Looks great! The headlight buckets do look good that way.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Thanks guys, I got the idea for the black buckets from the Ford GT poster I have hanging in my shop.
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#F5R1000417CP picked up 10/11/08; roller 11/05/08; 347 stroker, EFI; T-5; 3-link, 3:55; 15" Team 3 Halibrandt Wheels, 265-60 fr., 295-50 rear. Alum. heads, GT 40 tubular intake, twin T3-T4 turbos
There is a dim light at the end of the tunnel. Bodywork sux!!!!!
I may have to adopt the head light bucket treatment in my paint scheme, as I think it will compliment it niceley.
John
If you're still planning on painting your coupe white that would look great.
I might do the same thing to my Spyder even though I'm either going with blue or red.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
I was bored last night so I finished putting my transmission together, put a new rear main seal on the engine, bolted the flywheel to the engine, bolted the engine and transmission together, and put it in the chassis. First fit looks pretty good. Tonight I'll measure for the transmission mount adapter (I did the S10 mid-shift mod), pull it back out, build the adapter, separate the engine & tranny, bolt the pressure plate to the transmission, bolt it back together, drill some aluminum, pop some rivets, and drop the engine back in and tighten it down. It's fun again!
Since I'm in Anchorage I connected with RobbieD and got to visit with him and his Dad and to see their beautiful Coupe. Got a couple ideas and pointers and another shot of encouragement to jump back on the project as soon as I get back and as soon as I get the car back from DaBat.
Took the frame to the powdercoater's on Wednesday.
Called today to see if it's ready.
Wasn't. I'm going out of town so I have to wait until Thursday of next week to pick it up.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Just got back in California today (was in Alaska and Canada for 3 weeks) and had a phone message from Jeff Miller (BatMan) when I landed at SFO asking about strips...so I guess my car has paint...no pictures...
I asked on the SoCal forum for help...this long distance paint process sucks!!!!
Got my Spyder's frame back after being powdercoated.
I'm on vacation Thrusday, Friday and Monday so by the time I go back to work on Tuesday I want to have the suspension on and the engine and transmission bolted up.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Bleed and inspect brakes, suspension, steering. A friend is taking my track tires but one can pack LOTS of stuff into a Coupe. People often peer at my at track pile and wonder how it all fits.
RA is a thrilling venue. 3 long straights, lots of hills and some spooky corners. I hope the Miatas and Lotus' are quick with the point bys.
Since my last visit there: Front brake ducting, Levy rear brakes, a big boy wheel alignment and 15 track days in my car.
Covered dash top with marine vinyl.
Fabed aluminum block off plate for heater hose opening in firewall to replace go fast tape cover.
Rerouted headlight wiring thru new hole in front clip nose ribs.
Worked on PS headlight recess splash panel.
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MkIII Roadster, IRS, Levy Racing 351w Mass Flo EFI, TKO 600, Grad. Oct. 2006.
Type 65 Coupe, IRS, Levy Racing 347, HD T-5, Wilwood brakes, Grad. May 2010 (sold Aug 2012)
You have the right to life, liberty, and the pursuit of hoppiness!
I have been working on ways to correct the bump steer in the IFS on my gen 2 coupe for some time and this weekend I made a prototype steering arm that along with converting the steering rods to rod end bearings has the bump steer it less than .010” in 2” of bump and 1.5” rebound and keeps the Ackerman the same. If anyone is interested in purchasing a set let me know. I won’t have a price until I make a set of steel ones and figure out the run time.
took the car in to the highway patrol for inspection OK. then to DOR and got my vin number. but i can't get plates till DOR sends the vin tag to the HP sowhen they get the tag they will call I have to trailer the car back out to HP so THEY can put the vin plate on the car.
So after I get back home I have A message on my phone from DOR asking if I want to title it as A 65 replica or A 2012 special const
O well.
