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I want stacks

15K views 55 replies 20 participants last post by  rich grsc 
#1 ·
So I have been researching threads on stacks and also reached out to Wayne to get a quote. I know there is also Jim Inglese who I think is down in CT. Any helpful advice?
 
#2 ·
There are a ton of different systems available, Inglese, 8stack and Borla have a ton of different styles. I am a dealer for all of them and each has their pros and cons. They will all cost you $6K +or- with a FAST EZ 2.0 computer system.
There is the Speedmaster intake with a FAST EZ 2.0 computer that will run you under $4K for everything.
Feel free to give me a call and I would be happy to talk over all of these systems with you.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Gordon, I will give you a call next week. The Speedmaster I have not read good things about though. Made in China?
 
#5 ·
I used the speedmaster intake/tb setup on my build. It works beautifully. You need to do some fabrication, but it is a decent piece. I found no flaws with it. The biggest thing is the electronics and tuning. I used the Holley HP ecu, tuned it on my dyno and then fine tuning in the car. It made well over 500 hp and 465 ft. lbs of torque on a 347 with a fairly mild cam. I was a little worried about low speed drivability, but it is no problem whatsoever. I can lug it down to 1200 rpm in 4th and it still stays smooth. The only issue I had was getting it to idle slow enough( a lot of throttle blade area). I ended up closing the throttle blades all the way and added a second IAC. That way the ECU has total control of the idle. I also had to make sure the timing table had a very smooth transition or the car would be jerky when driving at slow speed. Bottom line is, tuning is the critical part.

Bob
 
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#4 ·
I think they are made in Australia. They are inexpensive but need a lot of fittings to get them to work.
 
#7 ·
DO a ton of research to make sure they work long term. Tons of talk about the proper cam is needed... keeping them synched.
I talked to a guy last year as I was wanting them for my FE build and said, " well, I'll tell you like this, I have put 6 sets on and took 7 sets off."
Gordon may have a different take. But can't beat the looks.
I did talk to a BMW hot master that does very high end builds and he said the had really good luck with the RedLine controller
 
#8 · (Edited)


I have the Speedmaster stacks. Built my own ECU from a Megasquirt kit. It is on a 347 with this cam: HR-232/352-2S1-12 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft for Ford 1985-1995 V-8, 5.0L. Runs awesome! Very street-able, yet scary fast.

I don't know where you read bad things about the Speedmaster intake. I couldn't find anything but a Mustang 360 article a couple years ago. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...electronics-ir-individual-runner-intake-test/

I took a chance and, for me, it paid off. Been running it for 2 years and no problems at all. Research Megasquirt. The high performance BMW turbo crowd swear by it. Hasn't let me down either.
 
#10 ·
You can see the screens in my photo. Working on a filter solution.
 
#12 ·
Webers are beautiful but I am concerned about them being a little finicky. I know if I went with Jim Inglese I could install them and then bring my car down to him to ensure they are tuned perfectly, it's only when/if they get out of tune that concerns me. I think I am up to learning about tuning webers but the EFI route sure seems like a no-brainer because cost is not much different based on initial review.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Once tuned, the Webers should be good. They won't go out of tune. They might go out of balance over miles and miles of driving but that is not too hard to correct.

I put screens under the velocity stacks. Not too worried about filtration since we only drive these cars in a relatively clean environment. Jegs now sells a dome screen that will fit.

Bob
http://www.jegs.com/i/Speedmaster/746/PCE107.1018/10002/-1 Are the ones I have.



Not sure what the Real McCoy is. Years ago I was anti-injection thinking "whats better than just pouring fuel into the engine, certainly not the finesse if metering little squirts of fuel in each cylinder." Well, after years of fiddling, trial and error of changing jets and emulsion tubes and venturi tubes, I'm sold on injection. I'm not trying to convert anyone-those threads already exist. Just relaying my experience.

Have fun and enjoy whatever you choose.
 
#15 ·
Just had a great conversation with Jim Inglese. A really nice guy and sounds like he has great after-sale service. Definitely would be 'old-school' going with the Webers and his solution and as I stated he is fairly close to me.

Waiting on Wayne to get back to me on his solution and then we'll see.
 
