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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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Rubbing sound

Update – Problem Solved - The “rubbing sound” was indeed the rear brake pad rubbing on the rotor in tight turns (both left and right).

The Fix – I removed the rear wheels, brakes, axles, gears and clutch packs once again (third time)……but this time when I reinstalled everything I left out the “S” spring that puts preload on the clutch packs. Rubbing sound went away and car corners and handles perfectly now. Still get good lockup on LSD and both wheels get full power.

Additional Info – During disassembly I measured everything and all was in spec. Space between axle end and pinion shaft was .008 inches on both left and right side. Clutch packs were in right sequence and each carbon fiber was .080 and each steel was .100 and shim was .030 (4*.080 + 3 * .100 + .030 = .650). Spider and side gears were still new. The “s” spring was the new. bigger, thicker spring (and it was extremely hard installing it the last time). After reinstalling everything except the ‘S” spring the only measurement that changed was the space between the axle end and the pinion shaft…it was now zero…..they are touching. Rear wheel s now spin much much much easier when car is on jack stands.

I haven’t found any drawbacks yet to removing the “S” spring but some day in the future I plan to redo the rear end yet again and use the old, smaller, softer “S” spring that was in there originally. But right now I am really happy with the way the Cobra runs.


Original Post...........

I now have 1000 miles on my Mk4 and have started experiencing a “rubbing sound” on the front end when I turn sharply or go in a tight circle. I have looked closely under the car and I have not found any sign of the tire or wheel rubbing any part of the car or suspension. ( I have looked extensively with the car on the ground and on jack stands…..moving the wheel and suspension to travel limit extremes) The sound cannot be reproduced when the car is stationary…only when car is moving.

I have a Hydroboosted power steering rack (1996) and 245/45/17 tires on 9 inch Halibrand wheels. The rack already has extra travel restrictors (c-clips) on it.

I am wondering if I may be dragging one (or both ) tires sideways on these turns. Would that make a rubbing sound? (I have lot of caster …..7 degrees…. to make it steer well.)

Any idea what might be causing this rubbing sound?


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Last edited by CamrCobr; 04-22-2017 at 01:46 AM.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 01:33 AM
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Rubbing the F-Panels? My mk4 / 245/45 17 / Halibrands rub when turned too tight. You can install limiters on the rack. It's on my to-do list.



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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 01:37 AM
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With 17" wheels, probably not an issue, pull the wheels and see if anything is rubbing inside the wheels. Cannot think of anything else right now, unless the engine is torquing over and rubbing something. Can you feel it in the steering wheel?
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Mptech.....you're right, but I have already installed the c-clips to fix that problem.

Railroad.....I'll pull the wheels tomorrow and check that out. The sound occurs even when engine is idling through a turn or circle so probably not that,...but I 'll look again. And no, no feedback through steering wheel (unless I turn too far and get the power steering pump whine that any PS will give if you turn too far.)

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 03:30 AM
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After 500 miles I noticed my suspension has had sagged a bit (~1/4-1/2"). Have you double checked your ride height? Seems this is a common issue. I went up about 2 turns on my front coilovers to put the front where it should be. My rear is a bit low right now, but only rubs over the worst of bumps. I need to put it up and take the wheels off and run the rear up a bit.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 12:26 PM
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Camr:

Check your brake lines for interference with the wheels/tires. Be sure the suspension is at ride height. I have a friend that had this issue, and I won't go into how he discovered it!

Frank B

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 03:00 PM
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Are you sure it is coming from the front? Like Frank said --- Check brake flex hoses to see if the may be rubbing the tire.

I've also heard the rubbing / moaning sound telegraphed from the rear brake calipers to the front of the car... You would need anti-moan brackets to totally cure that.

Regards - Randy
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-Foot View Post
Are you sure it is coming from the front? Like Frank said --- Check brake flex hoses to see if the may be rubbing the tire.

I've also heard the rubbing / moaning sound telegraphed from the rear brake calipers to the front of the car... You would need anti-moan brackets to totally cure that.
To help be more accurate checking if the noise is from the front or rear, turn your head 90 degrees to the right. This way front is left ear, etc. For me it makes it more obvious.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 05:33 PM
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Do you have donor control arms on your car? I actually had the inside of one wheel rubbing on the control arm.

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the suggestions.

