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EdwardB�s Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

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#1 · (Edited)
EdwardB’s Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

*** 5,000 mile report posted 06/19/019. Direct link: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/6064898-post491.html ***

Time to get rolling on another build thread. After a 1,680 mile round trip from Michigan to Wareham, as of August 6, 2015, Mk4 #8674 is now sitting in our garage. This is a 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4, number 03 of 20. This will be my third Roadster build, but a significant first. This is the first build where I am the original owner and taking delivery directly from Factory Five. The first two were purchased from their first owners as partial builds. The Mk3 had a good head start by a pro builder, so a great introduction. The Mk4 was only several months started, so almost like a new build. But time to go it alone from the very beginning. Plus Michigan gave me a really tough time the last go around without my name on the Certificate of Origin. So not going there again.

I thoroughly enjoy driving the completed Roadsters, going to car shows, and cruising whenever I get the chance. Absolutely a blast. The social aspect is great too, with our local club, the extended forum and Factory Five community, etc. But I also really enjoy the whole learning, planning and building process. Each time the builds were completed, I found myself missing the building. With my retirement earlier this year, it didn’t take long to realize another build was something I wanted to do. After some studying (and soul searching) decided it had to be another Roadster, and just to change it up a little spent quite a bit of time planning a 289 FIA build. I was ready to order one during the 50/50 sale several months ago. But then the 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4 was announced, and I was immediately hooked. I called and ordered it while at a rest stop in New York on the way to this year’s Factory Five open house, just minutes after it was made available for purchase. The plan is to sell #7750 when the new build is completed. #7750 is in it's first driving season this year, and now all sorted out and truly a pleasure to own and drive. Frankly, I can’t imagine letting go of it. But that’s the deal, and I’m sticking to it.

So let’s get down to the new non-donor build. The planned use is almost exclusively street cruising. The overall theme is a classic look and feel with completely modern mechanicals and premium driving. Because of the fully optioned anniversary edition, many aspects are already defined. Some of the specifics: Grey powder coat chassis, white powder coat on underhood panels and footboxes (intended to simulate the fiberglass of the originals), balance will be grey powder coat to match the chassis. 2015 Mustang IRS with 3.55 cast iron center section, FFR front spindles, front and rear sway bars, 13 inch front and rear Wilwood manual brakes, Wilwood pedal box with hydraulic clutch, engine driven power steering with 3.0 turn rack, upgraded Koni double-adjustable shocks, 18 inch FF Halibrand style wheels, new Coyote engine with footbox mods to maximize space, Stainless headers, GAS-N side pipes, TKO600 trans with Liberty’s shift mods, leather Roadster seats, Lizard Skin insulation, competition dash (tentatively) with glovebox, Speedhut gauges with GPS speedo, seat heaters, Breeze front battery, dropped floor in trunk, wipers, bumpers and overriders. Undecided about a heater. Haven't done one yet, and haven't missed it. But maybe it's time.

That’s probably enough for now. I’m planning a number of the little mods and touches learned from the first two builds, and maybe some new ones along the way. Notably absent will be a sound system. Spent a lot of time on that with my last build, and find it not very practical. One of my goals is to have a really clean Coyote installation. Not easy with all the wires and hoses. I’ve seen some really great examples. I’ll see how I can do. Color is still undecided. I’m kind of stuck on red, and could easily do that again. But looking at some other options as well. It will have stripes. I’m going to take my time. This isn’t a race. Plus even though I’m retired and have more time than before, I also have other things going on. I’m expecting a roughly two year build, like the first two.

There are 19 items on the backorder list. Many are minor, and won’t hold anything up. A couple others (front spindles, IRS parts) I’ll be watching closely. I’ve completed my inventory. I had a few missing and wrong parts. But not bad and I’m expecting will be quickly addressed. Probably my biggest observation, and I won’t say much at this point, is that I think I might be one of the first people to tackle the new 2015 Mustang IRS. I saw it in person at the Open House, and it’s really impressive and I think will make a great build. But it’s early for FF too. I’ll report more about it in the build thread as progress is made. I do already have the center section, knuckles and hubs on hand and ready to install. Talked about that in this thread: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fa...81-2015-mustang-irs-components-so-begins.html.

