After a 2+ years of bodywork on my Coupe, its getting a pro application of primer sealer and 2-stage acrylic ureathane (Summit Racing Carbon Fiber) next week. Woo hoo! It is a good feeling to finally shed a major portion of that straight jacket!
My OCD friend who was instramental (his garage) in the majority of body work, wants to know if anyone out there has experienced cracking around the body mount holes?
Since there is a total of 20 mounting locations (not including the hood), plus the sills rests on the frame, I have not heard nor think its an issue. However that is my question for the day.
No problems with the body mount holes here. I taped over mine before re-drilling after paint to clear out the holes.
Make sure that the hood completely clears the U-bolts for the hood latches. If you ever drop the hood, you don't want to hit those on the way down. Don't ask...
Also, make sure you have enough room around the exhaust openings. If it's marginal, it's better to make a little room now than after it's painted.
Finally, watch the doors very carefully when you re-hang them after paint. Things settle and need re-adjusting after the first few dozen drives, and you don't want the first clue to be that the door opening on the body suddenly needs touching up. Again, don't ask...
Good luck with the paint job! Let's see those pics before the paint is dry!!
Body looks great! Your friend's OCD really shows. I looked up your choice of paint color. Very nice, I look forward to seeing it.
__________________
“Debugging is twice as hard as writing the code in the first place.
Therefore, if you write the code as cleverly as possible, you are, by
definition, not smart enough to debug it.” -- Brian Kernighan
Hi,
I hope you did at least 3/16" door gaps as once there is primer and paint that gap decreases and the fit is easier to rub paint.
Good luck,
Perry.
__________________
Started Dec 1/07 and on the road Sept /09.
Candy blue with metalic silver stripes,clearcoat wetsanded to 2000 grit.
331 Stroker,"CNC" Keith Craft Brodix heads, HP=ALOT, tremec 5 speed, 3.73 Traction Lock, 4 wheel power disc brakes. Koni coilovers, A/C, Glass Hatch, carpet, Kirkey seats, Leather Wheel,180 mph reverse speedo, Sony system,18" cobra wheels, Eagle F1 tires, single Magnaflow exhaust with heat shields.
Twin Turbos are installed:) HP=ALOT + 60% more.
Looks great Shawn. The only place where I found a small crack was inside inner lip of the left-rear wheel well, basically around the edge from the door sill. It's very small, and happened during the initial mounting of the body.
Hey, from your photo, it looks like you've cut out the hood hump. What are your plans for that?
Cheers,
John
__________________
Coupe 418; Ford Racing 302, Cobra discs, Whitby SAI, Levy 5-link, Koni kit
"We do these things not because they are easy, but because they are hard....." - JFK
Make sure that the hood completely clears the U-bolts for the hood latches. If you ever drop the hood, you don't want to hit those on the way down. Don't ask...
Finally, watch the doors very carefully when you re-hang them after paint. Things settle and need re-adjusting after the first few dozen drives, and you don't want the first clue to be that the door opening on the body suddenly needs touching up. Again, don't ask...
Dan, I suspected that hood drop may end up hitting those U-bolts and cut the flat area under the hood that would hit it back enough that it clears it if the hood is accidentally knocked closed. Hope you didn't suffer too much damage.
I'm going to paint mine differently. Painting anything with metallic in it is hard to do correctly when everything is apart. Going one direction on the doors and a different direction (when laying down the paint) on say the body or hood can cause a difference in appearance that is very noticeable once all is put back together. I will take it apart, paint the areas you cannot hit while it is together, then put it back together. That way I can do the outside so that all passes of the spray gun go the same way and with the same amount of paint applied keeping the look homogenized. Just my 2 cents worth. John
__________________
“Debugging is twice as hard as writing the code in the first place.
Therefore, if you write the code as cleverly as possible, you are, by
definition, not smart enough to debug it.” -- Brian Kernighan
This is the first I have seen my paint since I was away on biz last week. Now I need to bring the chassis back over, mount the body and hood so it can be wet sanded and buffed out.
The color is just what I had in mind; contrasted against the red frame, and gold center FR500 wheels.
The paint color and results look great and can't wait to see it all assembled.
Would you mind sharing the specifics of the primer/sealer, base coat and gloss that was used? I'm assuming he used the 2 stage paint with gloss and a dark gray or black sealer. Hoping it was all Summit products and if so, it is encouraging to see such great results with affordable paint. How many coats were applied? I'm hoping to paint my coupe next year and would love a similar or the same color. Did he have any problems with the metallic distribution on the large panels?
Thanks and hope it all comes together. It's looking like a great build so far!
The paint color and results look great and can't wait to see it all assembled.
Would you mind sharing the specifics of the primer/sealer, base coat and gloss that was used? I'm assuming he used the 2 stage paint with gloss and a dark gray or black sealer. Hoping it was all Summit products and if so, it is encouraging to see such great results with affordable paint. How many coats were applied? I'm hoping to paint my coupe next year and would love a similar or the same color. Did he have any problems with the metallic distribution on the large panels?
Thanks and hope it all comes together. It's looking like a great build so far!
Fred
My painter was experienced enough to lay it out evenly so the Metallic http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...ints-finishing looks consistent. Essentially, the car has 2 coats of urethane primer/filler with block sanding between coats, 1 coat primer sealer, 1 base coat paint, and 1 clear coat. The better you prep the body in terms of filling pin holes and smoothing the body the better your finish. It also critical that you use compatible products along the way.
You really cannot have enough filler/primer applications in order for fiberglass to emulate metal smoothness. At least 2 primer/filler applications seems to be the least that you will want to do.
Very tedious DIY job, but I learned alot and appreciate the experience. Having help from someone that knows what they are doing is critical, otherwise I would have farmed out the entire body/door/hood fitment prep work (probobly a $10k job - before paint).
Last edited by Shawnski; 10-27-2012 at 02:04 PM..
Reason: spelling
Body/doors/hood on chassis just prior to bringing it back to my garage. The FR500 wheels will go in for media blasting (spokes/hub) and powder coated Gold tone.
The underside of the hood, rockers, and quarters are also body color/clear coat. We broke it down via DA, however its not anywhere near as smooth as Russ Thompson's underhood.
Body/doors/hood on chassis just prior to bringing it back to my garage. The FR500 wheels will go in for media blasting (spokes/hub) and powder coated Gold tone.
The underside of the hood, rockers, and quarters are also body color/clear coat. We broke it down via DA, however its not anywhere near as smooth as Russ Thompson's underhood.
I like the wheels. I was looking at the same ones. Are you using any spacers?? Paint looks great!
__________________
MK4 delivery 12/17/11
Build thread: HERE
Epic First start video HERE
427w ford racing, stainless headers, 3link, tko600, 3.55 gears, Jim Inglese weber intake system and a custom paint job from Jeff Miller!
Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
Build thread: HERE
347 w. stack injection, IRS, Levy arms, Levy front and rear brakes
Welcome to FFCars! The
representations expressed are the representations and opinions of
the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the
opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website
has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members
and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any
purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the
Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five
Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to
post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is
owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages
posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these
messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason
whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your
messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with
respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s).
Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory
Five.
I looked up your choice of paint color. Very nice, I look forward to seeing it.
Linear Mode
