EdwardB’s Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build - Page 15 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

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post #421 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 02:19 PM
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I did something very similar, except I mounted mine in a housing, which pretty much eliminates the 'direct' view of the LED. superbrightleds.com has aluminum housings ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-housing/2039/ ) for the LED strips. I GENTLY bent one to match the hoop bend, put some 3M double sided sticky foam tape on the back, and mounted it with 3 rivets just for good measure. The LED strip goes inside the aluminum housing, and then a nice plastic lens snaps in place to protect it. I actually did the same in the front and rear of the engine compartment.

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If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.

Bought a partially completed MK4
The Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439.
The Extra Stuff: Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands, Stainless Brake/Fuel Lines, Breeze shroud & Battery mount,
The Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch
The Young and Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi

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post #422 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Sneak Peak

The build is basically complete. Title and registration are still ahead, and finalizing adjustments like alignment, ride height, etc. Plus I actually will get to really drive it! But the build is done. No more parts and no more items on the list. Everything is working as it should. Dropped it off the jack stands and next step is a trailer ride to downtown Detroit Cobo Center on Thursday morning. Today I applied a coat of Zaino (what else?) Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish. Nothing like putting on a coat of polish and wiping it off to see your paint up close. All I can say is Rick just knocked it out of the park. Here are a few sneak peak pics. Still just garage lighting and a little natural light through the windows. I had the garage door open earlier in the day (60 and sunny, record for Michigan) and the sun hitting it takes it to another level. To say I’m happy with it is an understatement.





I’ll post some final pictures in the display from Autorama this coming weekend. Speaking of 60 degrees and sunny, cranked up #7750 and went for a nice cruise around noon. I don’t recall ever getting to do that in February. It ran and drove great like it always does. Can’t wait to do the same with #8674, but realistically that’s a couple months away at least.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #423 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 03:56 AM
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Paul,

I'm planning on Autorama on Saturday with friends. Your car is certainly the main reason to attend. Looking forward to seeing it again.

Looks stunning from the photos you've included.

Jim
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post #424 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 12:10 PM
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First of all - Fantastic car and build. Like a million others, I have been following from the beginning. Thank you for sharing all the details.

Question on the polish: my painter told me I should never have to apply anything to the paint, just dust it off and occasionally apply Meguiar's Quick Detail to a dirty spot and wipe it off. With yours just finishing paint, cut and buff, I'm curious about applying polish. Thoughts?
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post #425 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by smithbks View Post
First of all - Fantastic car and build. Like a million others, I have been following from the beginning. Thank you for sharing all the details.

Question on the polish: my painter told me I should never have to apply anything to the paint, just dust it off and occasionally apply Meguiar's Quick Detail to a dirty spot and wipe it off. With yours just finishing paint, cut and buff, I'm curious about applying polish. Thoughts?
Thanks. It's been fun sharing.

You'll get lots of answers and opinions about paint care. Especially new paint. Not everyone will agree with me, but here's my response. First, the shop that painted my car uses a booth and goes through several bake processes. I don't know the details, and I don't believe we're talking about highly elevated temps. But something more than just air dry. So I would be very careful to say my response only applies to my situation. Yours may not be the same. When I asked about applying product to the paint, my painter said do what I want. The finish was "fully cured." His words. This from a guy who's been painting for many years doing mostly custom work in high end shops. I like having sealant on the paint. Makes it easier to keep clean. The dust, etc. just rolls right off. I've used Zaino products for quite a while now, and really like the Z2 + ZFX additive. They called it a polish, but technically that's not the right term. It has no polishing characteristics (e.g. abrasives) but is strictly a sealant. So I agree with that point from your painter. No polish. I waited 3 weeks and did a Zaino Z2 application last weekend. I'm also really careful to use 100% cotton microfiber towels without any borders, tags, etc. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the same application on any paint finish. But I would wait longer in most cases. Whether you use a California duster, detail spray, whatever, it's much easier to keep clean plus looks amazing.

Obviously Zaino isn't the only game in town, and I'm not going to get into that debate. It just happens to be what I like after trying quite a few. There are lots of great products out there.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #426 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 01:07 PM
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I've mentioned it before, but want to say again that you've got such a Great Build, and Thank you for sharing it with us.

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.... But the build is done. No more parts and no more items on the list.
Selfishly though, I'm disappointed to read this. Every post from your thread has been very educational. I've appreciated your documentation and sharing what you've been learning/doing. You've eased the mod process by making the path that I can easily follow. Thank you.

