Since finding out my axles are too long, I tried to start removing the rear diff cover. When I put it on I used the blue RTV sealant. I removed all the bolts but I can't get it off. I tried wedging a screw driver and tap it with a hammer, breaker bar, a round punch on the rear diff cover at the 4 wedge reliefs. It does not want to come off. All I'm achieving is damage to the diff cover. Is there another way (heat perhaps) that I'm missing??
Thanks,
John
__________________
Building when I can, sigh....
Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering.
I've had good luck using very thin putty knives in the past, just something very thin to cut through the silicone and separate the cover from the diff housing. Be careful that you don't bend the flange on the pan, can lead to leaks after re-installation.
Putty knives are good to try. Also see if you can slice some of the rtv with a box cutter and a fresh blade. The really fun part is at some point, when you break the seal, you will get drenched with diff fluid!
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Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
Not just diff fluid... But the worst smelling fluid in the house - I can't believe how long the oil/ friction modifier smell lingered in my garage... Get some fans ready and good luck
Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
__________________
FFR 7819, MARK IV, 408 Engine, TKO 600 mid shift, Holley 750 DP, IRS, FFR Halibrand wheels , Dual chrome roll bars / bumpers / Polished exhaust, Heater, Cobra seats, 245/45 & 315/35
Received 8 JUN 2012
Roller 20 JUL 2012
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Proud supporter of Forte Parts Connection, Breeze Automotive, Tangent Technologies, FFMETAL
Not just diff fluid... But the worst smelling fluid in the house - I can't believe how long the oil/ friction modifier smell lingered in my garage... Get some fans ready and good luck
__________________
Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
Also a thumbs up on the putty knife. Also helps if you'll sharpen the edge a little too.
Paul
__________________
FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Very common for these to stick. X2 on the putty knife, just start at the top and don't force it to much, wiggle it back and forth as you cut. Go from the top down on both sides as far as you can and then take a small screw driver and tap it into the gap as high as possible on both sides and once it starts to come loose work your way down. Doing it this way ensures that if you have a slight bend it is high on the cover and not near the bottom. These things often pop loose so get ready for the smelly grease bath. I would recommend screwing in a few bolts on the top and bottom part way in to control the greese bath.
PS Get ready for the wife to yell at you when you go back to the house because this stuff really stinks, every time I mess with diff lube I get the "Take your work clothes off and put them in the work clothes pile and I will wash them"
CB
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