Weather pack connectors - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Weather pack connectors

I am looking to order Delphi weather pack connectors.
How many and what sizes are recommended?
Which crimping tool is best for these?
There are cheaper brands than Delphi but are they as good?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 02:10 PM
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Weather Pack Kit

Here is a great place to start. Michael Everson has kits already set up at www.replicaparts.com

Here is a link to the connectors and tools

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 02:19 PM
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Agreed, go with Mike. I made the mistake of chasing around at Napa's and other stores as I only needed two, what a waste of time and frustration.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 02:35 PM
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WeatherPak is the way to go. I bought the ones that are already crimped and have leads that can easily be spliced into existing wires. All of the Front Lights and running lights, and rear running lights in my car have bee replaced. I bought an assortment of 2, 3 and 4 conductor connectors. Now I don't have to worry about moisture getting in, nor the homemade crimps falling apart.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 03:45 PM
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Thanks for posting this. These look like exactly what I need for the lights on the car, but was unsure of how to make a better connection than the crimps that came with the kit.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 03:57 PM
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I remember back in the day when I had a british car (Sunbeam Alpine and Tiger) with lucas electrical. When I read the crimp instructions for crimping the weatherpak connecters that came with the RF wiring, I had a momentary Flashback.

But I am over that now !

Know your limitations...

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcwho View Post
WeatherPak is the way to go. I bought the ones that are already crimped and have leads that can easily be spliced into existing wires. All of the Front Lights and running lights, and rear running lights in my car have bee replaced. I bought an assortment of 2, 3 and 4 conductor connectors. Now I don't have to worry about moisture getting in, nor the homemade crimps falling apart.

Bob
Bob - where did you get pre-crimped versions? I don't see those on Mike's website.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 08:02 PM
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Weatherpak Pigtails

Initiator, its called delcity.net, look under the pigtails section. Thet have 1,2,3,4,and 5 connector versions.

They are also a good source for colored primary wire in any guage or color you want.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Weathe...10525.h_810530

Regards

Bob
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 02:52 PM
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Definitely use the pig-tail method, much easier to work with. I used a combination of the two and I feel much better about the pig-tail ones. Ultimately I'll be going through and replacing all of the ones that I made with the pig-tail version.

Adam
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 03:18 PM
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Pig Tails

This is just my opinion but I don't understand why you would use pig tailed connectors. You are now relying on someone else (hopefully a professional) to make your crimp and then adding another point of potential failure. If you are competent enough to make good splices then you should be more than capable of making a good crimp connection. Mike Everson even provides a tool for rent along with instructions.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDXXVII View Post
This is just my opinion but I don't understand why you would use pig tailed connectors. You are now relying on someone else (hopefully a professional) to make your crimp and then adding another point of potential failure. If you are competent enough to make good splices then you should be more than capable of making a good crimp connection. Mike Everson even provides a tool for rent along with instructions.
For me it's my confidence in soldering and heat shrinking connections vs. building connectors that I have little experience with.

Adam
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDXXVII View Post
This is just my opinion but I don't understand why you would use pig tailed connectors. You are now relying on someone else (hopefully a professional) to make your crimp and then adding another point of potential failure. If you are competent enough to make good splices then you should be more than capable of making a good crimp connection. Mike Everson even provides a tool for rent along with instructions.
I couldn't agree more. Was going to say the same thing, but you beat me to it. With the right crimper (quality, specifically for weather packs) and the right size pins, there's not too much easier to assemble than those connectors. The tabs on the pins fold over onto the wires beautifully. I generally give them a little bit of a tug (very scientific pull test...) to make sure they're crimped properly. But one you've done a few it's easy to see when they're right. The seal crimps on the end very simply. And they snap into the connector bodies very easily. Just make sure to have the extractor tool. They're almost impossible to get back out once they click. Ask me how I know.

