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Old 10-06-2012, 05:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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starter solenoid

Is anyone else having solenoid issues. I have had three stick on. The first one was the one that came with the kit and stuck after about the sixth or seventh time I started the engine.
The second was whetever O'Reily sells and lasted for about five hundred miles. I installed A battery cut off on the dash after this one.
The third is A Motorcraft it lasted A thousand miles and stuck. On this one every thing was stone cold in the garage, one light tap with A hammer and it freed up.
I mounted the solenoid behind the engine on the lower square tube and I have an air scoop to direct fresh air to the area so I dont think it's A heat issue but....
Chaz...
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is the solenoid well grounded, where it is mounted to the frame? IE powder coat ground off at mounting screws? You need a good ground for them to operate properly..
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yup well grounded.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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We just use the one on the starter (93), ditched all the others. HTH, Richard.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I had the same problem and bought a powermaster. Hard wired it and never had another problem.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Been telling builders for years to get rid of the solenoid. No idea why FFR and Ron Francis have you use two. Just use the one on the starter.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The starter I have does not have A solenoid. I guess I'm ....stuck... for awile.
Chaz...
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I think that the best solution is to get a starter w/ a solenoid and wire it this way per Fords instructions for updating an older Mustang. Click on the Ministarter link
Instruction Sheets - Ford Racing Performance Parts
I don't like getting rid of the firewall solenoid unless you use a starter relay in it's place. Otherwise you are running all the current needed to actuate the solenoid through the ignition switch.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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A non solenoid starter implies it's an older version. The later solenoid equipped ones have superior power and can be lighter to boot.

Goes to whether it's donor, retro, etc. Nothing morally wrong, but older Ford starters aren't all that good. High Torque Mini Starter Installation. PMGR Starter. - FordMuscle

On the cash flow side, the newer starters run about $100 more, but you get what you pay for. The permanent magnet starters do a lot better job, progress marches on.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Will any of the new mini starters work OK or at there some that are preferred and are there any to stay away from?

Thanks,

Bill Lomenick
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChazC5ZX View Post
The starter I have does not have A solenoid. I guess I'm ....stuck... for awile.
Chaz...
Thats the problem, not the solenoid. The starter is pulling so many amps, it fusing the contacts. New starter time.
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Old 10-09-2012, 02:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I got a rebuilt starter with solenoid ('94 302 Mustang) from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $99. New were $119. Works great. When I checked with Ron Francis about which starter he recommend it was this one. He also made the comment that he didn't understand why FFR designed the upgraded electrical system with the remote starter solenoid...toss it out and go with the integrated starter/solenoid.

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