Chaz
Yesterday I finished getting the bump steer straightened out on my gen 2 coupe. The first time I checked it I was shocked to find out it had about 1 inch of toe out in 2 inches of bump. I may be a little anal about getting the bump steer the best I can but the first real race car I build was a LeGrand MK4 back in the 60’s and it was before Carroll Smith had written all his books on race car prep. The first time I took the car to Riverside and got up to about 135MPH the car started darting from side to side and I almost spun going down the straight. Believe me it was not fun. After that I made sure all my race cars had very little bump steer but I am afraid I was scarred for life. To fix the problem I made my own bump steer kit and new steering arms with more kink to them. I now have about .010” of bump steer in 2” bump and 2” of rebound. This is probably a little over kill but it makes me happy and that is the most important thing.
Yesterday I finished getting the bump steer straightened out on my gen 2 coupe. The first time I checked it I was shocked to find out it had about 1 inch of toe out in 2 inches of bump. I may be a little anal about getting the bump steer the best I can but the first real race car I build was a LeGrand MK4 back in the 60’s and it was before Carroll Smith had written all his books on race car prep. The first time I took the car to Riverside and got up to about 135MPH the car started darting from side to side and I almost spun going down the straight. Believe me it was not fun. After that I made sure all my race cars had very little bump steer but I am afraid I was scarred for life. To fix the problem I made my own bump steer kit and new steering arms with more kink to them. I now have about .010” of bump steer in 2” bump and 2” of rebound. This is probably a little over kill but it makes me happy and that is the most important thing.
Bill Lomenick
How about a little info on what you did.
You were racing at Riverside back in the 60's?
2 things.......
1.). Dang! That would have been sooooooooo cool!
2.). Dang! How old are you?
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Yaa! Racing at Riverside on the old long course was a real blast. You came onto the long back straight with a little down hill head start and then a 1 mile straight in front of you leading to a, kind of tight, 180 degree down hill turn with a boiler plate guardrail right on the outside of the track. Later they put a left hand dogleg that made the straight shorter and the turn at the end much wider and faster. My driver’s license says I am now 67 but I feel more like 37 but with a little more spending cash.
The first step was to install a Breeze 70017 Aluminum Offset Rack Mounting Kit which I adjusted the rack as low and to the passenger side as I could and then adjusted the rack to be level with the frame. I then made some horse shoe shaped shims that held the rack from moving side to side and made the inter ball joints centered between the inter pivots for the lower suspension links. My goal was to make the steering tie rod the same height and length as each other. This left the steering rack a little off center to the steering shaft gear so that the steering wheel will turn a little more one direction than the other but it is only about 1/8 of a turn different which is only 1/16 of a turn off center. I would rather have only a little bump steer than to worry if I can steer sharper to left than to the right. I made my own bump steer kit out of some stainless steel I had and rod ends from McMaster-Carr, but it looks about the same as the one sold by FFR. The manual shows the steering arms bend outward but with the manual steering rack that came with my kit that is the wrong direction, isn’t enough bend, and needs to be raised some. So after a number of attempts I found the correct position for the outer ball joint and made new steering arms out of 4140. I left enough room between the steering arm and tie rod end bearing to fit a few shims for finial adjustment and to allow enough room for the rod end to clear the steering arm at full droop. If you want to try improving your bump steer here is what actions I found corrects what problem. Checking bump steer has been covered elsewhere so I won’t go into that here.
I start with the spring and shock removed and the frame blocked up so you can raise and lower the wheel 2”. I start by raising and then lowering the wheel ½” at a time and recording how much the toe has changed.
1) If the toe changes more going up than going down you need to raise or lower the outer steering rod ball joint or you can change the height of the steering rack until the difference is close to the same. A thin shim will make a lot of difference.
2) If you get #1 close and you have toe in, in both direction the tie rod is to short and if you get toe out in both directions your tie rod is to long. You can make new steering arms like I did or you can bend the stock ones but if you bend the stock ones you will lose some Ackerman steering. Some people think that Ackerman steering isn’t that important and some do. From my experience I like as much as I can fit in within reason. You can also go to the other end and shorten or lengthen the steering rack.
I worked on mine for 3 or 4 weeks part time to get happy with the results and I am sure it is far better than it needs to be and I won’t be able to tell a difference between the way it is now and if I had only spent 1 week working on it. I may not be able to feel the difference but I know there is a difference.
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