Going through everything, I'm generally pretty pleased. The windshield is now marked as made in Taiwan. The last two were from China. I wonder if they've changed vendors? It seems decent quality with everything nice and tight and clean. The new wheels are noticeably improved over the previous ones. The new tooling and new vendor has produced some nice parts. But those 18 inchers are huge! We'll see how that all turns out. The chassis looks good. The grey powder coating isn't real glossy, but it's nice. It seems they may have done some extra work prepping it before PC. I don't see much weld spatter. At least in many of the obvious places. Having a whole box of white PC'd panels before doing any fitting or drilling is different. I'll need to take care of those. The body looks good. All the panels match up OK at the parting lines. The new front quick jack mount brackets are interesting. I'll still do my usual grommet installation, but now even more to hold things up. I've got the newer style front UCA's. In general, interesting to see how they continue to make interim improvements to the same version. All good I think.

In the true spirit of no pictures it didn't happen, here are a few of pics of the delivery process.

From another forum member who saw my car in final assembly. Mine's on the RH side:

On the rack and ready to go:

Parking with the big dogs at a rest stop in New York on our way to Factory Five:

Loading onto the frame cart:

In she goes:

Me looking a little sweaty, while my wife does her best Vanna White impression. Factory Five posted this pic on their Facebook page:

Safely back in Michigan, ready to roll back out:

Yes, we used every inch:

Home in the garage:

Just a few boxes. All are in the basement now:


Here's the new IRS chassis setup, before anything installed. I suspect many will be interested to see this:


Here is a slideshow of all the pics taken during the delivery process, if you want to sit through them all: Delivery Slideshow by edwardb123 | Photobucket

I’ll take the body off and start dis-assembly of the rest of the panels next week, in and around Woodward Dream Cruise activities. I’m going to store the body off-site this time around, rather than having it on an elevated buck like my last two builds. I won't miss the head bumping and sore back working under that thing. I’ll get the frame up on the 2-post and start plugging away. Stay tuned for much more!
 
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#41 ·
Hi Ed. Is it me or is there no way those rod ends can unscrew from each other without a catastrophic failure? Like if a swaybar snaps and spins around like a tailrotor? :balloon:
Right guys. No possible way for the rod ends to unscrew short of something breaking. My thought process with the Loctite was to remove the very slight amount of play between the two pieces. Always amazed at some of the little things that get noticed and discussed. It's all good.
 
#39 ·
#42 ·
I was looking at the Aeromotive 13129. Couple of minor differences but similar. The instruction sheet for the 13129 doesn't have a chart for line sizes. But I'm convinced. 3/8 inch feed and return for my build.
 
#43 ·
I'm going to do that too while its up on jack stands, instead of waiting until winter.
 
#45 ·
Many have said that, Howard; so I'm thinking there may another issue, hopefully a bad ground. Having ensured ground, I'll plug away with the lighter pump and new lines anyway.

Thanks, and Cheers
 
#47 · (Edited)
IRS Assembly Completed

This is a pretty important update. As the title says, the IRS installation is completed. A big milestone. The last few days have been good for backordered parts delivery. Received the upper and lower control arms and other misc stuff last week. Received the CV axles yesterday. Very nice pieces from The Driveshaft Shop. And the last pieces of hardware today. So no more excuses. I have one single item left on my backorder list, and that’s the Wilwood brakes. Pretty major item, but I can proceed for now. My understanding is they’re in production, but I don’t have an ETA.

Before getting into the IRS, a couple of other bits of progress while I was waiting for parts. I worked on my dash some. I was able to sell the provided assembled dash. It was nice enough, but a street layout and I really want the competition layout. So I have a blank dash and the first thing was to copy the layout from my current Mk4 to the blank. I spent a long time laying that out a couple years ago, focusing on not just the competition layout but also sight lines, ergonomics, etc. After driving this season, there’s nothing I would change. I like it a lot. So I’m starting there. Still have some decisions to make, like oil temp in or out, what indicator lights, can I do (or even need) a fan override with the Coyote ECU, etc. So I’ll decide those things before finalizing the layout. I will be doing a glove box. But still looking at options for that and the covering material. Also started fabbing the dash braces I’ll use. This is similar to my first two builds. A small one on each end that will also contain down lights for the footwells. And a larger one in the center that will have 12V outlets, various switches, and stuff mounted on the top side. They’ll be riveted to the two inch tube at the front, and attached to the dash edge with nutserts (what else?) through the bottom. These three make the dash quite solid, but still leave it open enough for some access if needed. Note the one by the steering column is not in the final location. It will be at the end of the dash. I have to notch it around some things still.



