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Because of the way the whole nose Tilts up it would be difficult to create a tow hook. That being said I believe Dan Elam may have addressed that problem with his race coupe.
Also, I have an idea that might work but no longer have a coupe to try it on. You can e-mail me at email@example.com and we can discuss it.
CHP 342/Modified T-5/carbed w(air/tilt/cruise/remote keyless entry)/IRS/13\"brakes on F5 coupe.
We use a belt setup that comes out of the nose and attaches at the sides of the long round tubes. Unfortunately, I can confirm that the setup works great. We use out of date seat belts in a 'Y' and then use a strap to come forward. It is strong and still lets you open the hood.
The back is pretty straight-forward as well:
Just a standard tow hook attached with d-bolts.
The through-the-hood setup doesn't strike me as the way to go for a couple of reasons. First, I think they look ugly. Granted that isn't a safety consideration, but if you have a choice, why have them look bad and disrupt the visual appeal of the cars.
My biggest reservation is over how the thing works in it's intended role. At many of the tracks we just have a truck who pulls out of the mud/gravel. They typically are pulling from their tow hitches which is pretty low. In the case of a gravel setup, that means the car actually gets pulled down and into the gravel, defeating the purpose. A hook on the bottom pulls the car up and out of the gravel.
The through-the-hood tow hook does have advantages in situations where the entire car has to be lifted up, but this isn't the most common situation. In fact, most cars with conventional front tow hooks end up losing the hook if the accident is so bad that they want to lift the car up straight with a wrecker crane. Most tracks just take the 'good' end and tow the car or put it on a flat bed. It is extremely rare that they lift the entire car into the air.
We're playing with an idea to adapt the coupe setup to the spec racers and the preliminary look suggests that it will work. It is cheap, easy, unobtrusive, and if it works, it will work better.
If you need more pics on how ours attaches to the coupe, let me know.
306 Ford Racing with GT40 Heads 340HP mass flo, tremec 3550, 8.8 3.55 3 link, Koni's, I squared elec, P/S, A/C.
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You certainly hit on what was our biggest concern, but it has worked out just fine.
If you take a look at some of the pics of what guys used to race it is downright scary.
So here we have a fence that can decapitate you without losing much energy before you hit the beams for the barn. If you are fortunate enough to roll the car over, you might be merely crushed to death - all the more likely since it has the little embankment to throw a car onto it's roof if you slide off sideways.
The pic below is one my favorites: the official is standing on the track and you have a telephone pole on the side of the track! Equal opportunity danger!
Of course, the crews weren't any safer: here is the VIR front straight. Notice that there isn't a single bit of guardrail or protection from the main track to pit lane.
Even the old driver's suits used to be made of fast-burning cotton. Since the drivers were often also working on cars, that meant oil or gas-soaked into the fabric.
Sometimes the racing groups end up with junk science stuff (like requiring seat belts to be changed every two years), but for the most part track safety advances and improvements to the cars and driver safety gear has resulted in transforming automobile racing from a death-defying act to something that pretty much anyone can enjoy safely.
BTW, Don had shared with us what he was going to do for a tow hook and we obviously liked the thought and engineering, but we had been concerned about lift and were thinking we might need a front splitter (we do). We wanted to avoid the hard metal setups so that we could still use a splitter and also not have to worry (as much) about catching it in dirt or a berm during an off-track excursion. If this were a street car, we would go with something like Don's setup.
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