Is anyone else having solenoid issues. I have had three stick on. The first one was the one that came with the kit and stuck after about the sixth or seventh time I started the engine.
The second was whetever O'Reily sells and lasted for about five hundred miles. I installed A battery cut off on the dash after this one.
The third is A Motorcraft it lasted A thousand miles and stuck. On this one every thing was stone cold in the garage, one light tap with A hammer and it freed up.
I mounted the solenoid behind the engine on the lower square tube and I have an air scoop to direct fresh air to the area so I dont think it's A heat issue but....
Chaz...
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Batteries not included / some assembly required
Is the solenoid well grounded, where it is mounted to the frame? IE powder coat ground off at mounting screws? You need a good ground for them to operate properly..
Need help finishing your project we can help here or at your shop.
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FFR coupe 3617CP 331 Stack EFI T-5 IRS Cobra brakes, AC/heat.
Both cars by NRC, we can build (and have built) any FFR product.
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I had the same problem and bought a powermaster. Hard wired it and never had another problem.
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Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
I think that the best solution is to get a starter w/ a solenoid and wire it this way per Fords instructions for updating an older Mustang. Click on the Ministarter link Instruction Sheets - Ford Racing Performance Parts
I don't like getting rid of the firewall solenoid unless you use a starter relay in it's place. Otherwise you are running all the current needed to actuate the solenoid through the ignition switch.
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
On the cash flow side, the newer starters run about $100 more, but you get what you pay for. The permanent magnet starters do a lot better job, progress marches on.
I got a rebuilt starter with solenoid ('94 302 Mustang) from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $99. New were $119. Works great. When I checked with Ron Francis about which starter he recommend it was this one. He also made the comment that he didn't understand why FFR designed the upgraded electrical system with the remote starter solenoid...toss it out and go with the integrated starter/solenoid.
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