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Old 03-18-2006, 01:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Good morning, I picked up the paint yesterday and now after talking to some people I think I may have the wrong stuff. My base coat is
STANDOX
BASECOAT
BASISLACK
LAQUE DE BASE BICOUCHE/BICAP BASE
with
NASON
FUL BASE
441-21
MEDIUM REDUCER
Am I supposed to have a paint, a reducer and a hardener? Or is this OK and all I need to use on this car? If this is OK, then what is the mix ratio for paint to reducer?

Thanks, I want to start painting stripes tonight and finish the rest tomorrow.

Jon
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Old 03-18-2006, 01:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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[ March 18, 2006, 10:17 AM: Message edited by: Busa*Vinny ]
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Busa*Vinny:
yes its OK to have a paint, a reducer and a hardener if that's what the paint requires, i usually use ppg so i'm not familiar with your brand but my base coat (DBC) uses a reducer(DT) and an optional hardener/activator(DX57), in this case the hardener/activator is not necessary in the fact that it will spray fine and be cleared fine but it wont chemically cross link until the clear is applied, it dries but doesn't cure without the H/A, and if your wet sanding your clear and break into the base coat spots and blends are easy cause you wont have any lifting problems that you may if your base is not activated, also if you try to shoot stripes or graphics over uncatalyzed base you could also get lifting unless you use some sort of inter coat clear, in ppg its dbu or dbc 500 color blender

it is extremely important to get a copy of the p sheet (spec sheet)if your not familiar with the product, your supplier should have it, or maybe you can find it on the web, this sheet will tell you everything you need to know including mixing ratios, flash times, dry times, re coat windows,surface prep, sanding grit, compatible surfaces,

sorry i couldn't help more, maybe one of the pros is familiar with standox,good luck........Vinny
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Old 03-18-2006, 03:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply Vinny. I did manage to talk to a body shop this morning. They said basically the same as you. But he did say spray the blue first, then the white stripes over the blue but it sounds like you are saying to paint the stripes over the primer and the blue over the primer not stripes over the blue or blue over the edges of the wide white area I planned to apint down the center first. This is the reverse of what was said here on the forum a week ago when I had some questions.

Jon
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Old 03-18-2006, 09:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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no sorry for the confusion, i wasn't suggesting which way you should do the stripes, i was just saying if you painted the stripes after,like some do, to make sure the base color you will be painting over is activated so you don't have lifting issues

my good friend recently repainted bike fairings and he did not use the optional activator and it lifted, i did what any good friend would do , i laughed at him and told him"i told you so", me and him have used PPG dbu in the past which has a reactive reducer(activator in the reducer)and he has never had a problem repainting over it, but dbu has become unavailable in our area and replaced with dbc, and he didn't want to spend the extra money for the activator for dbc

most suggest painting the stripe color first, over the primer, down the center of the car, wait for it to dry enough to tape, then tape the area that will be the stripes( tape and paper covering the stripe color)then paint your body color, remove the taped stripes, and clear over everything

i am going to paint mine soon too and will do it that way too, except after i tape off the stripes i am going to shoot a few coats of black base, sand that down with 800,to make sure its dead flat and also to provide better coverage ability of the blue, then spray my Lexus indigo ink color, remove tape, clear everything, then after a few days i will block the clear flat again and shoot another coat or 2, then wet sand and polish.......good luck.......Vinny
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