The next thing I worked on was the radiator with cooling fan and shroud. In an earlier update I described getting the shroud ready. I sent it out for powder coat along with several other parts. They were able to match the silver/grey of the chassis very nicely. Just the other day we received the actual brands and codes for the Anniversary powder, so I’ll be checking into that before committing to all the aluminum panels. But for now, pretty good. I mounted the fan to the shroud, and then added the radiator. Then mounted in the chassis using the Breeze lower radiator mount. All quite straightforward. I mounted the radiator in the center of the opening. Did the same thing on my last build. The manual says 5/8 inch over toward the DS, but it doesn’t need to be IMO. This was discussed a bit in another thread the last few days. Won’t repeat it all here. Two small hints. While it’s likely OK, I think it’s a good idea to add a little cushion to the top mounting locations. I used some pieces of neoprene on my last build. That was OK. But this time used some tubing I had on hand. Just slightly thicker but not quite so hard as the neoprene. Slit the tubing and wrapped it around the front and bottom, held on with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Then trimmed to fit. Turned out good and provides just a little “give” in the top mounting. The other thing to watch for is a slight interference between the radiator tank assembly and the mounting tube on the PS. You could go ahead and mount it that way, but the already pretty narrow mounting available on the radiator top would become even smaller because the radiator would be slightly lower on that side. I just undercut an angle on the mounting tube and it fits better I think. Did the same thing on my last build. You can see it in the close-up pic.




You can also see in these pictures I assembled and temporarily placed the hood hinges. More fill-in work. I'll either paint or PC them later. Just a couple words about those. I believe all the steel parts (along with the aluminum panels) are laser cut. Really nice clean and precise parts. But the steel ones especially are left with pretty sharp edges. Plus seems that every part has one or two little “nibs” where I’m assuming the laser starts and stops and holds the part from falling out of the sheet. But those things can be nasty and can lead to unplanned blood donations. (Ask me how I know). Do yourself a favor and spend a little time with a file and some emery cloth and clean up the parts during assembly. For the hood hinges, I didn’t use the wavy washers. First time I’ve seen those. The best way I’ve found to assemble the hood hinges using the shoulder bolts is with two 3/8 inch ID washers for each bolt. One under the head of the bolt, then the hinge pieces and bushing oriented properly, then another 3/8 inch ID washer. There should be just a little of the bolt shoulder remaining, and make sure the washer fits over that shoulder. Then add the nut and tighten to suit. Works perfect. I was able to find enough washers in my junk drawer to get the job done. You need to be selective to get the right thickness. Same for the trunk hinges and also the doors. Although I found the doors are assembled fine from the factory and I’m not doing anything to them. If you look really close in the pictures (and I know some of you do!) you’ll notice I don’t have the lock nuts on the hood hinges. Or radiator for that matter. I have a supply of 5/16 and 3/8 inch plain nuts (the most common sizes), and do a lot of the mock-up with those. I don’t use the actual lock nuts until final assembly. Easier plus reduces wear on the lock nuts so they can do their job.

One other update. As mentioned early in this thread and in another separate thread, I purchased a complete “zero miles take-off” 2015 Mustang IRS assembly, including not only the parts required for the build, but also the stock CV axles, upper and lower control arms, even the actual frame assembly. I was hoping to sell the leftover stuff and recover a little money. No luck so far. Had them on Craigslist for a couple weeks with zero responses. Hard to believe with Craiglist. No spam or anything. Just finished a 7 day no reserve eBay action for each. Had quite a few lookers and watchers, but only one sale. A pair of lower control arms for 99 cents. Good grief. What a waste. I’ll throw the stuff in my “not used” pile and see what happens I guess. One thing I did notice though. The CV axles I received yesterday from Factory Five, while shorter (and beefier) than the stock ones, have the same exact ends as the stock axles I have. Same FoMoCo laser markings and part numbers. So at the very least these could be spare parts if ever needed.

