While putting new studs in the rear spindles I noticed the with a little of torque I could turn a axel independent of the yoke and the other axel.
Is there something wrong here? I need to be sure because it would be a lot easier to take it out now than later.
Thanks MIKE
There is a "break-away" torque spec for the trac-loc unit but I don't remember what it is right now. Just because you can turn one wheel while the other is being held still doesn't mean it's bad. The amount of force required to turn that wheel is what determines whether or not it's bad.
under accel, if the right tire breaks free when the left one doesnt (turned or straight), then the posi isnt tight enough. how tight it needs to be depends on how much traction the tires have on road surface.
there is a torque spec you can perform. but its not that hard to tell just by driving.
BTW, the clutches dont last that long under hard use- 20K miles maybe? so most donors will be shot.
easy and cheap to replace.
-james
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FFCars member #9 - FFR 1630 http://thevenom.net 351 V8, 302 V8, Renesis, whatever's in a Murano
How easy is it to replace the clutch pak? I have the Chilton ford book and I can't find a section on replacing it. can somebody give me instructions..or would it be best to fork over the $250.00 the shop wants
Thanks Mike
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FFR3456 IN BUILD 302,=306, IRS,17\" PSE GT 40\'S,COBRA INTAKES,ACCUFAB 70MM T/B,PRO/M 75MM MAF,SVO-INJECTORS 24LB, MSD EVERYTHING ,AFR HEADS,X-303CAM,TREMEC 3550,McLEORD B/H & CLUTCH PRO/SHIFTER ORANGE/WHITE NON DONOR
It is really easy to do. The only hard parts are getting the spider gears back in and phased properly(at least for me) and putting the spring in. If you are not afraid to use a BFH(big effin hammer), then the spring is easy. It took me about 30 minutes to do mine and I had never done one before.
you can also compress the spring in a vise and put on two hose clamps. then it is easy to get started. when i went to do russ's trak loc for his coupe, the only tool i took was my BFG. they all laughed at this, but then they all wanted to borrow it later! great tool!
be patient getting the right shims. note: put the spiders and center pin in to see if the axles will fit (this is determined by the shims you use) BEFORE you put the spring in.
-james
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FFCars member #9 - FFR 1630 http://thevenom.net 351 V8, 302 V8, Renesis, whatever's in a Murano
If you are running FFR uppers and lowers, or autowelds, you will most likely still get inside wheel spin even if you have a good trak lok.
Use enough shim so that you can barely get the spider gears in. Like James says, use 1 or 2 hose clamps around the spring. Clamp spring in vise, tighten hose clamps.. and tap the spring in. Cut clamps and use a vise grip to get the hose clamps out.
The job is not too tough, just kinda dirty. The rebuild kit should come with instructions and will cost about $60-80 depending on where you buy it. Probably take you a couple hours if you have not done it before.
I bought my rebuild kit at summit for $48 complete with discs, shims, and friction modifier. Ditto on all the above, I did the alternating stacking fsfsfs rather than fssfssf and it is supper tight, breakaway torque was over 100ftlbs, it may be too much? for comparison a axle I got out of a 99 exploder had 70 ftlbs, unsure of mileage though I rebuilt it also extra tight its in my jeep.
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