I haven't signed anywhere yet but I think I'm going blue. That in itself is a big decision...I was planning red like Ryan_W but I have never owned a blue car...thinking Viper blue...stripe still up in the air but not going with a stark white...
So...I kind of picked a color...
Funny, when I build things I have always had an image of the final product from the very beginning. This is the first time that I haven't (because i keep changing my mind and they all look great) but now all the pieces seem to be falling in place. I even found a matching wheel to use as a rear spare for the rear trunk area.
I'll keep you posted.
Marc
__________________
It's just a matter of time.
FFR Coupe # 434. Power Brakes, 347ci, Carb, 15 inch Hallibrand pin drive, SAI, 3-link
This all started two weeks ago. I wasn't planning on getting either the bump steer kit or the offset rack bushings but the initial measurements were so far off they sent me away to get them and return. Got the both from Forte's and they look great. Thanks Mike.
Took another week to get the car back in the shop because we had rain and since I don't have all the wheel well sheet metal installed I don't want to drive when it's wet.
So now that it's a straight I'm going to put some miles on it and finish up all the little stuff.
I'm planning on having my first "official" drive today.
Paul
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FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Well...."today" was yesterday....did you take it out for a spin?
I get to go see my engine sometime next week when we will bench run it.
Saw some progress on the body today. Hope to get the roller back next week.
I made a list (a very long list) of things to do when I get it back.
Marc
Nope. I had to work until 8PM on a machine that takes a 5/8" copper rod and draws it down to a gauge size wire, usually a 12 or 14ga.
So, TODAY is the big day, maybe.
Paul
__________________
FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
Over the past couple of days I've completed the installation of my Lucas windshield wiper motor. This was super hard, requiring a recessed bracket with mounting posts in order to mount the wiper motor as far to the right as possible, in order to clear the A/C Heater Hose bulkhead fitting through the right firewall, and the A/C Heater blower/evaporator which will go just to the left of the bulkhead fitting, but still route the wiper cable as straight and smooth as possible. I put the bulkhead fitting there to look as copacetic as possible from the engine compartment side, and in order to accomodate the engine swap to my Ram Air Pontiac 400 big block.
I relocated my backup light. It was mounted down low and centered just below gas tank. I moved it inside passenger side rear wheel well just behind the kidney vent mesh. I also installed the mess. I used urethane windshield sealer...that stuff really sticks.
Worked on the IFS - and figured out how to get those pesky shims into place without grinding my knuckles. Got stuff to fit, after visiting Spider Larry this morning. I have to say, taking a time out to just talk to a fellow builder really helps.
Here's a question - Is it just me, or is the Coupe manual (Rev 3E, July 2011) showing the front spindles for the 33 Hot Rod on page 72?
Yes, I used the "PSS" spindle for the driver and the "DSS" spindle for the passenger side of the chassis. (These statements make a dyslexia guy like me crazy. But, it's KO, you know what I mean?
Mine look like this - you can see the "solid corner" on the ball joint mount for orientation - that is towards the front of the car - is this correct?:
__________________
Ordered Type 65 Coupe Complete Kit Aug 29, 2012 - The 50-50 $ale!
Standard Width IRS; Halibrand Wheels, Front 17x9, Rear 17x10.5 . . . .
Kit Arrived: Oct 9, 2012
Build Started: Oct 28, 2012
First Start: _
Go Kart: _
Paint: _
Got the rear diff cover off after a good beating, and was able to put the new axles in. Now the brake calipers fit properly (thank you Richard Oben for the great advice). Got to get the cover back on, then it's time to fill/bleed the system.
John
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Building when I can, sigh....
Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering.
Thanks Bill - So - my spindles are OK, I assume. Moving forward. . . .
-wayne
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHOTIS BILL
Kh6wz,
I haven’t made an exact count but I think around 25% of the pictures in the coupe manual are not of the coupe. It does get confusing at times.
Bill Lomenick
__________________
Ordered Type 65 Coupe Complete Kit Aug 29, 2012 - The 50-50 $ale!
