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Old 10-25-2012, 07:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Another side pipe question(s)

Was trying to mount my exhaust today and seemed to have screwed it up. Using the clamps provided, they give you little to no room to tighten them up as they are right there at the body exhaust cut out. The pipes are too long as they are and so I cut a couple of inches off the end that mates to the headers. Then in a flash of stupidity I thought I could do away with those clamps and slide the exhaust over the headers. Took it out to have the pipe flared and it split the pipe. Now I can't even mount it with the provided clamps as I opened it too large. Likely will have to contact F5 to get a replacement driver side muffler set up.

In retrospect it looks like I should have trimmed the headers rather than the mufflers. It would allow those clamps to be inside the engine compartment and provide a cleaner look. Does that make sense?

I would appreciate any help and good photo's from those who have already completed this stage of the build to help me figure this out. To those who respond, thanks a million and I really mean that. John.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 70gtvert View Post
In retrospect it looks like I should have trimmed the headers rather than the mufflers. It would allow those clamps to be inside the engine compartment and provide a cleaner look.
Bingo!!

But don't feel too bad. I had one extra driver side exhaust and cut it down past the point of no return until discovering my mistake.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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pipes

Anything can be fixed with a welder or torch.

The Nut
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have unused side pipes that will not be needed, and I would be willing to seperate if you need only the Driers side. Let me know if you are interested.
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Cool

John, the side pipes do slide over the headers. I had to have mine expanded a little too. I was lucky in that they didn't split.

I trimmed the passenger side header about an inch and a half; my driver's side didn't need trimming. I just used a coping saw with a blade that said it was for metal. Cut the pipes square and both to the same length. You want the headers to slide in at least a couple of inches into the side pipes.

I used Permatex exhaust and tailpipe sealant. Be very generous with this stuff or you'll be fighting exhaust leaks later. I'd also recommend waiting to use the Permatex until you're ready to leave the pipes on. Heating the pipes cures the Permatex, and I'd be worried that it wouldn't cure properly if it sat for long before being heated. I just let the car idle for 25 minutes to cure mine.

The clamps will cover the side pipes. Remove all of the hardware and you can even slip the clamps over the pipes after you have them in place. This scratches up the finish on the headers, though.

Once the pipes are on and the clamps are in position, crank those bolts on tight!

I put half a dozen pictures of the clamps and pipes here: Electrical and Plumbing - a set on Flickr

Hope that helps!

Dan
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Shawnski, sent you a PM. Dan, those exhaust mounting sleeves are in your engine compartment. My headers stick outside the body by a inch or so, so my sleeves would be right smack dab in the middle of the body opening. Did your headers end inside the body? That is what I am thinking I have to do, cut mine so that all the sleeves are inside the body. John
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Cool

I'd agree that the desirable situation is to have the clamps inside the body. It's already a PITA to assemble and tighten them with the Permatex goo all over the place.

My headers stick out just a little.

Let the side pipe position tell you how much to remove. You want to tuck the pipes into the body-side recess, then pull them forward a little bit (an inch or so). from there, any bit of the header that won't fit inside the side pipe needs to go. Within reason, of course.

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Old 10-26-2012, 02:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 70gtvert View Post
Shawnski, sent you a PM. Dan, those exhaust mounting sleeves are in your engine compartment. My headers stick outside the body by a inch or so, so my sleeves would be right smack dab in the middle of the body opening. Did your headers end inside the body? That is what I am thinking I have to do, cut mine so that all the sleeves are inside the body. John
If his deal falls though, I have a set of side pipes I'm not using as well.

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Old 10-26-2012, 02:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Times 2 what Dan said. My clamps are on the inside, I trimmed my headers on the passenger side a couple of times. Be careful with the trimming of the headers...cut, check, cut, check...remember as you shorten the headers it moves the exhaust in closer to the body.

Since you messed up the exhaust can't you just cut off the bad pipe and weld on a new one?
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Since you messed up the exhaust can't you just cut off the bad pipe and weld on a new one?
I tried that after, the curve has to be very precise. Without having the car there he "guesstimated" how the pipe was and it does not line up. On top of that the welding is starting to look ratty. Would just as soon start on a fresh canvas if you know what I mean.

So if I have this straight I can flare the ends of the pipes without having to trim them (which is why mine split, I cut it back to where the flare was taking place were the 2 walls of pipe were welded together). Then only as a last resort, careful trimming of the header as needed. Right? Thanks John.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yep, you've got it right.
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ouch, but I feel your pain.

My side pipes don not even line up very well with the header pipes. It takes an act of god and some coaxing with a soft hammer and elbow grease to get the side pipes slipped over the header tubes.

I would like to see the Jig that hooker headers is using to align these pipes.

Looking forward to some torch heat and steam pipe as a leaver to line them up a bit. Just a little coaxing, that's all.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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John, you have it right. I expanded the exhaust pipes a little at a time (3 trips to the muffler shop) before I was able to get them all the way on. I spent a lot of time messing with the passenger side...not only a tight fit but none of the pipes are parallel. They are off just enough to make it impossible to get them on without a lot of work. I also spent time trying to get the headers to line up. First with a long bar (didn't work) and finely using wood wedges at the end of the headers to spread the pipes a little (to match the exhaust pipes) and a clamp back at the bend to pull them closer. I only cut the headers, not the exhaust.

I 'd say go work on the driver side while you are waiting for the new passenger side pipes. I had to expand them as well plus cut some of the header to get them to tuck in along the side.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting this question, although I am not at the exhaust stage yet, my headers just came in, and I wondered if the splice/clips are correct. I wondered about this because I have seen other header to side pipe connections with a flange connection, not the in-line splice.

Dan and Chris thanks for your image libraries - they help a lot!

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Old 11-19-2012, 04:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Wayne i believe what you have is correct, I believe all coupes are sent this way. If you have seen a coupe with a different set up it is custom.

There is a member names Rich A that has a really nice muffle set up. I plan on coping his setup minus the cats he had to use. I will see if i can find the thread that i saw the pictures in.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I have a flange but it's because I am using a modular and have the modular roadster j pipes
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