No more parts and no more items on the list? darn.

Great Job. Wish I could attend the show.
Dave
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post #427 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Thanks. It's been fun sharing.

You'll get lots of answers and opinions about paint care. Especially new paint. Not everyone will agree with me, but here's my response. First, the shop that painted my car uses a booth and goes through several bake processes. I don't know the details, and I don't believe we're talking about highly elevated temps. But something more than just air dry. So I would be very careful to say my response only applies to my situation. Yours may not be the same. When I asked about applying product to the paint, my painter said do what I want. The finish was "fully cured." His words. This from a guy who's been painting for many years doing mostly custom work in high end shops. I like having sealant on the paint. Makes it easier to keep clean. The dust, etc. just rolls right off. I've used Zaino products for quite a while now, and really like the Z2 + ZFX additive. They called it a polish, but technically that's not the right term. It has no polishing characteristics (e.g. abrasives) but is strictly a sealant. So I agree with that point from your painter. No polish. I waited 3 weeks and did a Zaino Z2 application last weekend. I'm also really careful to use 100% cotton microfiber towels without any borders, tags, etc. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the same application on any paint finish. But I would wait longer in most cases. Whether you use a California duster, detail spray, whatever, it's much easier to keep clean plus looks amazing.

Obviously Zaino isn't the only game in town, and I'm not going to get into that debate. It just happens to be what I like after trying quite a few. There are lots of great products out there.
I have used the Zaino products for years and have great results with no adverse effects. 15 years ago or so they were about the only came in town, not so much anymore. Still use their stuff.
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post #428 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Detroit Autorama 2017 Pictures

We completed move-in yesterday, and today have everything set and polished. Show doesn't officially open for another hour, but there are a bunch of people here already. My location on the show floor is "OK" but not as good as the past. I have a vendor display on each side of me. But we're here and ready for three days, and I enjoy it a lot. With no commentary, here are a bunch of pictures. The floor is the Race Deck out of my old garage that I haven't had a chance to install in the new house yet. Worked out well and I didn't have to rent carpet. The very cool stanchions are from a fellow Great Lakes Cobra Club member, who made them up a couple years ago for his display. The bases are disk rotors, the posts are cams from a Terminator (not Coyote, but I'll make due...) and the tops he had made. Very cool and fitting for the display. Enjoy!













Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #429 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Detroit Autorama 2017 Pictures continued





Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #430 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 04:15 PM
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Very cool, I love how deep that red looks in the indoor lighting. A work of art....Now I've seriously got the itch to build one with a Coyote.

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post #431 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 04:23 PM
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She looks great Paul. I'm not a huge red fan but I like your choice and those black pin stripes was a great call by you as it really pulls it all together. Those are cool staunchions, they along with the flooring really looks good. Good luck and hope you have enough room for all the trophies.
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MKIV#8707, Picked-up 09/05/15, 351w, TK600, QF680, 15" Halibrands, PS, Wilwoods, Gas-N Headers & Sidepipes, Viking Blue with ith Wimbledon White stripes. First start 03/25/16. First go-cart 04/01/16. Registered and on the road 07/15/16! Painted 03/15/17.
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post #432 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 04:34 PM
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Paul,

Awesome car really came together extremely well, and I really like your display setup (very slick)! I too want to thank you for your build threads and your help and guidance when I have asked. You and your FFR car(s) are a class act. Best of luck!

I look forward to hearing/reading from you, when you know yourself, on how the LED lighting system performs/compares (especially the headlights). :-)
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post #433 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Detroit Autorama Weekend

Great weekend show at the Detroit Autorama. Met and talked to a bunch of people, including club and forum members. The new 20th Anniversary Roadster received a ton of very positive comments. The classic shape draws a crowd, with many comments and surprised looks seeing the Coyote in there. The most common question this time around was not of the usual “Is it real?” variety. Factory Five is really well known and most recognize it as a replica in a positive way. But I had a bunch of “How much did it cost?” questions. Tried to respond with ranges and how the build plan can affect the cost.

All good and a not too bad an ending. First place Handbuilt Sports.


Was happy our son came up from Texas and helped and hung out with Dad for the weekend. Sharon came for the Sunday festivities including the awards. Good times.


