Brake install issue

[fallt1]

Here's one for you, has anyone encountered this problem and if so, what was your fix?
I got the '84 Jeep Master Cylinder as many on this site have suggested. I inserted the push rod into the piston and attempted to mount the unit to the firewall (with one FFR spacer). With the pushrod hooked onto the brake pedal, the master cylinder pushes the pedal up until it hits the 3/4" cross bar that the pedal box is mounted to. At this point, the master cylinder is still about 3" away from the firewall!
I can see two possible causes:
1. The pushrod is too long- mine is 6 3/8" from where it exits the master cylinder to the center of the pedal bushing hole. Does that sound right?
2. The 3/4" cross bar is in the wrong place, has anyone else had to cut and reposition this piece?

Any feedback or suggestions would be welcome, I would post pictures except my #@*%! digital camera is broken.
thanks,
Tim

[FlaRalph]

Tim- have not seen any posts about the 3/4" cross tube being relocated- I did not use that M/C but mine is more like 3 some inches long. You might have a pushrod for a Power Boosted M/C setup- they are generally longer since they must go thru the booster canister. I'm sure someone using that M/C will give you the skinny on that pushrod. I made a custom solid length pushrod from a blank rod end from McMaster Carr and made the end spherical. I have a hard rubber pad on the 3/4" tube to stop the pedal from making noise when it stops. I made sure that even without the rubber pad, the pushrod CAN NOT fall out of the M/C socket (the pedal or the 3/4" tube would have to break). There are several vendors on this forum that sell adjustable pushrods and some people have made their own

Did you do a search on the Roadster forum?? They use the same setups on theirs.

Later
FlaRalph

[David from Tri Cities]

Yes, your pushrod IS too long.

You might do a search on this subject to find the actual post.

As I recall:
You need to cut about an inch and a half out of the pushrod and then get a (I forget what its called) nut with standard threads in one end, and then reverse threads on the other. Then you run a die down on the shortened pushrod so that one end will have reverse threads and the other will have standard threads.
The idea is to remove that 1&1/2" section and then re-join the ends with the nut (like a turnbuckle) so you can alter the length of the pushrod for final adjustment.

Another way is to simply cut out 1&1/2" or 2" from the pushrod and then weld it back together with some sort of sleve over it for bracing.

This is something you SHOULD HAVE DONE before you inserted the rod into the MC. Now you will never get it out and your task will be harder now.

Whatever you do, make it strong because this is your BRAKES. Try to make your cuts as close to the middle of the pushrod because if you make it too close to either end the rod will be too thick (because of your nut) to push into the MC or wont fit onto your brake pedal. Just mind your clearences.

Dont try to do anything based on MY RECOLECTION !!! Do the search and get it done right.

[David from Tri Cities]

www.whitbymotorcars.com

These guys have an adjustable pushrod.

[PMcG]

I didn't have to cut anything. I used the Jeep master cylinder and the donor pushrod - unfortunately I am out of town currently and can't measure length of the pushrod for you - but it sounds too long at 6" - did you take the aluminum piece off the end?. I absolutely would not cut the 3/4" tubing as that provides the support structure for the footbox which will have a lot of stress going through it.

[fallt1]

Thanks, for the responses,
I suspected that the pushrod was the issue. The adjustable unit will be on order soon, but, you are right David, the pushrod that I now have inserted into the master cylinder will NOT come out! It is impossible to release that cir-clip down inside the piston. I may see if I can find a Jeep guy that wants a perfectly good master cylinder and start over! Too bad 'cause I had it painted up nice and everything. Oh well, Live and Learn!

[TBSTANGS]

With enough work you should be able to get the rod back out! Try to find tools to take A/C connectors apart. These connectors should be on most donors or maybe a fuel filter/line tool. They are made to release the spring clip that holds the rod in. Ford alone has 5 or 6 A/C sizes and 6 that I can remember fuel line sizes. The mid '90s Ford trucks had a tool for the fuel filters that should work, it was hinged and fit a couple differnt sizes lines. I hope this helps! PM me if you have questions or I didnt make any sense to you.