Coyote engine and clutch pairing/installation instructions? - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Coyote engine and clutch pairing/installation instructions?

We have a 2014 Coyote engine, TKO600, the Factory Five recommended clutch, some bearings, standard bellhousing, starter, etc... ready to be mated together and installed. We can't seem to find any good step by step instructions on how to do so? Anyone have a good guide? Easier the better!

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:52 AM
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The assembly is pretty straightforward. You don't mention flywheel, so I'm assuming you're using the provided nodular flywheel. The first thing is the block plate. As I understand, the stock version can be installed behind the flywheel without removing it. But I don't know that 100%. I used a Quicktime bell and for that block plate it is necessary to remove the flywheel. But it's not hard to remove and re-install if you have to. The flywheel can only be bolted in one position. Don't disturb the crank sensor when removing and re-installing the flywheel, if you have to. Install dowels into the flywheel at the proper locations for your clutch pressure plate. Then install the clutch using a clutch installation tool to hold the clutch disk in position while bolting on the pressure plate. Install the throw-out bearing onto the clutch arm, and the clutch arm into the bell housing. Then the bell housing onto the engine. Then install the transmission being very careful to guide the input shaft through the throw-out bearing and the end into the crankshaft pilot bearing. The starter motor should then bolt right on, although I typically leave the starter motor off until the engine is installed. I'm may not get in the way, but I still leave it off.

Some install the transmission onto the bell housing and then install that assembly onto the engine. That works too. I just personally prefer to mount the bell first.

There is a little more detailed explanation and pictures in my build thread starting here: EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply Edward! I've read the above and your thread and still have questions...lots of them! Hope you (and everyone else) don't mind? I did somehow fail to mention the flywheel but as you noted I do have the stock flywheel, it's not currently on the car. It's a 2014 from a wrecked car with 10k miles. The TKO600 is a used pull with only a few miles as well. The flywheel came with the engine but was off of the car. The clutch is the recommended CenterForce and is new from Ford. The bellhousing is the recommended one (aluminum) and is a take-off from another vehicle. Clutch fork, bearings and bolts are all new from Ford.

Starting with what I assume is first, I have a roller pilot bearing. There's one in engine but we bought another because it's cheap (I just noticed that Tasca sent me M-7600-A instead of M-7600-B which is another story I'm just noticing 8 months later....I'll have to sort that out or leave the old one). How do I remove the old one? How do I install the new one?

I have a blockoff plate, does it get attached or just sandwiched between the engine and the bellhousing? Anything I need to put between there or does it just sit metal to metal?

For the flywheel, it already has some dowels in it - any point it removing those and using the dowels that came with the mounting kit? I've found the flywheel torque ratings (177 lb-in then tighten an additional 60-degrees) so I'm good there. I've got two spare holes on the flywheel which are threaded, I'm assuming those are to put bolts in to push out the plate if you're removing it like on some drake disks?

For the clutch, I have the CenterForce and it came with no instructions. Not even torque ratings for the bolts! Warnings about which way to point it but really nothing else. My clutch looks just like yours so I'm hoping that'll make it easy! Torque in a star pattern I assume? For the install tool, I wasn't aware of that - I wonder if they have those at the local autoparts place?

For the clutch fork, and ball - what torques for these? How do I align them - am I looking for something specific with the ball height? I think the instructions said to take the weight off of the clutch fork which is easy enough.

What torque do I attach the bellhousing with? Since I have indexing pins in the engine / bellhousing is there anything I'm supposed to measure for alignment or just bolt it up flat? Any torquing pattern?

What torque do I attach the transmission to the bellhousing with? Come to think of it, I don't remember seeing any bolts listed to attach the transmission with!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:31 AM
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Although I do not have the Coyote motor, I do have the TKO 600 trans. I called Mike Forte with some questions and he has a wealth of knowledge regarding engine/trans combinations. Make notes of his answers to your questions. EdwardB is very knowledgeable too. Since you are mixing engine and bellhousing from different sources have you checked the runout of the bellhousing from the crank? American Powertrain has Youtube videos on how to do this. There are other Youtube videos showing how all your parts fit together. As for torque values, try the manufacturers of the products you are using. Most have tech lines. This forum can provide many of your answers, but you will get conflicting information at times. If you are still unsure, there are several builders on this forum who make house calls.