I had my wife drive it in circles in the church parking lot while I walked beside and listened. Could not pinpoint sound,,,but feel it is from the front. Ride Height is okay. I raised the car up on jack stands again and looked over everything again....front and back wheels. Brake hoses, parking brake line ABS wires, all well out of way with car in droop and with each wheel lifted up to ride height with jack. No rubbing anywhere. No sign of scuffing on aluminum panels, on fiberglass body on frame or on tie-rods or springs (coil overs). I put masking tape everywhere it came close and drove it again. Sound still there and masking tape undisturbed. It is dark now, so I quit for the night and will try again tomorrow.


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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 01:24 PM
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Loose wheel bearing and rotor being rubbed by brake pads? Even w/o a loose wheel bearing there is sometimes noise from pad/rotor contact if a caliper is a little stiff. Take the sliders out, clean and lube w/ brake grease or light chassis grease. Most parts stores will have brake grease in small foil packs.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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I thought I had it figured out but I didn't. I thought it might be serpentine belt slipping so I changed that. Sound still there.

CraigS, Wheel bearings on front are good (No looseness when grabing wheel and moving side to sise and up and down). Rear bearings are god because I recently put in new friction pads in LSD and checking bearing and seal then. Brakes check out too. But thanks for the ideas.

I now feel certain that the sound is coming from the rear of the car. So I am looking into "binding" whatever that is.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 05:24 PM
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Positraction/locked differential squealing the tires in a tight turn?

If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 06:06 PM
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Ride the brake a little and if it goes away, check to make sure you have anti-moan brackets on the rear and that they are tight.
I chased this on my own car for weeks and it was the brackets all along..

Regards - Randy
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Boat737 – I took the car to a grass field and did my tight turns. Sound still there.

Big-Foot – I’ll try the brakes on my next test run. Good idea.

Take a look at this picture. I put too much grease in and the LCA bushing bulged out. Could this be the “rubbing” sound I hear when making tight loops?
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File Type: jpg LCA bushing bulge.jpg (170.3 KB, 77 views)

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 10:09 PM
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I'm not sure if that would cause noise but could certainly cause a bind. I'd take the bushing apart and re-seat it. I'd be concerned about a bind that could "unload" in a turn.

2X on riding the brake a bit to see if that causes the noise to stop. I also had rear brake moan which I fixed with the anti-moan brackets. Mine would happen under load pulling a tight low speed 90* corner, or in reverse backing out of the driveway, go figure. Good Luck. Scott

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 10:44 PM
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Just looked those brackets are $190 on eBay. Pretty pricy.


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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 01:13 PM
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Unfortunately I think they are out of production by Ford so pricing will be whatever someone can get. They really do help. BTW here are the Ford numbers if anyone wants to search.

F9ZZ-2C366-AA & F9ZZ-2C367-AA fit Mustang GT rear brakes w/ the 10.6 rotor

1R3Z-2C366-AA & 1R3Z-2C367-AA fit Mustang Cobra rear brakes w/ the 11.65 rotor.

There are two part numbers for each size since left and right are different.

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamrCobr View Post
Take a look at this picture. I put too much grease in and the LCA bushing bulged out. Could this be the “rubbing” sound I hear when making tight loops?
I kind of doubt that's causing whatever sound you're hearing. Regardless, that's something I would address. For some time now FF has had grooves in the bushings so they would lube properly. You should get squeeze out before bulging like that. I would take that apart and fix it.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 11:46 AM
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Question

Any updates?
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:36 PM
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Sounds (no pun intended) like my unsolved problem. Can you feel it in the wheel or vibration through the seat?

Is it more pronounced with a passenger in the car?
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, see update at top of thread..................CamerCobr

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 04:22 PM
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Yes, see update at top of thread..................CamerCobr
Was the rotor marked? How did you determine the rub. Could be my issue because it happened after I change pads & they were a tight fit.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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No, the rotor disk was not marked....but the brake pad was. It was worn slightly at the top of the pad.

Yes, it could be your new brake pads. As part of redoing my rear end I also reworked the brakes. My pads were very difficult to install because of such a tight fit................ so this last time I ground down the ends of each pad (made shorter) on my bench grinder, then refit the little clips. The pads went on much easier this last time. Because I changed so much it is not possible to say exactly what fixed my problem, but the car handles so much better with the S spring removed that I gave it credit for the fix.

Grinding down the ends of the brake pads (the part that you grease) is quick, cheap, and probably worth a try.

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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:44 AM
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Thanks,

Am pulling them tomorrow will take a look. I did do some grinding on them to get the in, but maybe not enough.

Were they HBS+ pads?


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