Everything is back home and the new Roadster parked back next to #7750. Now to collapse for a couple days.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #434 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 10:40 AM
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Congrats!!! Well deserved for an absolutely stunning build...
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Kit completion date: Jan 24, 2015
Delivery date: Feb 7, 2015
Coyote/TKO600, IRS

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post #435 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 10:57 AM
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Well deserved Paul! Congratulations!
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post #436 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 11:18 AM
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Congrats Paul! The roadster looked incredible! The attention to detail just jumps out as did the beautiful paint. Great job!!
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post #437 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Congrats Paul! The roadster looked incredible! The attention to detail just jumps out as did the beautiful paint. Great job!!
Thanks! Sorry we missed you. Had to run home for the trailer and wait in line for move out. One of the less glamorous parts of this show.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #438 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 01:06 PM
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Is this the headlight switch you are using?
American Autowire 500341 Headlight Switch with Aluminum Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VXLP7U..._kfdTybHBRF0RD
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post #439 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Is this the headlight switch you are using?
American Autowire 500341 Headlight Switch with Aluminum Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VXLP7U..._kfdTybHBRF0RD
Not exactly. Those parts from American Autowire look like the same thing, but I can't say for sure. I used an ACDelco D1588, which is just the raw switch, and the rest was from the kit. Including the connector on the Ron Francis harness and the knob/shaft. The headlight switch that comes with the kit is equivalent to the ACDelco D1588. I've just had slightly better experience with the genuine branded ACDelco part.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #440 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 02:50 PM
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Those talented hands built a beautiful car. Congrats on the trophy.

Glen

Coupe 0652-408W/510 hp-TKO600 .64OD-3.73 TractionLok-3 Link-26x10 front 26x12 15" Mickey Thompson-Heat and A/C- Complete Kit-First Start 7/10/15 First Go Kart 8/15/15 Painted 11/12/16 Titled and Registered 3/24/17 Legally on the road 4/20/17
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post #441 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:42 PM
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Great job Paul! I have used your last to build threads as the foundation for my recently completed roadster.
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post #442 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:42 PM
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Congratulations Paul; very well deserved.


John

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Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #443 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Time to Call it a Wrap

After 15 pages, 442 posts, and >50K views (over 150K views between the two forums, crazy), I'm going to shut this build thread down. The Roadster is 100% completely assembled with everything working as it should (so far!). I need to aim the headlights and do a final check on the alignment, but other than that it’s ready to drive and enjoy. I’ll get started on the Michigan inspection, title and license process right away and it should be ready in plenty of time for spring. Right now, we’re tentatively planning to attend the 2017 Factory Five Open House, and we’re already registered for the London Cobra Show. Plus our local club has a full schedule of events planned. Looking forward to all of that!

Yesterday while moving cars around in the garage, seemed moving the new Roadster required a brief run around the block in my neighborhood. First time with the body on and (obviously) with everything complete. I took it real easy because it’s far from legal and I really don’t want to find out if I have any grouchy neighbors. But it’s very obvious this is going to be an awesome runner and driver. Can’t wait.

It’s been a blast sharing this build. It had enough detail and some new things (Mustang IRS, Gen2 Coyote, plus some others) that it really generated a lot of interest and tons of posts, messages, calls, texts, etc. All good and it was fun sharing and helping where I could. Thanks to everyone for your positive comments, encouragement, and suggestions along the way. I agreed with most of them.

I want to share this in conclusion. During the just completed Detroit Autorama, one guy came up to me and told me he appreciated my build as much or more than any of the other builds “over there” while waving in the general direction of the extremely high end builds including the Ridler finalists. He said it was because he knew I did this as an amateur in my own garage with my own sweat and blood as opposed to the professional builds being displayed. I’m sure that many of the other 700+ cars that were there were also labors of love, and I don’t deserve to be even talked about in the same breath as the Ridler builds. Check the winner here: 2017 Detroit Autorama 1933 Ford Roadster Wins Ridler. Rumor was it cost over $5 million to build. Absolutely stunning to see in person. But I appreciated the compliment and sentiment very much. Many of the questions I had during the show about how much one of these builds costs completely misses the satisfaction and sense of accomplishment. My son bought this plasma cut steel sign for me from a vendor at the show. Very cool and it will find a place of prominence in my man cave. He didn’t know it, but it’s also a marketing phrase used by Factory Five. It captures the sentiment perfectly:


With that, I’m done with the build thread. It’s been quite a ride. The new Coupe is at the top of the list for another project, maybe to start next winter. This weekend, talked to a couple Ford guys and received just a couple of inside tips about the 2018 (Gen3?) Coyote. Could be an interesting combination. We’ll see. Thanks again everyone, and looking forward to meeting more of you in person.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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Last edited by edwardb; 02-28-2017 at 08:31 PM.
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post #444 of 470 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 08:19 PM
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CONGRATULATIONS!!!!! Validation for one of the best builds I've watched on these forums.
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post #445 of 470 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 05:20 AM
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Congratulations!! I have watched all of your builds Paul and you have done an outstanding job on this one. Your Roadster Looks Awesome! You make us all proud!!

