Side windows--beating the dead horse - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

TNcoupe · 11-30-2010, 10:00 AM

I've done a search and cant find anything. Did everyone with the black body Coupe have to trim the top lip of the door back to get the side window mounts to meet up with the inner door skin? Mine lacks a good 1/2" from touching the inner skin. I need to know before I go hacking more off the door, because I may not run side windows at all if I have to cut too much. I have the doors perfect without the windows.

Fluge · 11-30-2010, 10:49 AM

I had to trim the top lip back until the triangular mounts on the frame mounted on the inner door panel nice and flush. You will need to cut back enough so that the front frame rail can fit between the door and the body side-window recess. I think I have a 3/16 inch gap between the door edge and the lower window frame rail from front to back. I just drew a straight line along the top of the door and trimmed it in small increments so that I wouldn't over cut.

Marc

TNcoupe · 11-30-2010, 12:25 PM

Ok, that's what I was thinking, just wanted to make sure I was seeing things correctly. I couldn't make it work any other way.

xlr8or · 11-30-2010, 03:29 PM

Yep. Definitely have to cut that top edge for them to fit. Don't follow the contour of the inner door skin as the manual suggest. Cut it in a straight line so it will follow the window frame. Don't ask me how I know.

Brian Palmer · 11-30-2010, 03:35 PM

I trimmed too.

Bill Shaw · 12-01-2010, 12:22 AM

yep, what they said.

ratlifcs · 12-01-2010, 06:19 PM

I'm about to tackle this step, too, so these posts are very helpful. If anyone has pictures of the door after trimming, I would be very grateful.

Chris

N2Obusa1340 · 12-01-2010, 07:55 PM

After I trimmed both of my doors, I then also to also build up the height of the door so that the top edge sat flush with the top of the steel u channel. I will post pictures later tonight.

JohnPR · 12-20-2011, 10:01 PM

Hey guys, how much did you have to trim off the top of the door? I can't seem to find an indication in the Suggestion Manual. I don't want to over-cut.

Also, regarding the slot that needs to be cut in the body for the "1"-shaped vertical piece; did you cut this directly in the center of that area of the body, or more towards the inside or outside?

xlr8or · 12-20-2011, 10:54 PM

Try to hold the frame brackets to the inner door panel and you'll see how far off. Draw the straight line across the top of the door and trim a little at a time. Next question is "what is straight?"

Mine required more off the back of the door than the front so go a little at a time and adjust as necessary.

As for the #1 piece it needs to be inset far enough for the frame to fit inside the gap and have a piece of rubber seal on it so basically at the back of the gap if that makes sense.

trooper3164 · 12-21-2011, 01:11 AM

I trimmed the top of my door back and then used the u shaped rubber seal. I put the rubbed sticky side on the window frame and that closed up the gap.

Fluge · 12-21-2011, 01:17 AM

John

I don't want to through you off too much here...but the first picture shows the top of the "1" piece in place. The top of it is correct...flush with the upper door edge. The bottom is a little different than what others have done. I added an aluminum pillar to move the bottom of the "1" in more. I was able to get a good fit of the door window frame this way and I also used it to fix the quarter window hinge.

Russ Thompson has a few nice pictures in his album.

I trimmed very little at one time from the top of the door until I was happy with the fit.

hotrod bill · 12-21-2011, 01:37 PM

I addition to drawing a straight line notch the front 2 1/2" in about 1/32" so the metal triangle won't hold the rest of the frame away from the door. I also bent the bottom of the frame a little to match the cruve of the door top. (iI actually used some filler on the door to make the curve less. I made my door windows removable with wingnuts each and they fit good without any rubber edging.
Hope this helps, Bill

N2Obusa1340 · 12-21-2011, 01:59 PM

Just remember when you beef up this metal side window brace, that in many cases they could create severe head trauma in the event of a minor side impact. Even when strapped in, your head can come in close proximity. I designed mine to break away at the top.

