Rattle can spray paint help? - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Rattle can spray paint help?

I continue to get 'banding' in my paint in the direction I'm moving the can back and forth. Another coat doesn't seem to help.

I'm trying to spray engine bay Aluminum with Rustoleum Hammered silver or Hammered Engine Paint (in proximity to exhaust). I lightly sand the panel with my DA and 80 grit, wipe with acetone, then treat with PreKote following their directions. I don't think these steps have anything to do with the problem I'm seeing. it's got to be how I'm applying the paint.

I'm painting with the Aluminum panels laid down flat over newspaper, with the can maybe 10" away from the panel. The can sputters if you hold it horizontal over the panel, so I keep it tilted a little. I'm sure this means there's thicker and thinner sections being laid down. I aim to get about 50% overlap with the previous stripe.

Anybody seen this, or have a tried-and-true method to avoid the problem? Is it as simple as hanging the panels vertically?

Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 07:47 PM
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I'm no expert, so maybe the Bat will chime in, but I'd say you try painting it with the aluminum standing up against a wall (or cardboard boxes).

Then you can hold your can straight (in relation to the aluminum) and you should get even coats across the whole spray pattern.


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 08:32 PM
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I always warm up my spray paint, by filling the sink with hot water then letting the can sit in it for 10 - 15 minutes. Helps the paint flow better.


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 08:34 PM
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Yes, place the panel vertical. If it has holes, hang it up. If the can is not held parallel to the surface, you will get uneven coverage. Also paint one coat horizontal, then another coat with vertical strokes.

80 grit is too coarse to use, just before painting. 220 is the coarsest I'd use. With urethane auto paint, it's either 320 or 400.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 11:26 PM
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Well! That about covers it....silver is heavy and likes to stripe. Move faster with 75% overlap (really fast) and let it flash real good before you hit it again in another direction BTW, why does Babb think I would know anything about "Spray Cans" I'M A ROLLER KINDA GUY !!...Ba tab......gimmme another paper bag and grab the gold paint . Lets see if we get the same bu.........hey, is this thing still on?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
I'M A ROLLER KINDA GUY !!...Ba tab......gimmme another paper bag and grab the gold paint . Lets see if we get the same bu.........hey, is this thing still on?
Yeah, rollers are great for stripes! No masking or anything!

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 01:21 AM
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I think the Hammer Finish has Silicon in it! Fish Eyes are what they call "Hammer".
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 12:35 PM
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With the hammered paint you need a couple of really thick coats. Start w/ two thin ones and then start laying it on as thick as you dare. Multiple thin coats won't show the hammered effect. Thicker = more hammered. I would prop your panels at about 45 degrees. Enough to get past the horizontal can drip but flat enough to allow thick coats.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 12:58 PM
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With the can and the surface at equal room temperature (not spraying in direct sunlight, nor in humid weather conditions), you'll want to spray several light coats, as Jeff has already stated, a 75% overlap is highly recommended to avoid "tiger striping".

Think of it as a giant tick tack toe board, spray left to right, then up and down, (45-90 degrees from each other pattern wise). Move quickly and overlap the spray pattern. Light coats set up quickly, multiple light coats will keep the paint from running, and the metallics from pooling. Build up as needed, but let each layer flash over for a few minutes, then start the next layer of paint.

If you have to, practice on a piece of plywood, until you get your overlap, and your pattern spraying down. Waste a can if you need to, after all, it's inexpensive spray paint.

Give it a shot (no pun intended), then get back to us on how you did, we can then go from there.



Bill S.

PS: Like Jeff, I suggest you wear a spray mask to avoid breathing in the fumes, the cape of course would be optional




Quote:
Originally Posted by initiator View Post
I continue to get 'banding' in my paint in the direction I'm moving the can back and forth. Another coat doesn't seem to help.

I'm trying to spray engine bay Aluminum with Rustoleum Hammered silver or Hammered Engine Paint (in proximity to exhaust). I lightly sand the panel with my DA and 80 grit, wipe with acetone, then treat with PreKote following their directions. I don't think these steps have anything to do with the problem I'm seeing. it's got to be how I'm applying the paint.

I'm painting with the Aluminum panels laid down flat over newspaper, with the can maybe 10" away from the panel. The can sputters if you hold it horizontal over the panel, so I keep it tilted a little. I'm sure this means there's thicker and thinner sections being laid down. I aim to get about 50% overlap with the previous stripe.

Anybody seen this, or have a tried-and-true method to avoid the problem? Is it as simple as hanging the panels vertically?

Thanks in advance.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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This is all good help, thanks everyone. I've got enough coats on my first panel that I'm probably going to have to strip it down and start again. Is there an easy way to do this without getting all chemical-y?

Also, about the initial sanding grit - since this is a hammered finish, is the initial grit really all that important? I would think that the coarser the grit, the better the paint bite. Up to a certain point, anyway. This isn't a gloss paint finish.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 11:55 PM
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I don't think the grit matters for what you're doing, should be fine.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Long-overdue feedback - the keys turned out to be getting the panel nearly vertical, 75% overlap, and move quickly. I was moving more slowly and overlapping less with results that just didn't look good. Using the plastic spray can trigger recommended by flaircraft also made a huge difference in my ability to move in straight, even strokes.

Thanks to everybody that helped out!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:16 PM
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Glad you got it. I have found that the 'Hammered' paint needs ever increasing coat thickness. I touch a masked area and, as soon as it is tacky, I spray the next coat. I did my VCs in black about a year ago and went for a super hammered effect. Happy w/ how it turned out w/ 6-7 coats.

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