Related to this, I happen to run across that Ford Racing is now selling the 2015 Mustang center sections and knuckles/hubs separately. Four months ago I couldn’t find anything other than service parts or the zero mile take-offs I ended up using. Google M-4001-88355. That’s the Ford Racing part number for a 3.55 cast iron center section. List just over $1k. Available multiple places for a bit less. M-4001-88373T is the 3.73 cast iron Torsen center section. List over $2K. Expensive piece. The knuckles with hubs are Ford Racing part number M-5970-M. List price a little over $500. Availability on those looks to be a little limited. Interesting for both the center sections and knuckles the Ford Racing pages specifically say “Can be used in kit car custom builds.” So looks like the market might be catching up. Posting this because I know some reading this thread may be looking at a future 2015 Mustang IRS build.

Ok, so finally to the actual IRS assembly update. Last week I received my upper and lower control arms. I was still missing a few of the bolts, but was able to assemble everything into the chassis using some temporary hardware in a couple places. Everything works, and it turned out great. But a couple things I learned and offer as recommendations. I’ve tried it both ways, and have decided I like to grease these large poly bushing/sleeved joints BEFORE assembly. Once the joint fills with grease and squirts out around the little holes between the bushing and the sleeve, I’m now 100% sure they’re properly lubed. I smear that little extra grease on the bushing end, and it makes it way easier to assemble. For the most part, everything fits really tight. Some adjustment of the tabs might be necessary before anything will go in. I have a big Ford wrench (how many know what that is?) I got from my grandfather that works great for adjusting the mounting tabs. A big adjustable (Crescent) wrench also works. Just make sure the jaws are clean and tight before applying any pressure. Then you won't damage or mark the powder coat. I found the upper control arms especially tight to get in place. A dead blow hammer doesn’t hurt sometimes either. I found those tapered pins I made to install the center section, mentioned in an earlier update, work GREAT for helping to line up pieces as they were getting close. Drive the taper through, everything centers, and then the bolt almost pushes in. I’m saving those things. Also had to adjust the lengths slightly on a few of the supplied sleeves. All pretty normal stuff. I followed the assembly sequence exactly as described in the instructions, and torqued when they said to. The CV axles also went in just the way the instructions said. It took a little bit of a bump with the dead blow to get the inner retaining ring to click into place. Today I received the last pieces of hardware, so installed those and final torqued and marked everything. The only thing remaining is the axle nut. I ran it down with my puny air impact wrench. But I won’t be able to get the final tightness until I have some brakes or the drivetrain installed to hold it. I did make one very small change. When I installed the rear sway bar, the two threaded together rod ends were at a pretty sharp angle vs. straight up and down when the suspension was level. So I trimmed the one longer bushing by 1/8 inch, and added another 1/8 spacer on the other side. Much better. It’s not very much. Maybe just the tolerance of the bends in the sway bar.

I’ve had a couple questions about the two lower cross-axis joints in the Mustang knuckles. They are not replaced, but used as is. The main joint (the rear one) fully pivots and turns. Like a Heim joint. It appears to be a heavy duty and well made piece. The toe arm joint (the front one) is some type of elastomer, and just flexes once bolted down. It’s pretty large and flexible. The instructions clearly state to torque the bolt down with the suspension in the level position. Makes sense. You can feel some resistance from the joint when moving the suspension up and down. The top joint is the bolted in large rod end showing in the pictures, which comes with the kit. Hope this all makes sense. I’m learning about this stuff for the first time.

So here are some pics. Really not much else to say. I think it turned out great and looks really good. Looks an awful lot like what we saw at Factory Five during the open house. But makes a difference when it’s really your car. Everything turns nice and smooth. Just need to remember to add fluid at some point.

Passenger side from rear. Note in all the pictures the suspension is drooping, as it would with the chassis on the lift. The final position is the upper control arm and CV axles level, and the lower control arm pointed slightly down. Note also I haven’t done anything with alignment yet.


Passenger side from front. Note the large adjuster for camber. The toe adjustment is a little harder to see on the inner part of the lowest arm. Note none of these have to be disassembled for adjustment. Just loosen the jam nuts and adjust in place.