Fluge · 12-21-2011, 02:08 PM

Good point but remember that depending on how you installed it the top can break away outwards or inwards and potentially impale the occupant on an inward breakaway. I padded the inside of the Window brace and covered it with black vinyl to match my headrests so the piano hinges are hidden. Your head sure is right next to it...actually, your head is right next to everything in this car.

N2Obusa1340 · 12-21-2011, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fluge

Good point but remember that depending on how you installed it the top can break away outwards or inwards and potentially impale the occupant on an inward breakaway. I padded the inside of the Window brace and covered it with black vinyl to match my headrests so the piano hinges are hidden. Your head sure is right next to it...actually, your head is right next to everything in this car.

There are several safety thing about these cars that worry me...lack of foot well crumple zones, no side impact bracing to speak of... I could go on because I'm a worrier, but the damn window brace is the one that scares me the most. Just something to consider. On a bike there is none of this stuff to worry about.

Spaceclam · 12-21-2011, 05:53 PM

I replaced mine with a foam-core fiberglass piece that matches the curves of the car. It doesn't weigh anything.

JohnPR · 12-22-2011, 04:57 AM

Thanks for all the responses guys - much appreciated. Marc, thanks for the details & pics too.

JohnPR · 12-29-2011, 09:32 PM

OH MY GOD!!!! Spent hours today trying to fit/mount the driver side window. How BAD is that design!! A lot of things in this car are a pretty poor fit, but these windows take the cake. First off, the rear mount is farther back than the inner door panel - basically sitting half in open air, so the back bolts have nothing to bolt to (yes, frame is as far forward as it can go). Secondly, the part of the inner door panel that does touch the mount is so far inboard that the frame ends up farther in than the "1" piece. Marc, now I know why you added those pieces in your pics!

Also, if I was to bolt the mounts directly onto the inner door panel, the angle of the window frame ends up being a lot more vertical than the body - the top of the window would be inches away from the body. As an added bonus, the bottom rear corner of the frame hits the top edge of the body when I'm closing the door, forcing the door up as it closes.

I've read about poor-fitting driver doors, and mine was pretty bad too, but I got it to fit ok in the end - before the windows. So I suspect this more due to the door than the window frame. But OMG, this is crap!

Sorry - just needed to vent.

xlr8or · 12-29-2011, 11:00 PM

And this is why I drive around with only a passenger side window.,

Fluge · 12-30-2011, 01:37 AM

Hi John

On the driver's side I had to cut out the back of the door for the frame to fit properly and also get a reasonable length striker. When I glassed it the back up again it gave me something to bolt the window frame to at the back. I recall having the frame float in the air at the back and that was just another reason to go ahead and reglass the door.

I dug up the second picture for you.

Marc

JohnPR · 12-30-2011, 04:41 PM

Thanks Marc. Those pics help. I'm no fibreglass expert, so have been trying to stay away from needing to re-glass stuff. But that door seems to be so far off that it needs rebuilding, so I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and learn how.

As a bonus, I suppose once I figure out how to 'glass properly, I'll be more able to fix things at other spots around the car that should really be fixed too, such as the exhaust openings (cutouts are several cm too far back), hood latch cutouts (which are several cm too far forward), and headlight cutouts (mounting holes are on wrong side). Sigh - I regret having opted for the factory cutouts.

Fluge · 12-30-2011, 05:56 PM

I was intimidated by the whole thing also. It wasn't that bad really. My body guy will clean it all up. Just do a search on the driver's side door threads. I recommend doing the rear flap technique...you'll know it when you see it.

Marc

ChazC5ZX · 12-30-2011, 10:25 PM

Hay John. Fiberglass is realy easy. Brush on A coat of resin slap on A piece of FG cloth dob it full and smoth it out and slap on another piece of cloth dob it full untill it's thick enough.
Chaz...

loeffler1 · 12-31-2011, 02:58 AM

Hey Guys,

Why don't you do what I did, scrap the door and get a new red door. Much cheaper in the long run when you figure time spent trying to get the old door to fit.

Bill