Chris: Tip for the connectors on that Mini light
After you have the wire on the crimp connector, wrap the connector with heatshrink all the way down to the very end of the metal so you can only see metal when you look in the end of the heatshrink.
Trim the heatshrink flush with the metal on the end.
Grease the heatshrink on the outside.
Plug the wires into the light.
Fill the remaining area in the light socket with hot glue.
The grease should allow the wires to come out if needed, but the hardened hot glue will support everything and keep the pins from getting stressed from vibration.
Worst case, you can dig the hot glue out with a pick tool if you had to.
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Coupe #307 - 5-link, SAI mod, Levy DA Koni's, Levy bumpsteer, 6-piston Wilwood's in front, 4-piston in rear, Forte/Wilwood pedal assy, hybrid 8.8/9" rear end, VPM front bar, VPM/own design variable rear bar, and lot of other little things so far........
"Did you use ANYTHING that came with the kit???"
- The Wife
I tried to finish off my interior lights. I got these things mounted and hooked up and they both went bad. I think I might have tightened them down too much. Anyhow, now I need two more and I can't for the life of me remember where I got them. I looked at all my hard copy receipts, email receipts, searched Ebay (22,500 results from "12v interior LED" search), Google and this forum since this is where I heard about them.
Chris, are there any part numbers on the light? Might help narrow the search a bit.
As for me, since I'm in final assembly I haven't been posting much. Today, we put the wipers and the driver's side door and windows in place. Pics of that and more in this week's blog post.
Hay Chris that looks like the ones I used but I used auto body trim tape to mount them. Look on Amazon in electronics for airplane led dome light.
Chaz....
Went to the garage and lifted the hood and thought about resealing my drivers side header flange......then I remembered how much I hated doing it and fooling with these POS headers and that I had to work tonight so I put it off another day
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Complete Coupe #485
Delivery to first legal drive in one year
5/12/10-5/12/11
Belize blue pearl with Arctic White stripes
331ci, T5Z, .79 5th gear, Wilwoods, and 3 link with 3.73s
Ive been trying to locate a short in the front wiring. Bought an inexpensive tool to help locate the area. I found so far its in the running light circuit.
I was going to raise the front end to trace out the loom. I cant get my floor jack under the frame. My jack wheels are 3-1/2 inches in dia. and the frame is lower. arrrgh.
I suspect my ride height is too low.
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Coupe #307 - 5-link, SAI mod, Levy DA Koni's, Levy bumpsteer, 6-piston Wilwood's in front, 4-piston in rear, Forte/Wilwood pedal assy, hybrid 8.8/9" rear end, VPM front bar, VPM/own design variable rear bar, and lot of other little things so far........
"Did you use ANYTHING that came with the kit???"
- The Wife
I took the saddle off. The wheels are too tall.
Tomorrows another day. I ll fire it up. I wanted to do it the old fashioned way. I have the steering wheel off and the switch panel hanging.
Also I m going to have to adjust the ride height. It really is probably too low.
Meaty, I checked the manufacture and they say "12 volts DC, very low current draw (under 40 mA)" for these lights.
I think I messed them up when I screwed them down. I tried testing one today and I had the black wire on the Neg post of the battery and I inadvertently touched the chrome plastic shell against the Pos post and it lit up. So I think the positive side of the light is shorted to the chrome frame which would short to the mounting screw when installed...that's probably not real good.
Meaty, I checked the manufacture and they say "12 volts DC, very low current draw (under 40 mA)" for these lights.
I think I messed them up when I screwed them down. I tried testing one today and I had the black wire on the Neg post of the battery and I inadvertently touched the chrome plastic shell against the Pos post and it lit up. So I think the positive side of the light is shorted to the chrome frame which would short to the mounting screw when installed...that's probably not real good.
Hmm, I guess it is possible that the Circuit Board warped/cracked to the housing. Odd....Deconstructive surgery?
I got the both headlight covers on. Then went to put the windows back on the doors. Since the body didn't go back on exactly the way it came off, the doors had to be realigned. Now my windows don't fit the way they did before. It looks like the easiest way fo fix this is to cut the frames apart and reshape them. Just when you think you're almost done,you end up taking two steps backward.
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#F5R1000417CP picked up 10/11/08; roller 11/05/08; 347 stroker, EFI; T-5; 3-link, 3:55; 15" Team 3 Halibrandt Wheels, 265-60 fr., 295-50 rear. Alum. heads, GT 40 tubular intake, twin T3-T4 turbos
There is a dim light at the end of the tunnel. Bodywork sux!!!!!
I got the both headlight covers on. Then went to put the windows back on the doors. Since the body didn't go back on exactly the way it came off, the doors had to be realigned. Now my windows don't fit the way they did before. It looks like the easiest way fo fix this is to cut the frames apart and reshape them. Just when you think you're almost done,you end up taking two steps backward.
Just curious. Since there are so many realignment issues is there a reason other than a lot of taping you wouldn't just shoot the paint with he body mounted and all accessories removed
I finished up the rear interior light and put the head lights together then decided I didn't really need to cut the hole and fit them. I'll let the painter cut the hole and the fitting is straight forward. I also started on the backup light mount. Basically making a fiber glass oval tube 2" X 4" that the Mini Cooper light will mount inside. I'll cut an oval hole in the rear and glass the tube to the body. I mocked up the tube in Styrofoam and will glass in a couple layers of cloth. Once the glass is thick enough I use acetone to melt the Styrofoam and presto I have a tube. At least that is the plan.
Well, I WANTED to work on my coupe today, but I had a little problem getting in the workshop door!!! I'd be posting more, but I've been busy moving snow....and my back is sore.
Well, I WANTED to work on my coupe today, but I had a little problem getting in the workshop door!!! I'd be posting more, but I've been busy moving snow....and my back is sore.
OMG !!
I almost had a heat stroke today and it's Feburary 1st! Dang, it was warm and muggy today.
Been working 12hr shifts so I haven't work on my Spyder since Monday.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Just curious. Since there are so many realignment issues is there a reason other than a lot of taping you wouldn't just shoot the paint with he body mounted and all accessories removed
If I were to do this all over again, I would prep the inside of the body, primer and paint it and then mount it on a finished chassis, then paint it. The way mine is going, it's like starting all over. I have to repaint The door openings and edges anyway. I'm glad I did the painting myself and not wasted thousands by having a body shop paint it then have these same problems.
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#F5R1000417CP picked up 10/11/08; roller 11/05/08; 347 stroker, EFI; T-5; 3-link, 3:55; 15" Team 3 Halibrandt Wheels, 265-60 fr., 295-50 rear. Alum. heads, GT 40 tubular intake, twin T3-T4 turbos
There is a dim light at the end of the tunnel. Bodywork sux!!!!!
You should start a new thread on that light mounting...
I thought of doing something like that but I wasn't sure if The tube would prevent the body from coming off the frame...not sure if it will catch the frame as you pull the body off. I never paid attention to that clearance before.
Have you checked??
Marc
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It's just a matter of time.
FFR Coupe # 434. Power Brakes, 347ci, Carb, 15 inch Hallibrand pin drive, SAI, 3-link
I took my coupe for a drive!!!
Feb 1st and it was 61 degrees in Columbus Ohio.
Pux Phil said 6 more weeks of winter, if this is winter, I can do 6 more weeks.
Still going at the basement finishing, at the half way mark tho.
Cant wait to get back working on the coupe
Chris
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Ordered and delivered 9th of June 08, Coupe enthusiast, owner, builder and soon to be thrashing the gears. Are we there yet?
Tagged and on the road 24th of May 2011, even more fun than advertised.
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