Standard Width IRS; Halibrand Wheels, Front 17x9, Rear 17x10.5 . . . .
Kit Arrived: Oct 9, 2012
Build Started: Oct 28, 2012
First Start: _
Go Kart: _
Paint: _
CJBergquist, I like your idea! Hmmm, I am thinking amber turnsignals located within the cresent and wiring the OEM lights in tandum to double the brake light intensity...
Shawnski, thanks. Instead of amber turn signals behind the mesh get a 3 wire to 2 wire trailer converter.
CURT 56146 - powered 3 to 2 light tail light converter. $20.95 from Summit. Stop/Turn/Hazard all worked. This device allowed me to wire the 4 tail lights as follows. Note each light has two filaments, a high and low. The 4 lows are running lights. The 4 highs are stop and or turn lights. All 4 highs go on when the brakes are applied and NO turn signal is on. If both the turn signals and brakes are applied at the same time the 2 turn lights on the side turning flash high and the 2 stop lights on the other side shine solid high. Basically the control flashes 2 of the brake lights when the turn indicator is on. Otherwise they are solid.
__________________
FFR 4859GT 414W, Tremec TKO 5spd. IRS w/3.55 and Torsen diff. 13" dual-piston front & 12" rear disc brakes. 03 Cobra wheels, 275/40 & 315/35 tires. Possibly the only person in the world that is currently building a Spyder GT.
"A veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'"
The top corner ones are my trunk access hole covers for the rear side wall panels. The left lower pieces are finishing pieces that will frame the insertion point of the shoulder belt Y pieces on the trunk floor. The center piece is a patch that goes in the glass hatch latch area. The "Y"s are the shoulder belt fixation pieces. I chose to mount the shoulder belt like Russ Thompson did except that the lower bolt will be under the aluminum trunk floor so that the Y will just appear from the floor on an angle.
Marc
__________________
It's just a matter of time.
FFR Coupe # 434. Power Brakes, 347ci, Carb, 15 inch Hallibrand pin drive, SAI, 3-link
The top corner ones are my trunk access hole covers for the rear side wall panels. The left lower pieces are finishing pieces that will frame the insertion point of the shoulder belt Y pieces on the trunk floor. The center piece is a patch that goes in the glass hatch latch area. The "Y"s are the shoulder belt fixation pieces. I chose to mount the shoulder belt like Russ Thompson did except that the lower bolt will be under the aluminum trunk floor so that the Y will just appear from the floor on an angle.
Marc
Marc,
For safety, if you use the Y belt attaching points, make sure that the belt straps go over a support that is even with your shoulders. If you don't, then you risk spinal compression in an accident.
Marc how did you get the recess in your access panels? Those look good would like to do the same for my driver side foot box, and some in the hatch area over the gas tank.
I finished making a new front panel for the driver side foot box. The old one just had to many holes that showed to much of the frame behind the aluminium, and holes off center. Just did not look good in my opinion. So i made a new one.
Here is the new panel before putting all the needed holes in.
new and old
All the scratches won't matter since I am painting them a flat black like this.
After many months of sitting in the body shop, I'm getting my body back. I already had the nose and doors. The pieces have all been blocked and filled many, many times and all pieces are primed.
My work resumes in earnest this weekend. Hopefully by Christmas, I'll be as close to complete as I need to be.
Steve, I can't take credit for those. I cut the pieces out and took them to a local shop and they rolled the edges for me. Depending on the tool they can get different profiles. They also did one for the driver's side footbox access plate. It makes the aluminum look a little more professional. I also made a new front panel for the footbox with fewer holes...
Other Steve...I can't wait to see pictures. You must be excited! My body is currently at the shop and will hopefully have primer on soon.
Marc
__________________
It's just a matter of time.
FFR Coupe # 434. Power Brakes, 347ci, Carb, 15 inch Hallibrand pin drive, SAI, 3-link
I spent the better part of the day fitting and trimming the the side pieces of the radiator shroud to get the fit I wanted. Had to mock up new side brackets to get them to match the changes I made.
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