#16 ·
Webers. oh yeah. :wink2:
 
#17 ·
In our St. Louis club, 3 people have had weber carbs, one installed and tuned by Jim. Every one of them dumped them after a year or two. They didn't stay tuned, and it was always hot start trouble. If you want the look of weber's, get the 8 stack setup, it's what I'm working on. It should have been done by now, but life keeps getting in the way. :eek:hmy:



 
#18 ·
#19 ·
It's only twice the price John. Once they are tuned they are pretty trouble free.
 
#20 ·
If you don't go crazy with a narrow lobe center cam and limit your fuel pressure to no more than 3.5 PSI, the Weber carbs will perform very well for a very long time..
Jim Inglese worked with Comp Cams to develop a pair of camshaft profiles specifically geared toward use with Weber Carbs.
I have one of those cams in my 331 which dynoed at 414 HP and 430 TQ..

Here is one of my Dyno Pulls

 
#26 ·
Thanks Rich, good to hear all sides as that is how one becomes informed. I appreciate it.
 
#27 ·
I started to post last night, but I think I fell asleep, and then it was rambling, so I will try again.


Have lived with Weber 48 IDF's since 2009. They have been trouble free, but there are some things to take into account. As said above, floats, cam, timing, pressure, and filters need to be addressed before committing to webers.

As to the hot start issue, I have not had that problem.. .... Maybe because I used a 1 inch spacer under carbs so that the pump rods would clear the valve covers. (I have roller rockers and use tall valve covers.) That spacer is probably acting as a heat sink, and could be keeping the carbs from being too hot. Usually when I hear about a hot start issue, it's attributed to a float level that is set too high, and the fuel expands into the venturi after a shut down. Float levels are important.

The mechanical setup is just as critical as the jetting, but once it is setup there is no further adjusting. Linkage can be a challenge, I use a cable pulling into the center of the manifold with a bellcrank on a plate between the rear carbs. Simple as mud.

I live at 5200 feet of altitude, and we have been over 9000 feet and down to sea level without adjusting the carbs. I do not check fuel mileage, and don't care.

If you want the look and performance of webers, get webers.
 
#29 ·
Hey Kyle

I ran Webbers for a couple of years on a Mustang. Really like them. Wish I hadn’t sold them now, but never really had any issues with them except keeping them in tune with the weather. No fault of the Webbers, just where I live.

Webbers are carbs and they work like carbs. Depending on where you live, they will pretty much stay the way you set them. It’s the weather that makes the most changes on them. Here in Oklahoma we go through such a temperature and moisture change throughout the year they really need to be tuned a few times yearly to make sure you are getting the most out of them throughout the year. I’ve found that keeping up with the weather is the main thing with about any carb, especially on a performance engine. If you’re like me, I set my carb in the spring, about 80 degrees and mild humidity then I don’t really touch it the rest of the year. As the weather changes I can tell my car and truck perform a little differently, but not enough to do the tuning thing all the time.

Injection on the other hand is pretty much like what the car manufactures are putting out. With all the censers, and computer readings that take place every time you drive, the system is supposed to adjust itself and keep the engine at its best running capabilities. Synchronizing is the only thing I can see that might require “tuning” over time.

With both systems though, synchronizing is a must. It’s not that hard and once you grasp the concept, you can do it in about 15-20 minutes. Heck, if I can do it, anyone can.

All this said, the Webbers may be more original (not much ran injection back then) but it’s funny that most of the cars Shelby had running out there had carburetors on them. About the only time I remember seeing the Webbers was where the cars ran on long flat-out tracks like Daytona and Le Mans. On that note, look at how many of the GT40s ran carburetors at Le Mans.

Just my 2 cents.
 
#30 ·
Thanks Thumper. I really like Webers as do a lot of us but am worried about my cam. Forte built my engine and originally was going to install an E303 but when Jesse called me about my dyno results he told me he installed a "better" cam because they were out of stock of the other and of course I didn't ask at the time what he installed. Have spoke to Mike a couple times and he does not know so I have no idea of type or lobe separation angle and that I think kills Webers for me. Now looking at the 8stack solution.
 
#31 ·
From a post of mine on the GT40s.com site (because I'm lazy this morning)

weber/48 idf camshaft recommendations - GT40s.com

112 degrees sounds pretty good but maybe still a little too close.

Rollers are expensive only until you replace a couple of flat tappet cams, oil pumps, etc when they burn up on you.. Make sure you use a couple bottles of Zinc additive in your oil and low pressure valve springs for break-in.