Driver’s side from rear. Looks kind of like the passenger side.


Entire IRS from back.


Looking up.


Closer look at the passenger side from the bottom. Can see the toe arm adjustment a little better here.


Well that’s it. Pretty cool. Tomorrow I’m going to be finalizing my Coyote engine order. That’s next up.
 
#48 ·
Edward, I'm at the same point with my dash. Could you post up a closer picture of your layout with some basic dimensions? Nice write up.
I'm thinking of Alex's glove box again, or build my own if I can find the right hinges, felt instead of foam backing and the Alsport 4 way stretch vinyl for covering.
 
#52 · (Edited)
Edward, I'm at the same point with my dash. Could you post up a closer picture of your layout with some basic dimensions? Nice write up. I'm thinking of Alex's glove box again, or build my own if I can find the right hinges, felt instead of foam backing and the Alsport 4 way stretch vinyl for covering.
I've been asked about this before, so took a few minutes this morning to collect the dimensions. All horizontal (H) measurements are from the steering column center line in inches. All vertical (V) measurements are from the uncovered dash bottom in inches.

Oil PSI: 3.71 H, 3.64 V
Water temp: 1.18 H, 5 V
Tach: 4.86 H, 4.20 V
Fog light switch: 3.57 H, 1 V
Headlight switch: 4.86 H, 1 V
Ignition switch: 8.5 H, 1 V
Horn button: 8.5 H, 3 V
Speedometer: 12.25 H, 3 V
Volts: 9.1875 H, 6.625 V
Oil temp: 12.0375 H, 6.625 V
Fuel: 14.8875 H, 6.625 V
Clock: 17.74 H, 6.625 V
Edge of glove box opening: 21 H
Indicator lights: As desired, centered between Oil PSI and Water temp
Toggle switches: As desired, right of speedo, 3 V
Seat heaters (!): Centered under toggles, 1 V

This is a picture of the completed dash from my last build, and per the above dimensions. As stated, plan to duplicate the basic layout in this build. One of the big differences between this and a pure competition layout is the tach is moved to the left some. In this location, it's visible (for me anyway) behind the steering wheel. The location of the horn button is on purpose as well. It's pretty much right under your fingers from the steering wheel. Not shown is the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly (so no toggle on the dash for that) and I used the momentary switch on the stalk for flash to pass and high beams. The LED indicators are high beam (blue), L and R turn signal (green) and fan running (orange). The toggle switches are (L-R) fan override, wipers, and hazards. Under the edge of the dash, not shown, is the knob for the instrument lighting dimmer near the headlight switch, and a momentary pushbutton under the speedo for trip reset, calibration, etc. I put the momentary pushbutton for the clock inside the glovebox. I too am considering Alex's setup again, but would like a slightly different hinge arrangement. Thinking about maybe a leather covering and making my own glove box with a piano hinge door, similar to the originals. We'll see. Hope this helps!

 
#50 · (Edited)
I assume you mean how narrow the attachments are on the chassis? Yea, I wonder about that too. Already had that discussion with someone else. It's how the prototype was set up and tested. Right out of the original press release from FF. Factory Five Launches 2015 Independent Rear Suspension Option. Something different would present some interesting mounting challenges. Not going to even think about it.
 
#54 ·
When you get into mating the Coyote wiring harness with the FFR supplied chassis and dash bundles, the instructions give you details on a number of ways of controlling the cooling fan. As well as an option for a manual on/off switch on the dash.
I decided to not bother with the manual switch and wired my system so the Coyote ECM controlled the cooling fan on/off. This has worked out well. The ECM has never forgot the switch on the fan, where I'm sure if was left up to me I would have experienced a few overheats. I'd rather focus on other things than controlling fan on/off.
Do you find the yellow "fan on" indicator useful? I can generally tell when my fan comes on as it's a noisy brute.
 
