Dash Mounting Ideas? - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

 2Thanks
  • 1 Post By edwardb
  • 1 Post By CRZN 427
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
kitcarnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Winnipeg MB
Posts: 156
Dash Mounting Ideas?

Hey Gang, I'm not a huge fan of putting screws into the dash to hold it in place. I have the new MK4 moulded dash with the glove box.
Has anyone came up with something else they would share with me. I was almost thinking 3M two way tape, but could be an issue if I ever need to remove it.
Thoughts?

kitcarnut is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 11:14 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
edwardb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 4,731
I am also not a big fan of screws through the front of the dash to hold it in place. So have used hidden mounts on the back of the dash for each of my builds. You can see them in two of the build threads, linked in my sig line. But those were aluminum dashes with screws holding the brackets through the aluminum. That doesn't apply in your case. While I don't have personal experience, I've seen multiple threads where guys have tried to bond brackets onto the back of the aluminum, and even with pretty exotic adhesives didn't hold up. There isn't a ton of experience with the pre-made dash you have, but since it's a plastic material vs. aluminum, getting something to stick is going to be even more challenging IMO. Brackets, tape, Velcro, whatever. I just don't think they're going to stick and adequately hold up the dash once it's loaded with gauges, wiring, etc. My personal recommendation for that dash is screws through the face. I really don't think you have a choice. Even though it's not the look you want, in the end it's going to be solid and more serviceable. I would also recommend adding brackets under the dash tube so that the screws can be lowered enough to be under the body lip. Screws directly into the dash tube would probably be partially or completely covered.

kitcarnut thanked this.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015-2016 Coyote. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
edwardb is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 04:48 PM
Senior Charter Member
 
CRZN 427's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Morro Bay, CA
Posts: 4,671
One Idea...

To hide the screw heads you can use screw head covers. Some might think they are more of an eye sore than the screws but it is one alternative.

Regards, Rick.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-screw-covers/=16oju2h
kitcarnut thanked this.

Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.

"Too Much Is Just Right" $helby
CRZN 427 is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 05:33 PM
FFCobra Craftsman
 
CraigS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Manassas, Va
Posts: 17,684
I really like Bob's method. Just need to plan ahead (as I know he did) to make sure your long screwdriver will fit between the gauges and also any reinforcing brackets you add to the bottom of the dash.

FFR 5353K, 408W, TKO 500, 2015 IRS w/ 315 gear, Breeze QA1 DA coilovers front and rear, APE hardtop, Forte front swaybar
CraigS is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 10:28 PM
Senior Member
 
rickscobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Farmington, Maine
Posts: 216
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
I am also not a big fan of screws through the front of the dash to hold it in place. So have used hidden mounts on the back of the dash for each of my builds. You can see them in two of the build threads, linked in my sig line. But those were aluminum dashes with screws holding the brackets through the aluminum. That doesn't apply in your case. While I don't have personal experience, I've seen multiple threads where guys have tried to bond brackets onto the back of the aluminum, and even with pretty exotic adhesives didn't hold up. There isn't a ton of experience with the pre-made dash you have, but since it's a plastic material vs. aluminum, getting something to stick is going to be even more challenging IMO. Brackets, tape, Velcro, whatever. I just don't think they're going to stick and adequately hold up the dash once it's loaded with gauges, wiring, etc. My personal recommendation for that dash is screws through the face. I really don't think you have a choice. Even though it's not the look you want, in the end it's going to be solid and more serviceable. I would also recommend adding brackets under the dash tube so that the screws can be lowered enough to be under the body lip. Screws directly into the dash tube would probably be partially or completely covered.
I have the composite(AKA plastic) dash, and I tried a number of things trying to get something that would bond to the dash. Even after putting my RF harness on a diet and carefully tying up the wires, I just could not imagine trying to drop that dash. I resorted to the black screws with the confidence that the dash is firmly mounted. If I have an issue down the road, I will deal with it. Hoping the new electronic gauges will be trouble free. Just my 2 cents
rickscobra is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 11:46 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
cwrandolph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sidney, Ohio
Posts: 1,897
Since my dash is solid aluminum, I couldn't live with any screw heads showing. I have a 10-24 machine screw coming through the hoop on each side which holds the dash (welded to the hoop on the back side). These are where the body curves towards the back of the car so there is room to put a nut on the bolts. They are tucked under the body and you would never see them if you weren't looking for them. There is also some velcro in the center area and I have a horizontal panel on the bottom which attaches to the steel 2 X 2. In the last picture you can see 1/8" aluminum bonded to the dash (engine turned aluminum) with epoxy. No evidence yet of the epoxy letting go. Not sure if this is any help with the molded dash. Pictures aren't the best - sorry.