Ed.
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FFR 7570, 402sr ROUSH 500HP, TKO 5 speed, Gordon Levy's Wilwood brakes, IRS 327gears Torsen Diff, Forte's Hydraulic Clutch, 15to1 AGR Power steering rack and lots.... LOTS more it never seems to end?

TEMPTATION: because willpower is no match for Horsepower!
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post #446 of 470 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 04:29 PM
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Paul,

Congratulations on the completion.

Your build threads and personal responses to my questions have been indispensable to my build. You have made me a better builder. I can not thank you enough!
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post #447 of 470 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Friday I received my second 50 pound shipment from Wilwood. The rear brakes. This is a milestone on two fronts. First, I now have the complete set of long awaited Anniversary Edition Wilwood brakes. Second, it’s the last item on my shortage and/or missing list for my kit. I am now officially 100% complete.

Just a couple words about this subject. I am a huge fan of Factory Five products (obviously) and have the highest respect for the company and their products. They’ve allowed me to do something I’ve always wanted to do, and have a final product that I’m proud to own and a blast to show and drive. But I think they have room for improvement in the order fulfillment and delivery process. I fully realize the Anniversary Edition has some unique parts plus it is (I think) the first customer deliveries of the new 2015 Mustang IRS setup. So some shortages and delays maybe could be expected. But I was honestly pretty surprised when I saw the length of the backorder list when I picked up my kit, then added some items that were missing or just plain not accounted for. Everyone at FF was super friendly and helpful during every phone call and/or email. But it’s been six months since I ordered my kit, and four plus months since I picked it up. IMO that's really not acceptable. Especially the extended delays and missed promises for the Wilwood brakes. And they require 100% payment up front before taking delivery on anything. Hmm... But now it’s finally complete. I’m confident this will soon be a distant memory, and forgotten entirely once the build is completed. Owning and driving one of these will do that to you. But especially for first-time customers, this all has to be pretty disappointing. I spent my career doing multiple business continuous improvement projects. I would suggest this is something FF may want to focus on. Premium freight alone has to be significant. OK, enough about that. And I don’t want to turn my build thread into a rant on this subject. For me it’s done. I know there are others still waiting for a number of parts. Hopefully you too will soon get to this point.

After completing the front brakes a couple weeks ago, the rear brakes went together very quickly. Again, the parts and instructions from Wilwood were top notch. Everything fit perfectly, and exactly like the instructions. I was interested (and maybe a little nervous) about the bracketry for the 2015 Mustang IRS knuckles, but it was fine. Not much to do except post some pictures.

The rears also use a separate rotor and hat assembly that is bolted together and optionally safety wired. I chose to do the safety wires like on the fronts. Getting a little better at it I guess. At least a little faster. Took me about an hour for each rotor and hat. The rotors are the same diameter as the fronts, but slightly thinner. The hats are different too. Different offset and don't require the adapter rings for the hub.


Shims are used to center the 4-piston caliper to the rotor, and also the height of the caliper on the mounting bracket. All was easy to set up just like described in the instructions. The rears use a separate parking brake caliper. So it’s quite an assembly when completed.




I routed the e-brake cables per the instructions, and looks OK to the rear mounting holes. I’m going to look for alternatives to going under the 4 inch tube to the handle. Still can’t get my head around that, even though I know many do it and it’s fine. The instructions don’t specifically say where to mount the chassis end of the flex hoses, but I could kind of see them in some of the pictures and ended up (I think) in the same locations. This should provide easy enough access to the brake lines.


I had to drag out one of the 18 inch rear wheels to check the clearance and also just see what it looked like on there. Clearance all good. They are huge though.



