for a expansion tank. Meziere has a waterneck with a radiator cap built in and a 1/8 NPT hole for a over flow tank.The p/n is WNOO14R(RED),WNOO14B(BLUE),WNOO14P(PURPLE ,your color) S FOR BLACK and U FOR POLISHED . Hope all this helps.By the way what made you chose CSI. [img]graemlins/grape.gif[/img]
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501/650+hp stroker solid roller motor that still needs induction. One cheap engine stand starting to bend. Hope to order kit sometime in 2006.Deployed to Iraq missing my family.Ordering parts to stay focused.
I was thinking about the Meziere as well. Simply flipped a coin. CSI won. My short block is shipping today (Feb 13) from the East coast. Should be here next week, and then........let the fun begin
2FAST
__________________
Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
Thanks Stangs8 I did not want to open that pandoras box but agree with you... this is what Engine Factory clearly states int he installation instructions that came with my 500hp 351... this is a debated topic but since they built my motor and stand behind it I am going with the experts.
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Upstate NY. Moved in and starting to work in the garage and not on it!
When I talked with CSI, they said to use a thermostat. I will try it first with a thermostat (180 deg) with a couple of holes drilled in it. If it shows signs of overheating, I will give it a try w/o a thermostat.
Thanks guys
2FAST
__________________
Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
From my old racing days- no thermostat will allow the coolant to pass through the system too fast. A good compromise is to take a stock thermostat and punch the middle out. This acts like a restrictor and slows the water flow down so the water spends enough time in the radiator to cool properly. Bob
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Building one of these kits is not for the weak of mind or heart! After all this time, IT'S A KEEPER.
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