Chas Randolph Sidney, Ohio FFR 6113, '91 5.0 EFI, TFS heads, Comp cam, GT40 Tubular intake, 24lb injectors T5Z w/midshift, 3-link, SAI Mod, TurboCoupe rear 3:55's, 17" Team III's, Picked up @ FFR on 5/5/07, First start 10/5/08, Go Cart 9/27/09, Licensed & Legal 9/30/10. Painted 6/3/12. Graduation 8/21/12. Engine rebuilt & pumped up May '13.
cwrandolph is online now  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 05:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: 7 Crestview Avenue, Medway, MA 02053
Posts: 2,015
6-32 button head stainless screws look just fine. Same thing I used to fasten the hood scoop. They are in plain sight and even add to the look in my opinion.
Some show more or less since the hoop is not the same curve as the body but really it is not something I even think about.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

Last edited by Mark Reynolds; 03-10-2017 at 05:19 PM. Reason: added link
Mark Reynolds is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 08:09 PM
Senior Member
 
SJDave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Santa Clara, Ca
Posts: 918
Garage
Another vote for exposed fasteners

McMaster has the low profile stainless cap head screws that look pretty nice, I made some black nylon washers for them to nest into on my hobby lathe. I used them for the dash mounting (on the far left and right sides...not that visible...to some billet brackets that mount to the 2 x 2 tube behind the dash.

The bracket slide front to back on the 2" tube and plastic bracket slides up and down that is bolted through the padded dash. Since I had moved my dash mounting frame back 1.5" to gain some arm room, I didn't know quite where things would end up with the body on, so this can adjust about anywhere.



Same fasteners used on center console stack and cover, you can see two of them at each side of the dash.


Billet brackets and plastic sliders.
011.jpg Photo by dalbertalli | Photobucket


3.1 IRS Complete Kit #6616, June 08 delivery; 347 stroker; TKO 500 Mid Shift; SAI & Bumpsteer Mods; Manual Rack;
" At 60 there is no time left to delay your Dreams "
SJDave is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 07:20 PM
Senior Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
CDXXVII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Clarita / California
Posts: 1,801
Dash Support

I was going to use the hidden mount approach but with my under dash filler panel it was just going to make things difficult.

My dash is supported by the three 6-32 screws visible along the top of the dash and my under dash filler panel. I like the look of the screws and after a while you do not notice them anymore.

Be sure that you have your body mounted before you drill your holes for the exposed screws. Also, for the Mk4 you need to add some brackets for the screws to have them accessible after the body is on. All three of my screws are below the dash hoop. Screwing into the 3/4" dash hoop frame will not give you access later. The shape of the body does not exactly follow the shape of the dash.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands
First Start 05/23/2015
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

First GoCart 05/23/2015
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CDXXVII is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 03:29 PM
Senior Member
 
AdamC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Brentwood NH
Posts: 308
not the best pics but....
i too do not like the visible screws so I have three small pieces of angle that i fastened to the arch tube and the dash fits under them. I also have a full lower support from mike everson.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3044.jpg (230.6 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3045.jpg (240.9 KB, 38 views)

MKIV 7785
coyote 302
tko-600
wilwood brake upgrade
delivered 4/12
engine in 6/14
first start 09/14
go-cart 09/14
paint 6/15
legal 7/15
AdamC is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.