I usually get mine from DelCity.net. They have all the various cavity male and female bodies, and a wide selection of all the pins and seals. You can buy exactly what you need, although I generally get extra pins and seals.
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Last edited by edwardb; 04-18-2017 at 04:37 PM.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 02:43 AM
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A weather pack pigtail COMPLETELY defeats the purpose of using a weather pack connector. It is silly that they even make these things, which are for letting someone replace a broken one without the correct tools. Electrical circuits should have the absolute minimum possible connections. Using these puts FOUR unnecessary joints (failure points - each butt slice is 2) in each wire.

The whole reason that crimp connectors are used instead of soldering, is that they do not depend on assembler skill. However, that makes the big assumption that you use the correct crimper. Any crimper that doesn't ratchet (won't let go until you crimp the connector enough), is not really a "correct" one.

If you want to ensure that you do it right, you are going to have to fork out for a real weather pack type (crimps onto the connector and grommet at the same time), ratcheting crimper. And make sure that you use the correct size pins AND correct size grommets for each wire.

I used to work on ships, submarines, and nuclear power plants and have assembled about a thousand of these things. Do them right, or save your money and don't bother.

If you really want to solder, solder the weather pack pins. Use a heat sink so you don't damage the grommet. Don't add a splice.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
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If you really want to solder, solder the weather pack pins. Use a heat sink so you don't damage the grommet. Don't add a splice.
I've done this my entire career and not one failed joint. Use care on solder, a little goes a long way but it won't pull out if done right. Takes a little more time, but well worth it.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 01:01 PM
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The whole reason that crimp connectors are used instead of soldering, is that they do not depend on assembler skill. However, that makes the big assumption that you use the correct crimper. Any crimper that doesn't ratchet (won't let go until you crimp the connector enough), is not really a "correct" one.
I think this is a fair point. I have not used the correct tool. Off to Del City to order one.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 01:39 PM
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Presumably (and hopefully) the people that sell pigtailed connectors use a Komax (or similar) wire prep machine to cut/strip/crimp the thousands of wire/terminal assemblies they order. It is not likely they crimp these by hand. Construction equipment wiring harnesses use this method and it is as reliable as soldering.
I do not have a proper crimper so I solder my terminals.

To avoid poor crimps done in the field construction equipment manufacturers sell pigtailed connectors, figuring the tech is more likely to have tools for butt splice than terminal crimp and that the butt splice is more likely to be done correctly than the terminal crimp.

Myself, I prefer Deutsch DT connectors. My background in this is 24 years of designing electrical systems and wiring harnesses for construction equipment.

boB

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:49 PM
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I am also a fan of the Deutsch DTM connectors. I actually buy the Amphenol ATM connectors which are the same (different manufacturer) connector but much cheaper than the Deutsch manufactured ones. I find them to be more compact than the WeatherPak connectors and easier to assemble/disassemble. They do require crimping. I use a $30 weather-tite crimping tool (from Summit SUM-900401) that works excellent. I have a ratcheting crimp tool that is more expensive but honestly I prefer this non-ratcheting one. I get my connectors from WaytekWire.com.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:07 PM
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Agree tottaly on the least connections the better. Weather packs from Mike Crimped and soldered DONE FOREVER !
Kenny

PS Get the correct tools including the pin remover.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 10:20 PM
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I didn't think that my last one posted. My browser crashed, and I was tired. I'll finish up what I was saying and tell on myself......

I soldered mine too!!!

I went to do some work in a nuke plant. They check everything going in. Toolbag, inside a Chapstick, wallet, full pat-down with a crotch grab (no dinner or drinks). This was PRE-911, can't imagine what they do now. I had some good quality (Amp) non-ratcheting general crimpers in the bottom of my tool bag. They wouldn't let them on site.

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:12 AM
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Agreed. I've done various connectors crimped and soldered and soldering, when done correctly, will last forever. Crimps are susceptible to heat and cold expansion/contraction and at some point, they will be "looser" than when you first crimped them, at best. I've tried to crimp on various spade connectors but it's 50/50 if they'll come out with a firm tug. With soldered ones, I'm more likely to tug the entire plug/pin out of the housing.


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