Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal. - Page 2 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

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post #31 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's build journal.

Some updates on the build. I found a few bits missing from my delivery and they are on the way: front spindles and center hubs. Also some Koni snap rings.

Missing those parts I went on to the rear IRS assembly (note there are no instructions for this so it took awhile to sort out what goes where... I'm just a YouTube mechanic so need a little extra help figuring this stuff out)

The front and fear went together pretty well. At first, though I had to mill out my forward diff mounts a bit. Just a few thousands with a Dremel to get the hardware in the holes.



Used cargo straps and floor jack to put in the diff



So easy a child can do it!!!



The real head scratcher this week was the rear spindle.

I't didn't fit and I spent two days trying to figure out what I did wrong





It turns out I just didn't know that the spindle needed to be pretty heavily modified by chopping off the upper control arm mount and drilling out a new one







So there you go. Tony from FFR emailed me what needed done and has sent the manual for a mk4 roadster which will help with further snafus maybe until the gen 3 manual comes out in a few months. (I hope to be well along by then)

I hope to be suspension complete when my spindles come in a few days. Until then I'll work on steering and brake buildup. (Well also finishing up the rear IRS.)


Last edited by SurfDog57; 03-20-2017 at 09:53 PM.
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post #32 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Mounted up and rough aligned post modification


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post #33 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Wired up my rotors with some aircraft grade safety wires
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post #34 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 02:46 AM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's build journal.

Well, I Hit a few snags finishing up the rear end:



I forgot to lock-tight the rotors so had to tear them down and build them up again. Actually I didn't mind, as my safety wire job was much better the second time. I don't want to talk about the broken rotor bolt, suffice it to say my drill press saved the day again!



Today's lesson, Never use an impact gun to speed up a process. Its all about the journey...



Today's head scratch-er...

Q: Why don't the lug nuts fit the rear hub studs.

Answer: Because you need to replace them with the studs you thought went up on the front.



So, I banged them out and now the rear end is ready for brake lines.



BTW those willwoods look very sweet!!

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post #35 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfDog57 View Post


Today's head scratch-er...

Q: Why don't the lug nuts fit the rear hub studs.

Answer: Because you need to replace them with the studs you thought went up on the front.



So, I banged them out and now the rear end is ready for brake lines.



BTW those willwoods look very sweet!!

Don't you hate it when you create more work for yourself!!

The brakes do look good!

John
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post #36 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.



Steering rack and column is on! Next step .., pedal box!!

I used the Lower steering rack mounting points to help the column geometry.

BTW I initially used the lower shock tower mounts to raise ride height for initial clearance testing. I'll probably lower them once I hit the track.

I notice that my Koni coil overs are mounted upside down from the way other guys are doing it.

I guess I'll flip them over (to make the adjustment ring easier to access??). That seems odd, but if it's good enough for Tony at FFR its good enough for me.

Last edited by SurfDog57; 03-27-2017 at 10:28 PM.
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post #37 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

Having just installed the front willwood brakes here are a few notes

1.they are the best brakes you can get for a 12 inch rotor (fits a 17 inch wheel)

However... if you plan to change your front pads often (as I do) do not get these rotors. The pad change process is terrible. (The backs are fine). If you are going to track your coupe get 14 inch rotors (require a 18 inch rim) and use a caliper that you can change the pads on without having to remove the entire caliper. (i.e. just slide them out the front)



Brake changes are going to be time consuming and frustrating on this caliper. Also I've already ordered some pin retaining spring clips as these one are placed maddeningly around back and just can't wait to jump off the pliers and go for a little fly. (This happened assembling them ON THE BENCH. I expect it will be much worse at the track. (Well the finding the clip part anyway)

Last edited by SurfDog57; 03-27-2017 at 08:41 PM.
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post #38 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Jay at FFR just confirmed that I have the wrong gauge set (white gauges). He is helpful sending out the proper gauges for my build.

Here's a few the ones I have on hand


The ones coming are black, but more critically the speedo goes to 180 (120 is a bit low for my build) and the tack to 8k. (Instead of a too low 7k)

My self imposed redline will be 7800rpm on my dry sumped a52xs motor (Aviaid dry sump)

I also have begun a preorder on the front and rear aero they used in the snap on build. I think the downforce in the rear will really help get power down on my light build and the front aero should help keep the from planted instead of "floaty" at speed.

