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Old 06-17-2012, 03:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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slow start when hot

My coupe has a modified 347 (10.5:1 Cr) with 4 webers. The battery is in front grounded to the frame and I also have a ground wire from the starter to the frame. When I first installed it I used a rebuilt stock Ford starter. Worked fine untill I noticed that when I tried to restart it within a couple of munites after turning it off is would turn over real slow, but would start after several grunts. Figured it was time to buy a hi-torque mini started.

Installed the mini starter and it worked fine for a while, then again it started cranking slowly when trying to start hot. Cleaned all the connections and again this seamed to help for a while.

I then searched the FFR web site for "Hard Starting" and found a lot of suggestions to fix my problem: Mini starter -- have already, Heat Blanket -- don't want. Then I found two fellows that said changing all the battery cables from the #4 that FFR suplied to #2 cables, which are bigger, would help. After spending about $35 for new cables a connectors I installed them.

I noticed right away that the starter was turning faster even when cold. After my first outing, when I returned home and shut the engine off, waited a munite and tried to restart. It turned over as fast as when it was cold! PROBLEM SOLVED!!
I hope this will help anyone else with this problem. Bill
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Glad to hear it worked for you!

I've been preaching the #2 battery cable sermon for years (although some members of the congregation insist on spending 2 to 3 times the money for a mini starter instead)

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Old 06-17-2012, 07:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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strange.... I went straight to 2/0 welding cable and its a short run of about 5 foot..... lol
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yup, I went thru the same ordeal and solved it the same way.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting this when you did! I'm going to be running the battery and starter cables this week and will put the 2s on right from the start.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yep basic electricity, less amperage drop with larger cable for a given length. Learned the hard way with a trunk mounted battery in the 1980's.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Howdy,

Thanks for the tip!

I'm going to start my electrical in the next couple of weeks and since
I have a trunk mounted battery will run #2 welding leads from the battery to the starter.

Paul
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Cool timing

Hi,
The large battery cable is a must but timing is more critical.
If you have a little too much initial timing' the engine will have too much 'cranking compression', different from 'static compression', and be hard to start.
On high compression engines you would put a power toggle switch switch in the distributors + wire, turn the starter on, cranking the engine then turn on the power lead and the engine fires easily.
It also doubles as a anti theft switch.
Perry.
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Howdy,

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1cobra View Post
Hi,
The large battery cable is a must but timing is more critical.
If you have a little too much initial timing' the engine will have too much 'cranking compression', different from 'static compression', and be hard to start.
On high compression engines you would put a power toggle switch switch in the distributors + wire, turn the starter on, cranking the engine then turn on the power lead and the engine fires easily.
It also doubles as a anti theft switch.
Perry.
Good idea, but what about the guys like myself that are using an EFI/EDIS coil pack ignition? I guess there must be a way to do this. Guess I need to study my wiring diagram a little more.

For anti thief I'm planning on using a remote controlled relay to kill power to the ECM while keeping power to the KAM.

Paul
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