So what's the consensus on the FFR provided Willwood pedal box? Is it worth the extra expense, or is the Mustang PB just as good? Any issues with the Willwood PB?
Agreed on the pedal box, but after installing the donor gas pedal I didn't like how notchy it felt and went with Russ Thompson's pedal. I also bought his pedal covers so all three pedals would match.
The Wilwood dual master cylinder set up as shipped with my red body Coupe I recd on Dec 22 2011 has issues with the clutch pedal hitting the side 3/4 sq. tubing . You have VERY limited clutch travel. I made a new clutch pedal and it works fine now. To keep the pedal as shipped you need to cut the frame or pedal. Like I said I made a new pedal out of 3/8 " 6061 T6. Full travel now.
The Wilwood dual master cylinder set up as shipped with my red body Coupe I recd on Dec 22 2011 has issues with the clutch pedal hitting the side 3/4 sq. tubing . You have VERY limited clutch travel. I made a new clutch pedal and it works fine now. To keep the pedal as shipped you need to cut the frame or pedal. Like I said I made a new pedal out of 3/8 " 6061 T6. Full travel now.
I chose to notch the frame or reroute the 3/4 square tubing where the clutch pedal hit. I have full travel and no issues now.
The Stock Mustang pedal box configuration on the Gen 1 Coupes:
1) The Clutch pedal would hit the 3/4" tube frame as well. (Bump Stop)
2) There is a pedal bender or floating around to bend the pedals for a better fit.
3) There is also a mod for the brake pedal. (cut notch out bend arm and re-weld) This helps move the brake pedal to the same level towards the driver as the clutch pedal & provides more travel.
So the Mustang Pedals are not perfect but you can bend, notch and re-weld steel easier than Aluminum. After the 3 Mods the Mustang pedals work great.
I don't know the exact differences between the Coupe and the Roadster, but I installed a '94 Pedal box in mine with the booster and the only mod was to the 3/4 tube to accomodate the booster and to open up the FB holes to align with the pedal box. No mods to the pedals or re-drilling. I also went with a Russ Thompson gas pedal. I don't have it running yet, but do have plenty of clearance.
What engine are you running?
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I have a Gen 1 Coupe, and I chose the Wilwood pedal setup over the Mustang.
My setup came with a mounting bracket designed for the roadster that had to be modified to fit the coupe. It works just fine. I have no issues with the pedal hitting the 3/4 frame but one of the mounting bosses on the Wilwood framework did cause me to adjust the aluminum sheet metal out about 1/8 away from the frame rail. Not a big deal as I was changing that area anyway.
Choosing either setup is just YOUR preference.
My 2 cents.
Jeff
Agreed on the pedal box, but after installing the donor gas pedal I didn't like how notchy it felt and went with Russ Thompson's pedal. I also bought his pedal covers so all three pedals would match.
If you are planning on unassisted brakes I would think you would be better off with the Willwood dual MC for the ability to better balance your system and get maximum performance. The interference issue does not seem to difficult to remedy.
The Clutch pedal at floor just rubs against the square tubing.
You can also see that after the brake pedal mod the height in relation to the clutch.
Why the brake pedal mod?
1) Longer pedal stroke.
2) More brake leverage. (manual brake mustang had the leveraged pedal design)
3) Brake pedal height in relation to clutch and throttle.
This picture before mod.
This picture is with mod and shows that the pedal can go lower to the floor before hitting the firewall. Hence more pedal stroke.
Pedal top view of leverage mod. Add new position for master push rod.
Search this forum under Forged Pedal , there are some good photos of this issue. It's m understanding that there are two types of Wilwood Pedals. The Cast and Forged pedals. The Forged being shipped on the newest Generation Coupes. The Forged is wider than the cast and this causes the contact on the frame.
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