I was looking for the overall measurement of the bare chassis. I am going to be picking up my coupe kit and was wondering if there is any chance it would fit inside a 7' X 12' (nominal) enclosed trailer? I am thinking it is very unlikely. Just looking for the length from the rear to the front metal work with the nose removed. Thanks!
PS - how about nose to tail with body as shipped (is it really 173"?) as I do have barn doors and may consider transporting with them not completely closed.
With the body on it is 13' 6" long from rear of the body to the hood mounts on the frame. This was taken with the nose/hood removed. If you tail it into the trailer the nose mounts are 31 1/4" wide so the doors could partially close.
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Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
Pile a bunch of the boxes in the nose of the trailer, then put the frame in on top on an angle and you should be able to get the doors closed... Alternatively, you could lay the chassis on it's side at a 45 degree angle and it would probably fit as well, then put the body on top of the boxes over the top of the frame...
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FFR4784CP The FIRST Type 65 Coupe with a "Falk'n Bubble"
99-122 Bright Atlantic Blue S-281 S/C Convertible
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I do not think it will fit. You are also going to get 18-20 boxes of parts as well as a windshield and rear hatch. I hauled mine home on an open car trailer 18 ft pulled with a crew cab 1 ton chevy and the back seat and bed were full of "stuff". Do a search as follows:
Go to google and enter site:ffcars.com picking up a kit or anything else you are interestd in and you should find some helpful info and a few pictures.
HTH
CB
We did 2 kits on a boat trailer with an SUV that has little space. Where there is a will there is a way. Here is how:
Before:
After:
Home safe and sound after 20 hours of driving:
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Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
Thanks for the advice guys. I am a bit concerned with the number of boxes. I have a 1/2 ton crew so it has a very short bed and also has a cap.
Mike - it certainly looks like you did your homework and knew what to expect. That is some good packing and stacking.
I believe it will all fit. The boxes for 1 kit takes up 4' x 4' x 6' (we fit 2 kit's worth on a 4x8 sheet of plywood stacked 6 ft high). That is 96 cubic feet. I would guess your truck bed has 50-60 cubic ft even with the topper. Many of the smaller boxes will fit in the hatch and drivers compartment. A few will set in the engine bay area with no hood. You can build a 12-18" high frame with 4x4s or 2x6's to set the car on inside the trailer and pack underneath with boxes. 12x7x1 is another 84 cubic ft. You have another 10-15 cu ft in the back seat of the truck. Probably another 10-15 cu ft useable inside the cabin of the Coupe. I count 150-170 cu ft of space to pack 96 cu ft worth of boxes.
Take a couple of large boxes and set them in the bed of the truck. Set the hood on top of those, put a blanket over the hood and then pile the bed full with the lighter stuff. The boxes that have the aluminum in them don't weigh much. Windshield and rear hatch gets duct taped to the car.
Take some measurements and do some math to double check. I think it is possible. I believe the main issue is will the hood fit in the bed of your truck.
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Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
Last edited by mmarshall; 03-16-2012 at 04:44 AM..
We did 2 kits on a boat trailer with an SUV that has little space. Where there is a will there is a way. Here is how:
Before:
After:
Home safe and sound after 20 hours of driving:
When I was 17yo I saw a guy play Russian Roulette with a S&W .38 Special. First 3 times worked pretty good. The fourth time didn't turn out too good but hey, 75% of the time it worked in his favor.
Borrow, rent or buy a trailer that will safely haul your kit and use a proper tow vehicle.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Paul that trailer normally hauls a 7000# boat. We had less than half that weight on it even with 2 kits. The tow vehicle is rated a 10,000 lbs and was towing less than half the rated weight. It rode very nicely although still a bit light for the dual 5000# axles.
Personally I see nothing wrong with loading a trailer or tow vehicle to within 50% of it's rated capacity.
__________________
Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
Do yourself a favor and get a hold of a flat bed trailer. Even the type that landscapers use which is only about 12 long will work. When you arrive at FFR the body and windshield is already placed on the frame along with some of the tin work. They will lay it right on the trailer for you. Bring some duct tape also to batten down the glass and nose. Some of the boxes can go inside the body once its on the trailer. Even a short bed pickup will work for the boxes. If you start taking things apart and twisting and turning things you are just making things harder for yourself. Try and keep the body and chassis together and flat no matter what you do. I don't think I would want to make a trip with the body jammed inside a trailer at angle. You may wind up doing some real damage to it. Even the boat trailer idea is ok if you make sure everything is tied down well. I don't think you would need much to get it to work.
One other thing you should be aware of is that you are most likley to be traveling on main and interstate highways. Troopers and highway patrol cops usually don't have much of a sense of humor when they see something unusual. The simple fact that carying a car on a boat trailer may be enough for them to stop you and shut you down and make you get it put on a flat bed tow rig is reason for second thought. Also building a wooden platform on a boat trailer may be a problem.
Damn Mike. Everybody is on you these days.
Knowing the engineer that you are, I'm sure this was over-engineered and more than safe for 1 long trip. (2 4x4's should be more than enuf! That rig has a small fortune in lumber and hardware )
btw, where are you hiding the roadster??!!
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The roadster was my friend Jeff's. It was also his trailer.
The 8 verticle 4x4's did not even budge when we set the Coupe on them. I had a hard time tearing the rig apart when we got home. A few of the 4x4's are still lag bolted together and would not seperate. The Coupe rode like it was welded into position. The full framed platform was also just as over-engineered. 20 hrs of driving and we never made 1 adjustment to anything.
__________________
Mike
FFR Coupe #340, 2003 LS1 350 RWHP, TKO 500, QT BH, Champ 10 QT pan, 5 Lug and AC, Cobra Disc, SAI mod, Kumho XS 315's x4 ..Licensed for 28k..Just over 30k w/race tires and many mods http://s464.photobucket.com/albums/rr2/mmarshall01/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHtx7...1&feature=plcp
Build started - 8 Apr 2008
1st Autocross - 18 Oct. 2009 XP Class
2011 and 2012 St Louis region XP Champion
OK so I ditched the 12' enclosed trailer idea and have lined up the use of an 18' open solid deck car hauler.
Now, in preparation for unloading and longer term chassis dolly would you please suggest the spacing between (front to back) the cross members supporting the 4" tubes?
You don't need anything fancy. Once off the trailer you will need a body buck more than anything else. The chassis even with the body is not that heavy. A couple of friends and 2 furniture dollys will do it. most Guys will prop the chassis up on jack stands or blocks to start the basics until its a roller.
Proper tags, lights and flags on the rear over hang and they will not stop you.
Everything tied down good and tight. The Beverly Hill Billies could haul an FFR all the way to the west coast on that boat trailer and never be stopped.
Looks good, proper packing is what its all about.
__________________ FFR1000194CP, Type 65 coupe, 302, 4 webers, TKO II, 3.55 IRS. '98 Z28, '35 Pierce Arrow, '27 DB Coupe, '27 DB 4 DR Sedan Thank You FFR and FFCARS.
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