Is anyone else having solenoid issues. I have had three stick on. The first one was the one that came with the kit and stuck after about the sixth or seventh time I started the engine.
The second was whetever O'Reily sells and lasted for about five hundred miles. I installed A battery cut off on the dash after this one.
The third is A Motorcraft it lasted A thousand miles and stuck. On this one every thing was stone cold in the garage, one light tap with A hammer and it freed up.
I mounted the solenoid behind the engine on the lower square tube and I have an air scoop to direct fresh air to the area so I dont think it's A heat issue but....
Batteries not included / some assembly required
Need help finishing your project we can help here or at your shop.
FFR GTM #34 first GTM with working AC. 400 hp LS1 w/G50
FFR coupe 3617CP 331 Stack EFI T-5 IRS Cobra brakes, AC/heat.
Both cars by NRC, we can build (and have built) any FFR product.
We also make and sell a ton of great parts for the FFR community.
Brake kits, AC systems, #1 supplier of Team III wheels.
I think that the best solution is to get a starter w/ a solenoid and wire it this way per Fords instructions for updating an older Mustang. Click on the Ministarter link Instruction Sheets - Ford Racing Performance Parts
I don't like getting rid of the firewall solenoid unless you use a starter relay in it's place. Otherwise you are running all the current needed to actuate the solenoid through the ignition switch.
FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
I got a rebuilt starter with solenoid ('94 302 Mustang) from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $99. New were $119. Works great. When I checked with Ron Francis about which starter he recommend it was this one. He also made the comment that he didn't understand why FFR designed the upgraded electrical system with the remote starter solenoid...toss it out and go with the integrated starter/solenoid.
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