Doug
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MK IV
Prestige Motorsports 347 SBF, Moser 8.8 (3.31), 3 link, TKO 600,hydraulic clutch, PS, Heat/AC, 17" Halibrands, Nitto 555s,

Last edited by Bobby Doug; 04-21-2017 at 08:36 AM. Reason: add text
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Found some torque specs on the forum for the flywheel and clutch pressure plate (flywheel matches what I found on Ford):

Tighten flywheel bolts in a star pattern to 177 lb-in then tighten an additional 60-degrees...

Tighten clutch pressure plate bolts in a star pattern to 35 lb/ft then tighten an additional 60 degrees...

Both of these are from the Ford manual...

HTH...
Mar
k
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:30 PM
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Looks like you found a reference for torque values. Good. For your other questions:

Removing the pilot bearing can be interesting. There are extraction tools, but I've read mixed reviews and personally haven't used one. I use the grease technique others have mentioned on the forum. Pack it full of grease and hit it with a wooden dowel that fits into the bearing. Grease cannot compress and bearing gets forced out. It works surprisingly well. Just make sure the dowel or whatever you use is a tight fit into the bearing. Otherwise it doesn't work and only sprays grease over every corner of your shop. Ask me how I know that. The new one should tap right in. I find a socket that matches up with the outer race and use that to lightly drive it in. If kept straight, should go in and seat relatively easily. Some put them in the freezer overnight right before installing. Shrinks it just enough to make it go in easier. But I haven't found that necessary with the SBF's I've done. Having said all that, take a good look at the pilot bearing that's there. It may not need to be replaced.

Yes the block plate is sandwiched between the block and the bell housing. It's loose until you bolt on the bell housing. Make sure the bell housing locating dowels are still in the block. Actually on that engine they're two pieces of tubing that mounting bolts also go through. Indexing the bell housing was mentioned. But unfortunately Ford didn't provide for that option. There aren't any offset dowel pins that work with it. Not that I've found or heard about.

For the flywheel, if the dowels match the pressure plate of your clutch, I would use them as is. Since you're dealing with used parts, you may want to use new flywheel and clutch bolts. I don't know that they're specific one-time use bolts. But still cheap insurance to start new. Not a friendly space to get back to.

For the clutch alignment tool, yes that's a pretty generic item and may be available at your local parts store. They're available on-line at Summit, etc. Plastic ones are pretty cheap. Used to be pretty common that replacement clutch kits came with an alignment tool. But apparently not always and I too noticed the Centerforce/Ford clutch didn't have one. They're specific to the input shaft size and spline count, so make sure to get the right one if you go that way. It might be possible to rig something up to hold the clutch disc centered to the pilot bearing, but I haven't tried. Once you bolt on the pressure plate, the tool is removed because the clutch plate isn't going anywhere.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:31 PM
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Are you using the quick time bell shouting it the stock (tremec)? I'm asking because I used the stock tremec bell housing and the center force clutch. After assembly I found the pivot ball to be too long. Drove fine but clutch was effectively always engaged. I had to drop the tranny last week and fix. Be forewarned.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvettebert View Post
Are you using the quick time bell shouting it the stock (tremec)? I'm asking because I used the stock tremec bell housing and the center force clutch. After assembly I found the pivot ball to be too long. Drove fine but clutch was effectively always engaged. I had to drop the tranny last week and fix. Be forewarned.
OP said he's using the stock aluminum bell housing.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 04:08 PM
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I just went through this process for the first time, too. Done lots of work on cars, never before on the clutch system.

+1 for the YouTube videos, particularly for installing the throwout bearing into the fork properly. I found it helpful to dry-assemble the parts to see how it all goes together, before adding blue loctite and torquing everything down.

I'm following the transmission + bellhousing assembly being lifted to the engine process, which let me see operation of the fork, bearing, etc. I also have an Aluminum bellhousing - if you were using a steel one, definitely would recommend bolting the housing to the engine, then adding the transmission.

A couple of alternatives to the grease hydraulic extraction of pilot bearing: Some claim that packing wet paper towels instead of grease works. Seems reasonable and less messy, haven't tried it. Also found a video showing removal of a Chevy pilot bushing by lightly driving a bolt with threads just larger than bearing ID, then turning the bolt to thread down and push the bearing back out. Seems like this would work with a bushing, not so well with a roller bearing.

This is obvious once you see it, but make sure the clip on the pivot end of the clutch fork snaps onto the top of the pivot bolt. Also make sure you clean any grease or oil off the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces right before you assemble for the final time.

Most folks appear to aim for having their fork be perpendicular to the transmission input shaft when the throwout bearing is just touching or just clearing the pressure plate fingers. Adjusting the pivot bolt height can move this around, although I'm using a fixed-height Ford pivot.
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