Any follow up on the potential brake failure on #48?
Its still in the trailer, but my hunch is a bad proportioning valve on the rear line. Ive looked over the G2X data, my sensor is between the master and the prop valve on the rear line, and I read max PSI (1700psi) when the issue is occurring. Once I get it home Ill do some more digging into it. I did overheat my rear drivers caliper at Sebring when the pad wore down to past the backing plate, might as well change out the 2 rear calipers while Im at it...
It looks like you guys are running tbird non-vented on the back?
I seem to have my brake woes under control. I went to Hawk HP+ on the back, replaced the old lines with SS lines, and put the prop valve back on the front, but as close as possible to the MC per Joe Camire's recommendation.
I can now twist the knob 2 turns, and measure a noticeable difference, and still keep great pressure on the front, but move the backs from locking up to not locking up.
I am sure you can imagine the G's I can generate with 275 Hoosier A6's on the front and 315's on the back. I may need to get a HANS device.
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I was running the non-vented Mustang rear brakes, 38mm caliper bore size. I am switching to the Thunderbird because the caliper bore size is 45mm, which will make me adjust the bias more towards the front, or have me change my front master from 7/8 to 13/16 (for softer feel which I want.)
I was running the non-vented Mustang rear brakes, 38mm caliper bore size. I am switching to the Thunderbird because the caliper bore size is 45mm, which will make me adjust the bias more towards the front, or have me change my front master from 7/8 to 13/16 (for softer feel which I want.)
Good info John. Post the part numbers if you get a chance and make sure you measure the bore when you get them! They look identical..
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So it looks like the 45mm caliper has a larger surface area pad as well, not sure how much more. It looks like the Raybestos FRC4267 and FRC4268 have the 1.785 or 45mm piston and come with the bracket.
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Got in a couple 88 tbird calipers. A few comments:
Will not work with 11.65 rotors. The rotor hits the caliper on the outer edges. Can the caliper be ground down in that area?
The caliper bracket is a smidge off when it comes to seating in the axle bracket. It is so minor I think grinding the axle bracket of even removing any burrs will let the two mate properly.
It does look like the pad has a significant amount more pad area. I don't see Hawk HP+ listed, so maybe someone can nail that down, otherwise I will have to order XP12's from Carbotech. I imagine they can do something.
Any thoughts?
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bstuke, we have to run 10" rotor as per challenge series rules, so not sure about the 11" rotor issue.
The calipers bolted right up to Oben's axle brackets without issue, although on the drivers side I had to add a small shim between the axle bracket and caliper bracket to make sure the caliper will be centered to the rotor. Not sure if this is because my axle leangth or where my c-clip/clutch pack is at...
As for pads, they seem to be double the area of the SN95 setup. Im trying Hawk HB580G.627 (DTC-60) at NJMP this weekend along with the same compound up front (DTC-60.)
OK, I saw those DTC-60 pads, but will wait, as I am pretty set. I could use more balance, and a larger piston and more pad area on the back will accomplish that significantly. I think I can trim the caliper where there is mainly flash, and get the clearance I need.
And I have the axle bracket for 11.65 rotors vs what you have.
Thanks for the update.
Stuke
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