#55 ·
When you get into mating the Coyote wiring harness with the FFR supplied chassis and dash bundles, the instructions give you details on a number of ways of controlling the cooling fan. As well as an option for a manual on/off switch on the dash. I decided to not bother with the manual switch and wired my system so the Coyote ECM controlled the cooling fan on/off. This has worked out well. The ECM has never forgot the switch on the fan, where I'm sure if was left up to me I would have experienced a few overheats. I'd rather focus on other things than controlling fan on/off. Do you find the yellow "fan on" indicator useful? I can generally tell when my fan comes on as it's a noisy brute.
My builds so far have used the built-in fan circuit in the Ron Francis harness controlled by a thermostatic switch on the engine. So the fan operation is automatic. The switch is just a manual override in case you want to switch it on even though the automatic circuit isn't calling for it. To be honest, I've never found it necessary to use. So I have no problem leaving it off the Coyote build. I wouldn't want a manual only one either. The fan running indicator light is nice, and I probably will duplicate that. Just two leads across the fan motor will light it. No way could I hear the cooling fan on my previous builds if the engine was running.
 
#56 ·
You will be surprised at the sound level of the Coyote at idle through the Gas-N sidepipes. Although it's comfortable, it doesn't give bystanders the impression you have close to 500 ponies waiting to jump from the starting gate. Almost like a sleeper.

BTY, I'm terribly envious of this 20th Anniversary model. I must set myself up for the Silver Anniversary model in 4 years. Screw the exchange rate.
 
#60 · (Edited)
Coyote in the House

I’ve now received my Coyote engine, so lots to share there. But first a bit of unfinished business on the IRS. I know there are many options, but I chose to fill with the exact Ford recommended gear lube and friction modifier. Didn’t see the Motorcraft products on the shelf at any of my local parts stores, so stopped at the local Ford dealer. He said they don’t normally stock the 75W-85 weight. I mentioned that was specified by Ford for the 2015 Mustang IRS, and he responded they haven’t replaced the gear lube in too many of those yet. OK I guess… Anyway, he ordered what I needed. At the same time, I ordered the Mustang vent tube for the center section. How to handle the vent isn’t mentioned anywhere in the FF instructions. The Mustang piece is maybe a little too long, but has the right size right angle connecter to plug onto the center section, and then a plastic vent at the other end, similar to the metal vent used on the 8.8 solid axle I’m familiar with. Once the stuff arrived, I put the first quart of gear lube in, then the 3+ ounces of friction modifier, and then topped off ending up using about 3.3 pints as specified. Once again I was reminded how much that friction modifier stinks! (My wife noticed very quickly as well.) Took about a day for the garage to air out.

These are the products recommended by Ford. Easy enough to find in Mustang specs. Also listed at the end of the FF IRS instructions.


This is the Ford part number for the Mustang vent tube assembly. It’s only $10-12.


Just mocking up how it might be used, this is plugged onto the center section and routed over to the PS.


I’m thinking of tie-wrapping it to the fuel tank vent tube that will come up in this same area in the wheel well. That’s where the Mustang routes it. Would be easy to shorten.


OK, now to the Coyote adventure. Some months ago when I planned and budgeted this build, using FF’s Coyote instructions, other build threads, etc. I planned all the parts necessary, including of course the engine itself. I had several sources in mind to buy it from, mainly shopping price to be honest. When I was ready to click the button to purchase last week, the first place I went said “Ford Coyote M-6007-M50 no longer available, replaced with M-6007-M50A.” Went to a number of sites and found the same message, although some with the M-6007-M50 still available in limited quantities. Turned out what I was seeing, and I guess I must be living under a rock, is that Ford made some pretty significant changes starting in 2015, and M-6007-M50A is the 2015-2016 Coyote motor. I immediately noted it has more HP and torque, so no complaints there. Then I found they have released a brand new control pack M-6017-504V for the 2015-2016 engine, which is mandatory. The 2011-2014 engine won’t work with the new control pack and the 2015-2016 won’t work the old control pack.

So, after all said and done, I found a great price for the 2015-2016 engine, control pack, engine covers, alternator and starter package, including free lift gate home delivery, and placed my order last Thursday. After a little back and forth discussion, received notice that it shipped on Friday. Monday it was at the freight company, and Tuesday morning it was in my garage. Now that’s service! Turns out (and I didn’t know any of this) Coyotes are made in Ford’s Essex engine plant, which is right across the river from me in Windsor, Canada. Goes from there to the Ford Racing distribution center in Livonia, MI, also pretty close to me. So it never had very far to go. BTW, the place I bought the engine is not a forum vendor, but I recommend them. They were very interested in my project, patiently made sure I had exactly what I needed, and asked me to send a picture when it’s done. Cool! PM me if you want more details.

