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Old 08-24-2012, 03:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Wilwood pedal box clutch issues

Hi guys:

I am using the Wilwood brakes pedal box setup that comes with the complete kit. I put the pedal box together and installed it per the instructions. The problem is the clutch pedal cannot be depressed. It hits a 3/4 inch square tube on the left that runs down throught the firewall. Has anyone run into this problem?

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Old 08-24-2012, 03:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Yep. Discussed on the "other" forum. Didn't sound like there was an easy or good fix. I'd call FFR.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow. I a very disappointed that FFR has known about this problem for a long time and is continuing to ship kits that won't work. I will be calling them first thing tomorrow!

Jerry
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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IIRC the problem is the forged pedal. It's slightly thicker that the previous one. FFR did swap out the pedal for one guy. Perhaps they will do the same for you.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi guys:

Has anyone tried to use the Whitby Power Brake Mod for this problem? I realize that mod is not designed for the clutch issue but I am wondering if it could be used to create the space need for full clutch motion? Both issues are a matter of moving the frame rail. It looks like it could be reversed to put the short end toward the front of the car.

I spoke to Whitby yesterday. Their mod was built to fit the frame rails of the roadster at 3/4 inch and the Coupe frame rails are 1 inch. However, the folks at Whitby said some Coupe builder (using the mod for its intended brake mod purpose) are adding a sleeve of square tubing to make it fit correctly in the coupe.

I have ordered the part from Whitby with the intent to see if it will even come close to fitting. Wish me luck!

Jerry

Last edited by Airspeed1; 08-30-2012 at 07:37 PM..
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I know people say notch the frame, not the pedal.

But I did an experiment.

I ground down the supporting rib on one side of the pedal only, and not all the way through (which leaves about 80% of the rib cross section remaining, not to mention the meat of the pedal, plus that rib is in compression not tension) and stuck a pin though it, and held the pin in place with a giant bench vice. I stuck a piece of aluminum underneath the pedal, just above the cut. I then grabbed two full 5 gallon fuel containers, and held them while standing on the pedal, with my friend as a witness.

The pedal was extremely rigid, and did not yield.

Since the clutch pull probably never exceeds 30lb at the foot-end of the pedal (about a seventh of what I put it through) I have come to the conclusion that cutting the pedal is OK, and its super easy.

Just don't cut more than you need to.

Or, you can spend a bunch of time cutting the frame and making a work-around instead. up to you.

Without getting into statics, the pedal is so overbuilt it could probably afford to lose both sides of the back rib entirely. The weak point in the system is the clutch quadrant by far.

Just make sure, if you do grind it down, that you do NOT leave any sharp interior corners. Those are stress risers and WILL cause cracks. put radiuses on everything.

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Old 08-31-2012, 05:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Got to see pictures of that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Andrew,

Here is a second request for the pictures of your clutch pedal.

I had thought of notching the frame and welding on a piece to the back side of the 3/4" tubing that would come around the top and bottom just a bit. Kind of a shallow U shaped from the back side. I've still got to disassemble my drivers side footbox and will address the issue then.

I have also converted to Forte's hydraulic clutch system, which will be a bit easier on the pedal, so the pedal modification sounds interesting.

George
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't know if I can get a picture since my aluminum is long since in place. Ill try tonight.

The hydraulic vs non-hydraulic, other than being a little easier to push, doesn't affect the torsional stress on the cut member because it's on the other side of the pivot.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airspeed1 View Post
Hi guys:

Has anyone tried to use the Whitby Power Brake Mod for this problem? I realize that mod is not designed for the clutch issue but I am wondering if it could be used to create the space need for full clutch motion? Both issues are a matter of moving the frame rail. It looks like it could be reversed to put the short end toward the front of the car.

I spoke to Whitby yesterday. Their mod was built to fit the frame rails of the roadster at 3/4 inch and the Coupe frame rails are 1 inch. However, the folks at Whitby said some Coupe builder (using the mod for its intended brake mod purpose) are adding a sleeve of square tubing to make it fit correctly in the coupe.

I have ordered the part from Whitby with the intent to see if it will even come close to fitting. Wish me luck!

Jerry

Hi Jerry,
My roadster mod on the 3/4" tube.
Wilwood clutch pedal hits the 3/4 " frame

Tom
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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[IMG][/IMG]

Mod on my coupe with Whitby's power brake set up. Had to slightly notch the frame rail.

John
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Tom:

That is nicely done. It is simpler than the Whitby mod too. What did you cut the 3/4 tubing with?

Jerry
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hey, I just realized we are supposed to be discussing the coupe??

Sorry, but I posted my thoughts regarding the roadster.

I guess the coupe has the same problem as the roadster?

George
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The Coupe and the Roadster both have the Wilwood clutch pedal issue.

Jerry
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