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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Help Wilwood brakes

Hi All,

Sorry but I am looking for some help please..... or hope someone can shed some light.

Font brake calapers are warming up and causing the break to bind.

The break is fitted correctly, centerd and riding at the right heigh.

First drive: got about 3 miles and the front started to bind, I knew this as the car dipped the nose when pulling away, by lifting the car when I got back and checking the wheels.

What looks to be happening is the pistons are not retracting or floating back
Brake fluid reseviour was full with a small air gap at the top.

Have i got somthing wrong? Can any one shed some light please. I cant think that would cause them not to float back...
PS I was not riding the break

Thanks

Richard

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 09:07 PM
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power brakes or manual


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 10:04 PM
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Make sure you have free play on the push rod. This is a really common issue with wilwood pedal assy or with adjustable push rods. If the jam nut isn't tight the push rod will adjust itself on it's own.


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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Manual brakes, what are you thinking M DOUGHERTY

Last edited by rfstratton2000; 02-17-2017 at 09:28 AM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:39 AM
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I am thinking exactly
where Gordon was going.
Do the brakes start off loose, and as the car moves and warms up The brakes then over heat and lock up?
this would make me think that they are set up to tight as Gordon stated.
more play at the top end of the pedal travel may be needed.
is the brake pedal touching the cross bar limiting the pedal from coming back?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:33 PM
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Also be careful when adjusting the balance bar. If that bar is at a slight angle at rest (in top view) the free play of the two pushrods can change as it is adjusted.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice, the car is finished so I need to drill out the inspection panel and adjust from above.

I have triple checked the Wilwood specs and will set the bar as parallel make sure I have some free play. I think I might be right on the edge with the adjustment.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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M DOUGHERTY

The brake pedal does hit the cross member and I am going to check the float now.

What or is there a bench test for this adjustment to make sure it worked?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 04:55 PM
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but with that said if your brake pedal is resting up against the cross bar behind it it will be lightly applying your brakes all the time. This causes heat build up, fluid expansion and later brake drag, and lock up.
so a quick adjustment of the 2 rods going into the clevises attached to the bias bar will fix the problem. turn them in 2 full turns each.
at rest the bias bar should be unequal. while applying the brakes it should be close to even.
of coarse there are so many combos of masters and calipers that is not an absolute, just a general rule.
Later
Mark D
any other questions just call I am happy to help.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 04:59 PM
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My test is I shorten the pushrod until it is obviously loose. Then I lengthen it 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until is gets snug. I just wiggle it a little and as soon as there isn't any wiggle to it, that is snug. Back it off 1/4 turn from there. As you drive the car more and get into checking and adjusting front to rear balance, you may be making some pretty large adjustments- ,5-6-7 turns of the balance shaft. Remember to go back and check the push rods once again. Once you get the balance set, in the future your changes will be much smaller. As in 1/4 turn at a time. So, at that point, there usually isn't much effect on the push rod free play.


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 05:53 PM
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Sounds like you are in good hands.

One recommendation. Use riv-nuts and button head screws for the inspection panel. You will need to get in there on occasion. Metal filings and fuse panels are not a good combination.

You can get a cheap riv-nut tool at Harbor Freight that works fine. Refill riv-nuts at Mcmaster-Carr

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