Frame mods for Power Brake booster

[DPMAZ]

Can someone tell me the easiest way to modify the frame to use the stock mustang power booster., possibly post some pics of your setup. What additional brake line issues did you run into..gotta go do some rivetting...I'll check back here later..Thanks
Don Maggiore

[KobraKurt]

Go to Sears hardware and buy a 3 foot long piece of 3/4 sqaure (matches the frame. Cut the chassis in front of the footbox on the drivers side of the car and where the F panel end. cut the new piece to size and weld under where the original chassis piece was located. You'll also need to enlarge the hole for the master cylinder - Suggest you do a search on brakes or power brakes. There was a good thread on it a few weeks back (with pictures).

[oldguy668]

Use the search function as Kurt suggested and also check the FAQ. There are hundreds of postings and dozens of pictures.

[forrest1]

Also look here:
http://www.norcal-cobras.com/project...owerBrake1.htm

Forrest

[DeepThought]

I plan to cut and weld a curved piece into the frame. I am also here in PHX. I would be happy to do yours first

[stang8s]

Has anyone tried to heat the tube bright red and then bend it so it clears? Looks like it only needs to move about 3/4"

[mikiec]

Don,

Just cut it or have Deep thought do it for you....Then get on with your build. Remember there is lots you can do. Oh, That power coated frame looks cool..If you need more money for additional items you could always sell the Harley.

Deep Thought....for you to get to Don's house you will need to pack a lunch. Actually he is about 50 miles from you. Which out here is not far at all. You both can colaborate on your builds. There is a third build starting here in about 2 more weeks.

Mike

[JimmyHunt]

Forrest - How did the '86 Mustang SVO Turbo 4cyl Master Cylinder (NM1897 at Autozone, $52.99), work out with the Wilwood proportioning valve for the rear discs?
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[Wade Chamberlain]

Originally posted by stang8s:
Has anyone tried to heat the tube bright red and then bend it so it clears? Looks like it only needs to move about 3/4"

The problem is the tube really needs to be moved 3/4" within about 1/2" of where it's welded to the front wall of the footbox framework. I don't think you could move it as far as you need to without cutting/welding.

[stang8s]

Question that comes to mind everytime i read one of these threads is... Why dont they just build them with the tube moved or curved?? There must be some reason.

[mikiec]

It is my understanding that the factory does not think power brakes are needed. Therefore, the car is not setup to use the power brake system.

I think it would be a good idea to revisit this area. SPF's come with power brakes standard.

Mike

[forrest1]

Jimmy,

The SVO m/c worked fine, except the one I had always leaked a little bit at one of the fittings (I think the threads or seat must have been messed up), and it was a PITA to check the fluid. It was a big cast iron monster with separate cast-in reservoirs. The only way to fill it easily was by removing the wheel and splashguard and filling it from below with a mirror. If it wasn't for the annoying leak, though, I'd probably still have it.

Now I'm using a 1993 Mustang Cobra 1" m/c (PartsAmerica.com, part # 12669, $64.99), from which I have removed the plastic reservoir and replaced it with a remote reservoir from a Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager minivan (1993 to 1998 or so)(boneyard, $20). This works great! No leaks, and the reservoir is easy to reach!



Either m/c works well with the booster as far as stopping power, etc., and both require a clearance hole in the splashguard.

Stang8s,
It would be really easy for the factory to move the 3/4" tube, just as it would to angle the 3/4" tubes that mount the footbox so that it would line up properly to the firewall. They don't seem to see the need, but, hey, they did finally put in an arched trunk hoop, so who knows?

Forrest