Earlier this week, I pretty much finished up all the cooling lines, vacuum, and PCV hoses on the front of the Coyote. Here you can see the crossover from the inlet to outlet of the heater connections. Ford Racing recommends if not using a heater (I’m not) to connect the two with a 5/16 inch restrictor in the line. I received the Gates quick connects mentioned in my last post and made up the hose. Wasn’t sure what to do for a restrictor. I ended up with a 3/4 inch long steel bushing from the hardware store that I drilled out to 5/16 inch and put in the hose held by the clamp pictured. I also completed the hose from the water neck to the top of the expansion tank. This is the one I mentioned in my last update that wasn’t available anywhere from Ford. Easy enough to make up, except that the water neck connection was 5/16 ID, and the tank 3/8 ID. So searched around and found an adapter and it’s done. I also made up the PCV hose to the bottom of the Spectre intake on the DS, and decided to re-do the PS with the same hose and placing the JLT Performance oil separator a little more neatly.


Here you can see the connections I made to the Spectre intake. The top one is for the CMCV system, and the lower one (just visible, sorry) is the DS PCV line. I used connectors from JLT Performance mentioned in some other Coyote build threads. They are aluminum, and fit into a rubber grommet in the intake. I used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV when installing them. Seems to work perfectly. The factory connectors clip right on.


All those hoses and such look pretty messy. No way to make things very pretty. That I can figure out anyway. Looks a little better with the cover in place.


Just a few more details to wrap up on the engine. Mainly power steering and then a final decision about battery location. Then it will be back out so I can finish installing all the aluminum panels. Right now doesn’t appear that I will have any space issues in the front of the engine. But it’s sure busy in there. Onward!
I have the same wilwood rear break setup but my e-brake spring seems to be too weak to fully disengage the e-brake. Did you experience this?
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post #448 of 470 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
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Originally Posted by aarvig View Post
Edward, I absolutely love the dash work you do on your Factory Fives. It looks like you use some scrap aluminum angle to secure the dash to the top tube. Is that right? How are you attaching the angle to the dash and then how do you secure it to the top tube? On the bottom of or top of (hung) the tube?
Thanks. I prefer not to put screws through the front, first because of appearance and second because they can get covered up with the body. Strictly a personal preference. I've seen several builds do something similar as this, so can't say it's 100% original. Came up with it during my first build and have repeated for the others. It's not exactly scrap aluminum. It's 1 inch right angle aluminum from HD or Lowes (don't remember...) cut into 1-1/2 inch lengths and trimmed to 3/4 inch wide on the dash hoop side. I attach them to the dash with flat head screws before the covering is applied. Just make sure to fill the holes dead flat or they could picture through to the dash. I place them where they're accessible from the bottom. I rivet 10-32 nut plates to the bottom of the 3/4 inch tube, and hold in place with 10-32 cap screws. I've not had to take a dash back out (yet!) but it would be easy enough to do if necessary.
What do you use for lower dash support? These lower mounts look thicker than .040 and seem to have curved edges to reduce flex. What distance do you have between dash and crossbar for these supports?
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post #449 of 470 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cobraAZ View Post
I have the same wilwood rear break setup but my e-brake spring seems to be too weak to fully disengage the e-brake. Did you experience this?
No. Once the handle and cables were installed, and hooked up to the rear e-brakes, they have always worked perfectly. Immediately disengage when the handle is released. I found these particular e-brake calipers don't use much cable movement. Basically tightening the cable (versus being slack) and they lock up. One difference might be the way I have the cable routing. As I showed in the build thread, I didn't go under the frame tubing. I went through pulleys above the frame tubing. There is little to no drag on the cables. Maybe that makes a difference? I don't know. Just a guess. Others who installed them as FF shows may have a different experience than mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobraAZ View Post
What do you use for lower dash support? These lower mounts look thicker than .040 and seem to have curved edges to reduce flex. What distance do you have between dash and crossbar for these supports?
The lower dash supports are three pieces of .040 aluminum that I made. Ends are 3-1/2 inches wide with LED downlights installed. The center brace is 9 inches wide and has a couple switches and aux outlets installed on it. I did put bends on the outside edges to make them stiffer. Left them about an inch long on each side, bent a right angle using my 30-inch HF brake, then trimmed off all but about 1/8-inch. Makes a big difference. They're attached to the top of the 2-inch dash tube and the underside of the dash on the bend. It's 5-3/4 inches from the face of the 2-inch tube to the outside of my dash. Pretty much the natural angle the dash takes when attached to the upper dash tube.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. Deliv: 08/05/2015. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. Red/white club for the third time.
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post #450 of 470 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 01:36 PM
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Did you install the PCM above the PS footbox instead of through PS firewall only because you have a glove box?
I am planning no glove box but just a heater and am wondering if PCM can fit below heater through PS firewall.
I also may install wiper motor but not sure yet.
I am in AZ so I am concerned about heating of the PCM if left fully in the engine bay.
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