Well today I kept busy and got to know my sheet metal brake a little better. I decided to go with a 2 (+1) piece solution to my upper shock tower and roll bar area. Not sure I like it after all but it's here to stay. Boy these things take time!
I still need to add the 3rd piece to seal it on the top.
Marc
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It's just a matter of time.
FFR Coupe # 434. Power Brakes, 347ci, Carb, 15 inch Hallibrand pin drive, SAI, 3-link
Where did you get the sliders to open and close off the fresh air?
Grizzly has them in all kinds of sizes. Here's a link..... Grizzly.com
I've almost finished all the frame mods for the passenger's side footbox for my Spyder. I guess I need to post a few pics on my build thread.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Loaded the car, well it's almost a car, on my buddies trailer and hauled it in to get all the AC hoses made and the system charged. Blows real cold. All the hoses are zip tied in place so now I need to clean that up and make a couple heat shields. I also need to make a simple drier bracket to replace the crappy one that came with the kit.
Over the week end we got some body work done and today I finnished my mechanical hood support's. The gas lift cylinder's kept pushing the hood forward and yes the bolts were tight. These don't have any pressure aginst the hood when closed. the hood shuts at ths same spot every time.
Chaz...DSC00822.jpg
Nice work and progress Chaz. It looks like you're a little ahead of me in the body work department. I'm finding it very difficult to stay motivated with the Rage...sand...Rage...sand...Rage...sand...routine, but I'm determined to be done with it in the next couple months.
I almost completed my spoiler install. I did something a little different than anything I've seen here (mostly cause this may seem like alot of work - it is). I cut the hole for inserting and fiberglassing the spoiler in place from underneath. I wasn't satisfied with losing about 1/2" on the height and I wasn't really pleased with the thinness of the original either, so I purchased a new red spoiler, cut it in half (longitudinally) and glued it on the original, sandwiching it in. It will have stainless buttonhead screws that serve only for aesthetics as the spoiler is now part of the body. It's now about 1/2" thicker than the supplied spoiler.
Yeah, I know...photos. I'll try to post some soon.
However, your spoiler is probably a lot stronger than the rest of ours. The body shop inadvertantly did mine the same way and I've been trying to figure out how to fix this before it goes to paint. What did FFR charge you for the spoiler?
I made a new bracket for the drier to replace the cheesy wrap around one that came with the drier. I'll use rivnuts and ss button head screws to mount it.
I also made a bracket to keep the hoses to the condenser in place. I lined the inside with foam rubber to keep the aluminum from cutting into the hoses.
Tomorrow I'm going make one more bracket to hold the hose from the drier to the condenser and then a couple of heat shields to protect the hoses and the drier.
Ok, said I'd post some photos. My objective was solid structural integrity with more of the original look and height/thickness. Not to mention that I avoided a really big glassing/finishing job that would have been necessary without the second spoiler.
Original spoiler with it glassed in, in the slot I cut in the body:
New, red spoiler cut, then glued and glassed onto first spoiler:
Nearing completion. The the gap is filled with the 3M HSRF - high density resin filler:
These are what I'm going to use. 2007 F-150 dash vents. I'm going to the local junk yard tomorrow to get them. eBay +/- $70. Junk Yard $10. I like the "all in one" approach to them. This way I don't need a blast gate...
What a great idea and what a dope I am!!! I have a 2004 Ford F-150 and look at these vents all the time and here I go out and buy vents from Vintage Air??? Explain that.
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Rob
FFR5372CP (chassis #146), Levy Racing Stage 4 (347ci), Levy light-weight clutch assy,Fr500's, Wilwoods, BRE mirrors, Lotsa Damplifier and Still LOUD!! :) 2nd farthest North Coupe (that I know of) http://www.ffcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=122
Got plates and insurance today (thanks to Robbin at Midwest!). I also had the windshield installed.
The to do list before we hit the road is pretty short, hoping to knock it out this weekend:
bolt on the license plate
finish trimming the rear hatch and install it
alignment
aim headlights
install headlight covers
install side mirrors
Graduation thread in a couple of weeks after a few shakedown miles!
I finished the drier bracket and added a heat shield over the headers to give some protection to the AC lines that run along the 1" tube. Not real happy with the way they came out so I think I'll do a little rework tomorrow.
I worked on getting the body ready to pull down from where it is hanging in the rafters. Hope to get some "muscle" tomorrow afternoon or Sunday and install the body. Need to cut the exhaust holes first.
You just got to respect a guy that has dual air-compressors.
geezer tom
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5.0 fairly stock EFI, T5,3 link, 355 w/torsen, A/C, threw out my P/S and when manual, copper/red, Vegas gold stripes. built to be driven.
NEW GOAL 100,000 miles on the coupe and then get a GTM ( more than 1/3 the way there )
Got a second 302HO engine, rebuilding, 30 over, balanced, Comp Cam, single turbo, low compression, custom headers, one 3" pipe per side, intercooler. Driving at 6000' I lose 18% of my HP so TURBO.
What a great idea and what a dope I am!!! I have a 2004 Ford F-150 and look at these vents all the time and here I go out and buy vents from Vintage Air??? Explain that.
Bill
Bill... I Do the same thing all the time. We have an 07 at work and that's where I got the idea. I like the way they close all the way.
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Rob
FFR5372CP (chassis #146), Levy Racing Stage 4 (347ci), Levy light-weight clutch assy,Fr500's, Wilwoods, BRE mirrors, Lotsa Damplifier and Still LOUD!! :) 2nd farthest North Coupe (that I know of) http://www.ffcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=122
I finished up installing the gas cap and fuel filler hose. I swapped out the straight hose FFR supplied for a "piece" of a Gates hose # 20611. I also installed the license plate holder and light (then removed them).
Chris, that's a radiator hose not rated for fuel. It'll probably last you years anyway, but others have cautioned against anything other than the newer ethanol-friendly fuel hoses.
DARKPT: Yea, I know. If I get up to the local West Marine I'll look and see if they have any "real" flexible fuel spec hose...otherwise I'll roll the dice with this hose...
It may not look like much, but for those that know what it takes to get to this point, it is a major milestone for me! These pics were taken at my friends house where we (mostly he) did the body-work (as time permited) since September 2010.
I did the cut outs and fitting for the front turn signals and the head lights. My hard copy manual was missing the template for the turn signals, FFR sent me a soft copy but it was also missing the template. DARKPT sent me a couple photos with a ruler for reference so I decided to go ahead and drill baby, drill. But what to my surprise, there were dimples molded into the head light opening for reference points...lined up perfectly with the photos.
I do have one question. How are you supposed to get to this screw that holds the chrome ring on the head light assembly once it is installed on the nose?
You don't unless drill an access hole under the light. Call it a drain if you want.. I just left them off and used the sping clips to hold the ring in place.
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Coupe #497 is legal!
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