The rear spoiler is off the GTM with custom mounts I'll weld on myself.

Should come out about like this




I'm leaving off the upper dive planes as I suspect they will cause stress issues on my removable nose aero.
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post #39 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 02:06 AM
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Just a quick thought, I believe you have stock mufflers on the car and for the motor and the use you're going to have for the car, you're going to want to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust. I did and I probably gained 50 horsepower on a 392 Ford Motorsport crate motor.


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post #40 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanCobra View Post
Just a quick thought, I believe you have stock mufflers on the car and for the motor and the use you're going to have for the car, you're going to want to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust. I did and I probably gained 50 horsepower on a 392 Ford Motorsport crate motor.


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I have my exhaust manifolds but the FFR gang is still putting together my exhaust for the a52xs. They will be Dual side pipes. I think is a basic dual glass pack style exhaust. Hopefully they do the math and tune the length properly. (I am confident they will). It will probably be difficult to find aftermarket side pipes to fit. (I of course could be totally wrong about that though)

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post #41 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 04:48 AM
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Are used a couple of two and quarter inch magna flow glass packs, I believe 26 or 30 inches long I forget. Sounds like you're on the right track.


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post #42 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Wing, brackets and mounts, and the front aero and carbon dive plane order is in. Also I ordered the front bump steer kit (mostly to make toe adjustments easier). Somehow I forgot too order away bars so they are also on the way.

My panels are off to powder coat (shark grey) and my wife says the broken brake rotors bolt has arrived via ups.

It's feeling like Xmas around here.

I'm considering putting in a fuel cell but don't know if it's worth the added expense. Any thoughts out there???
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post #43 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

I just spoke with Mark the traveling builder who just finished up most of the John George gen 3 coupe. He is a very helpful and nice guy.

He gave me some good input for my build. Most notably get power steering for the track. He could hardly be more credible so I'm going to do just that. He has listed all the parts for the John George car and likes the setup they used for track use.

He also advised me to pull apart all my suspension bushings and lube them up. Grrrrr but okay. (Geez)

He has advised against powdercoat of my panels. He said it won't adhere long on floorboards etc.

He advised rivnuts on the tranny panels, which I was planning anyhow but it's good to have concurrence

He recommends some engine panel trimming and body trim around the driver seat.

He mentioned some tranny trimming but my tranny is not a TKO 600 so far lol have to see if his advice apply to my T56.

We discussed reinforcement of the rear spoiler.

All in all I'm a bit "firehosed" but great input.

I need to put these guys on speed dial!!!
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post #44 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately my steering rack is not set up for power....

So out it comes!

I'm sourcing a new one and think I'll go with the FFR setup.
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post #45 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered a rivnut kit (for selected removable panels on tranny tunnel and Engeneer bay)

Ordered the FFR power steering setup for coyote motor

Shipped my 17 inch halo brand rims back to swap out for 18s. (Which will fit my inevitable brake upgrade to 14 or 15 inch rotors. )
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post #46 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Considering upgrade to this in front
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post #47 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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went with these brakes for the front

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w.../model/mustang

14 inch rotors should fit nicely in my 18 inch race rims and the 18 replica halibrands.

As an added bonus they are serviceable (new pads) without having to pull off the calipers.
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post #48 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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I heard from a source VERY high up at ford that the A52xs will be released on June!!!!! That's great news and almost perfect timing for my build
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post #49 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Surfdog57's Gen 3 (#12) build journal.

Here is the full scoop on the motor straight from Mike Delahanty from Ford. (I think he runs the crate motor division)

He describes the motor like this...

