DaveT's Gen III Coupe Build Thread (#17) - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
DaveT's Gen III Coupe Build Thread (#17)

Hi Folks,

The build thread begins.

This is a 'road' frame Gen III coupe, powder-coated frame, rear IRS, with front and rear sway bars.

Motor/trans will be a 302-based small-block and a TKO600 trans.

Delivery thread is here:

Gen III Coupe coming soon to CA...

Inventory is done- just a few things missing (some stuff is backordered) like a nut and a headlight trim ring.

My initial impression is good. Rear IRS mount spacing is correct. Top of driver's side footbox is one panel that can be made removable. Front window curvature matches the body and there is very little gap- probably no need for window trim rubber- just urethane and go.

Dave

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4.jpg (152.2 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg 1.jpg (96.7 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg 3.jpg (94.7 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (114.7 KB, 40 views)
taved is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
First issue with rear IRS install

Ok, jacked up the diff, pivoted it downward and got the front bolts in.

But the tapped bolt holes in the aluminum rear cover are lined up too high.

With a guy pulling down on the diff I can just about get thread engagement but not quite and I don't want to strip these threads.

My buddy (let's call him Richard) wanted to use a 2x4 to pry the diff downwards against the frame. I said "no prying allowed"- "let's stop and think about this" (and hit the forums).

I know that edwardb used 'bull-pins' to get his diff in- I can try that, but I'm concerned that the pins will muck up the threads in the aluminum cover.

I can hang two guys off the diff and see of that pulls down enough on the bushings. Maybe just hanging there overnight will help.

I can take the front bolts out and start with the rears. Or maybe back them out so they are in just a quarter inch and then pull down again on the diff.

I appreciate any advice.

Thanks,
Dave

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0038.jpg (112.1 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0039.jpg (124.0 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0036.jpg (161.0 KB, 41 views)
taved is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:23 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 4,816
IMO get the rear bolts started and partially threaded in first no matter what method you use. Then get the front ones aligned and installed. The bull pins you mentioned I used were on the front (un-threaded) bushings. Never on the rear threaded mounts, which I would not recommend. Worked very well. I tugged and mildly beat on mine a bit before calling it a night. A bit like your story. Took minutes when I used the pins the next morning. But I know others have used other methods. It is a tight fit.

Congrats on your delivery BTW. I'll be watching as I'm thinking about a Gen 3 Coupe as my next build.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by edwardb; 05-25-2017 at 12:35 PM.
edwardb is online now  
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
Ok, rear bolts first into the diff cover threads, then bull-pins in the front.

I'll get some bolts to make the pins with a grinder and give it another go this evening.

I think that this with a combination of ratchet straps to pull the diff into alignment should work.

Thanks,
Dave
taved is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
Ok, picked up some bolts at lunch to make pins. Looking around for my axle grinder I saw two 3/8" extensions and they looked like they would work.

Jacked up the diff a bit to relieve pressure on the front bolts and got them out.

Then got the rear bolts into the threads of the aluminum cover, no problems (used anti-seize). Put the bolts in most of the way as to not strip the threads later assuming that all 4 bolts would be fighting each other.

Now I had to jack up the front of the diff- got one front bolt in by turning it with a ratchet and socket. I stopped about halfway in and went to the other side. Seems these bolts will thread themselves in and then stop moving in at some point. My assumption is that at an off-angle the bolt threads grip and pull the bolt in. Once halfway in and mostly straight, the threads fail to grip. I could then pound the bolts in with a 2 lb dead-blow hammer (orange plastic one with sand in the head).

I used a ratchet-strap on one side to pull the diff down a bit.

I had used assembly lube on the bolts. The nuts threaded on just fine- I was nervous about that. As I did this (lots of wrenching and pounding) I asked myself why I had gone to the gym in the AM.

So, it's done. I have to believe that this will be the toughest part of the build (and why I did this first). I wonder if FFR builds in some level of toughness on purpose- to make the graduation more of an accomplishment.

Dave
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0049.jpg (205.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0054.jpg (160.6 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0044.jpg (169.8 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0045.jpg (151.8 KB, 33 views)
taved is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 02:28 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
70gtvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Streetsboro Ohio, near Kent State
Posts: 599
Doing the whole build, body finishing too, yourself? Bachman Turner Overdrive has a song for you in regard to your thinking you did the hard part first. It's called "You ain't seen nothin' yet.". But after it is all said and done you'll look back on it and all those hard trials and tribulations will be nothing more then a happy memory. Don't sweat it, if it were easy everyone would have one and IIRC since around the year 2000 there are only about 800 + or - kits out there in various stages of completion. Enjoy it!
70gtvert is online now  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 04:12 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
John Dol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Gorham, ME
Posts: 2,959
Good stuff Dave, upward and onwards!