Here's the Info / specs on the two cams - Notice the lobe Sep at 115 degrees;

DESCRIPTION:
Ford Sml Blk 289/302 FO - Inglese Cam Hydraulic Roller Series by COMP Cams®

Inglese™ Weber carburetors offer outstanding performance and throttle response, as well as an incredible underhood appearance. But until now no manufacturer had created camshafts designed specifically to optimize this classic high performance induction system. The new Inglese™ Weber Performance Camshafts by COMP Cams® are designed to enhance the power and drivability of these systems; Inglese™ having worked closely with the COMP Cams® engineering staff to create the most advanced camshaft designs possible. As a result, Inglese™ announces the creation of 16 hydraulic roller cams for Ford, Chevrolet and Chrysler engines.

The secret behind these camshafts is the strong vacuum and signal they create; key ingredients to delivering peak uncompromised Weber performance. While most camshafts are designed for plenum-type 4-barrel carbs or electronic fuel injection, the Inglese™ Weber Performance Camshafts by COMP Cams® were designed from a “clean sheet of paper” for the best performance and drivability possible. The new Inglese™ Weber Performance Camshafts by COMP Cams® are offered in two performance levels for each engine platform, including four popular Ford engines, Small and Big Block Chevrolet, as well as Small Block Chrysler engines.

SBF
----------------------- Dur @050 Lift w/1.6:1 Lobe Sep
31-490-8 272EHR15.... 216 218.... 0.566 0.555 115°
31-491-8 272EHR15.... 222 224.... 0.571 0.565 115°
---------------

When we Dynoed my engine it was the first one they had ever done with Webers that didn't have a lot of fuel reversion (there was none), spitting, popping..
I think the numbers that my engine made show that the combination works well.
My purpose for the car/engine is to have a well mannered and docile street vehicle that I actually enjoy driving. I have access to racecars for that other side of me that want's something totally boisterous and obnoxious to drive.. :)
I will add that you need to have some sort of filtration for these carbs. That gold colored screen between the trumpets is directly over the emulsion tubes air bleeds. If you get dirt in them, the carb will flatten out and will not perform correctly. I have "re-tuned" a number of Webers simply by cleaning these out with suction or removing the bleeds and blowing them clean.
 
#32 ·
Edelbrock Tri-Power setup

This is only my second post in 6 years, but I'll be picking my kit up at the end of March. I had intended on using edelbrocks new vintage series intake that support 2x3 edelbrock 94 carbs. Given the comments in the preceding threads, am I to expect issues in not having a modified cam? Mike F. will be doing the build for me, and I would like to know all the potential issues before I pull the trigger and have him start the build…. thanks….
 
#33 ·
This is only my second post in 6 years, but I'll be picking my kit up at the end of March. I had intended on using edelbrocks new vintage series intake that support 2x3 edelbrock 94 carbs. Given the comments in the preceding threads, am I to expect issues in not having a modified cam? Mike F. will be doing the build for me, and I would like to know all the potential issues before I pull the trigger and have him start the build…. thanks….
I don't really know much about these. Aren't they from about 1940 and made for flatheads (~100hp)? I know they make a SBF intake, but how much HP will they support? Maybe 6 of them can support 6x as much! Just my opinion, but they would look good on a hot rod, but the wrong vintage for a Cobra. If they float your boat, go for it. I think you will be blazing your own trail with these. I would call the Edelbrock tech line and talk to them about the cam, your CID, etc. Then I would call back and ask a different technician the same questions and see if their answers line up. Of course talk to Mike and see what he says.


Thanks Thumper. I really like Webers as do a lot of us but am worried about my cam. Forte built my engine and originally was going to install an E303 but when Jesse called me about my dyno results he told me he installed a "better" cam because they were out of stock of the other and of course I didn't ask at the time what he installed. Have spoke to Mike a couple times and he does not know so I have no idea of type or lobe separation angle and that I think kills Webers for me. Now looking at the 8stack solution.
If you are going in deep enough for Webers, don't let a $350 cam hold you back. Put in what a Weber expert tells you to.

And yes, I will be waaaay jealous. I love the look of Webers and stacks. I wouldn't be able to drive with them though. I would have my hood up and just stand there and drool.
 
#37 ·
Remember that when you open the "bonnet" and drool to be sure you don't drip into the stacks... >:)
 
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#39 ·
Very nice! The GT40 is another beautiful car.
 
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