Maximum Coyote Crate - 570+ Horsepower


* 5.2L - 317 cubic inches
* 12.0:1 compression ratio (nominal)
* Ford Performance 5.2L GT350 aluminum block
* Mahle hard anodized forged pistons with Graphal low friction coating
* Manley H-beam connecting rods with ARP2000 bolts
* Lightweight aluminum cylinder block features cross-bolted main bearing caps
* Ford Racing Camshafts Camshaft kit - M-6550-M52
* Ford Racing M-6675-M50BR 12 quart rear sump oil pan features optimized oil drain back and windage tray to control oil and improve high-rpm performance
* Ford Racing M-6600-50CJ High Performance oil pump with billet steel gears
* Ford Racing M-9424-M50CJ Cobra Jet tuned intake manifold
* Ford Racing M-9926-CJ65 dual bore throttle body
* Ford Racing M-9593-LU47 47 lb. fuel injectors
* Ford Performance GT350 fully CNC ported aluminum heads
* Ford Racing M-12A227-CJ13 high RPM pulse ring
* Ford Racing M-8600-M50BALT alternator and mount kit
* Ford Racing M-6P067-M50BK black coil covers
* Ford Racing M-12405-M50 heat range zero (0) spark plugs
* Ford Racing M-6731-FL820 oil filter

Also, Final price is not set, but estimated to be $17000-$18000

Currently planed be released in June this year!!!!!!!

No flat plane crank but I think this crate will make more power than the gt350 flat plane offering. (570ish up from 530 or so). Maybe not so sweet in the exhaust note but still 570 from a 5.2!!!!!!!

I am holding off on my gen 3 build awaiting this awesome motor!!!!!!

The ford performance sales guys have repeatedly confirmed this info by telling me "mid summer" as their best guess.

Also in unrelated news I'm packing up my panels for powdercoat today!
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post #50 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Dropped of all the panels for powdercoat. (First made a ton of install notes and numbered them with washers).
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post #51 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 08:13 PM
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[QUOTE=SurfDog57;5684329]
No flat plane crank but I think this crate will make more power than the gt350 flat plane offering. (570ish up from 530 or so). [QUOTE]

and a few less LBS. in the coupe!!

John
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First go kart Sept 19 2013


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post #52 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Went to factory five to tour the facility and speak with the team.

Everyone was super kind and accommodating and made me feel like a real part of the FFR family. I was super impressed.

Jim the development lead spent a TON of time helping me sort through some track focused build details and Tony was very helpful pointing out some common construction snags. (He's built dozens and dozens of these things). Dave gave me some perspective on how my Gen 3 fits into the continuing development of their product line and poured fuel on the fire of my enthusiasm for this project, and the rest of the team dropped everything to answer my many many questions as I worked my way around the shop.

What a great team they have there. I'm very glad I made the trip to stop in.

Here I am dreaming of things to come in The Snap on car.
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post #53 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-24-2017, 11:36 PM
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Sounds like a great visit.
Should've just drove that home!

John

Building when I can, sigh....


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First start Sept. 18 2013
First go kart Sept 19 2013


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post #54 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like a great visit.

Should've just drove that home!



John


I definitely would have made record time!!
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post #55 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Power steering rack is in (manual rack on the shelf)
Bump steer kit (steering rod toe link ends) are in. (I had to drill out the steering holes on the spindle end)
After looking at the FFR car, I have figured out how the sway bars go on and that is next up on the build plan.

(body panels are all still out getting powder coated)

The wheel sourcing saga continues. I'm still trying to find a good lightweight set of (2)18x11s and (2)18x 12s with offsets that will work on the track. Hoosier A7 or R7s maybe?
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post #56 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Does anybody else think this front sway setup looks wonky?? It seems like there is a lot of stress and play built into these spacers...

Opinions?

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post #57 of 88 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I just spoke with Dan at Factory Five and he said the design is correct and that there is no worries with slop or fatigue on that linkage. Based on that, I will run it as designed but will be checking it frequently during my initial track shakedown runs. If it holds up to the first few beatings on the track it will probably last a long time. I get a LOT of chassis movement out there so we will see.

I have tremendous faith in the guys at FFR to design a stout suspension setup, so I should probably just have a little more faith in that bolt and spacer.
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post #58 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Zip tied my stub boots for high speed durability
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post #59 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Maybe the FRR one was on wonky. I did mine like this (front swaybar)


It looks waaay better like this I think
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post #60 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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All my panels and unfinished metal bits are back from powdercoat
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