John

Building when I can, sigh....


Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
First start Sept. 18 2013
First go kart Sept 19 2013


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John Dol is online now  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
The IRS is the hardest part of the build- you can quote me...but ask me again in 6 months.

I plan on doing all of it- body work, paint, windshield install, etc. The rules are all labor by me (with some family/friends help) with a no-limit budget on tools. I may even build the motor (done this before).

I'm back-ordered on front/rear lower control arms- these are supposed to ship next week. I really want to get the car on it's own wheels asap and then get the body off and hoisted up into my garage ceiling.

Dave
taved is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
Fuel Gauge Sender

On to the fuel tank install.

I wanted to do this now as it's sort of a non-committal trial-fit step and my kids can help out- and learn a bit about circuits/gauges.

A few years ago I was having an issue with an old Chevy fuel gauge (1972 El Camino) that would only register a quarter tank when full. My dad read up on the issue and built a 'Fuel Gauge Demonstrator' for me wherein various switch positions would deactivate/isolate parts of the circuit. In the end, I replaced the resistor on the back of the Chevy dashboard (seen in the center of the demonstrator) and all was good.

So this time it was all new stuff which worked fine once I realized that the yellow wire on the new sender had broken off the PCB board - easy enough to crack the housing open and re-solder it.

Dave (#17)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0057.jpg (124.5 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0060.jpg (155.9 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0056.jpg (201.5 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0055.jpg (160.5 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0059.jpg (141.0 KB, 27 views)
taved is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
And the tank...

A few things of interest:

The tank rim is bent up in four places to accommodate the straps- the two in the rear will need to be bent back level with the tank- see the gap between the tank rim and car frame- this is because of the rim bends that I had not flattened. And only two black square plastic caps are needed on the frame.

The pickup area of the tank is baffled. Neither of my sender retaining ring tools quite fit - I might try the DIY PVC tool. Not having the right tool here and ever having to remove one of these rings on a partially-filled gas tank is unnerving - even if it is grounded I hate tapping on stuff.

My Harbor Freight stool came in real handy- just hit the 'up' lever and it holds the tank in place better than a helper.

The filler neck will need to go in after the tank is in place.

The rear aluminum floor has two well-placed cutouts and the whole floor comes out easily if you curl down one side of it- I curled down the right side and took the floor in and out several times just to make sure it really was easy.

There is quite a bit of un-used volume above the tank and the tank can come in and out with the body on the car.

I need to drop the tank and flatten the two rear tank rim areas. I'm also thinking of adding thin rubber strips between the tank rim and frame rails- should I do that?

Dave (#17)

Attached Images
File Type: jpg tank1.jpg (215.3 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg tank3.jpg (177.1 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg tank5.jpg (124.9 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg tank7.jpg (182.3 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg tank9.jpg (187.7 KB, 41 views)
taved is offline  
post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 01:34 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: NC
Posts: 41
I'm gonna' get one of those HF stools, great idea!

Clark's Corvair Parts (and others I am sure) sell fuel tank "anti-squeak" strips that may be just what you need (p/n C1370): Clark's Corvair Parts - Clark's Corvair - Search

Quote:
Originally Posted by taved View Post
My Harbor Freight stool came in real handy- just hit the 'up' lever and it holds the tank in place better than a helper.

I'm also thinking of adding thin rubber strips between the tank rim and frame rails- should I do that?

Dave (#17)
bobquincy is offline  
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
I ended up getting a roll of this 1/16" thick rubber via Amazon Prime- same day delivery.

I have yet to drop the tank and give it a go.

Dave
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0998.JPG (111.0 KB, 19 views)
taved is offline  
post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2017, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
Yay- some back-ordered stuff came in today- namely my front lower and rear upper/lower arms.

Also the wiring harness, correct dash panel for Autometer gauges and the certificate of origin/nameplate.

Now I really get moving.

Side-pipes and seats are all that is missing.

Dave
Attached Images
File Type: jpg backorder.jpg (206.3 KB, 30 views)
taved is offline  
post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-08-2017, 05:09 AM
Member
 
mjazzka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 52
Getting a quick start, keep it up!

Michael
Coupe #675

10/14/14 Coupe Ordered - 1/29/14 Coupe Delivered

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
mjazzka is offline  
post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 30
Trial-fit of steering rack.

Removed the original mount bushings and installed those from FFR.

There are two mount positions on each side of the car's frame- high and low.

Does it matter which ones are used?

It seems like the higher ones will giver better clearance between the rack and the frame.

Thanks,
Dave
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0136 (800x600).jpg (53.5 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0135 (800x600).jpg (68.1 KB, 14 views)
taved is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.