Just a few words about the 2015-2016 Coyote engine. I am far from a Coyote expert. I’m learning as I go here. It’s rated at 430 HP and just over 400 torque. In the Roadster with the revised intake and straight tube headers, should get a good bump from those numbers. I think it will be enough. Some of the changes to the 2015-2016 engine are bigger heads and valves. Apparently similar to the Boss heads but in cast form. A revised crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and a couple internal changes to the block. A major addition is charge motion control valves (CMCV) added to the intake manifold. This was something used before on 3V mod motors, as I understand, and one of the first performance modifications was to remove them. Ford claims these were done right on the Coyote, and get totally out of the way when open. They are supposed to provide better low-end torque without affecting high rpm power. I understand this also allowed some changes in how the variable cam timing works. All interesting stuff (I guess) but I think it’s cool my anniversary edition with the latest 2015 Mustang IRS now will also have the latest Mustang powerplant. The flip side is what might be the implications of the change as I go down a path not travelled yet for these builds (that I know of). I’ll detail what I’ve found out so far. Mostly OK (I think…).

The engine arrived crated and boxed as many have seen. First time for me seeing a Coyote outside of an engine compartment. Interesting. And HUGE.



Right off the bat, noticed they added an oil cooler to the oil filter location. After checking with some other builders, confirmed there’s no way this will fit. Good news is that it was easily removed. It’s just sitting on top of the normal oil filter location with an extended adapter hold it in place. Side note: It’s a $300+ dollar part! I’m taking a run at eBay to see if the Mustang crowd will take it off my hands.


Next order of business was to get it out of the crate and up onto the engine stand. But before I did I quickly checked the fitment of my just received Quicktime bell housing. Oops! Ordered the wrong one. Good grief. Ordered RM-6060 instead of RM-6080. I amaze myself sometimes, and not in a good way. Exchange underway. I used the side motor mount bolt locations with chains and lots of towels and rags over the engine to hook it up and onto the engine stand. Had to get some metric bolts for the back of the block long enough for the stand, so yet another visit to my friends at Ace. But it mounted up OK. Just barely fit around the flywheel. It comes filled with oil, so drained that out. I didn’t have any clean containers, so never really thought to save the oil. I should have! I didn’t know it was 8 quarts and that it was synthetic. Put some bucks into the old oil recycle there. Oh well. Yet another lesson learned. I installed the alternator using the supplied Ford Racing kit. Very easy except the one idler wheel they provide but don't show in the instructions. Guessed it needed to replace the one already on the engine, and turns out that was right. Then turned it over and took the stock pan and pickup off and replaced with the Moroso pieces.



I would have loved to lift off that factory gasket/windage tray and peak into the innards there a little. But it was stuck in place with sealant, and I chose not to disturb it. I could see the 4-bolt mains, with the front one pretty visible. Actually I guess 6-bolt if you include the ones through the side of the block. All five are just like this. Pretty stout engine there.


After checking the pickup to pan distance using the clay method (actually plumber’s putty…) and finding it just over 3/8 inch (good) I installed the Moroso pan. Also added the engine mounts, just finger tight.


 
#66 ·
When I was ready to click the button to purchase last week, the first place I went said “Ford Coyote M-6007-M50 no longer available, replaced with M-6007-M50A.” ...It’s rated at 430 HP and just over 400 torque. ...Some of the changes to the 2015-2016 engine are bigger heads and valves. ...A revised crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and a couple internal changes to the block. A major addition is charge motion control valves (CMCV) added to the intake manifold. This was something used before on 3V mod motors, as I understand, and one of the first performance modifications was to remove them. Ford claims these were done right on the Coyote, and get totally out of the way when open. They are supposed to provide better low-end torque without affecting high rpm power.
You are correct except the motor has 435 horsepower (not 430) @ 6500 rpm and 400 ft/lb of torque @ 4250 rpm (with premium fuel).

Here is the breakdown:

NEW Ford Performance Mustang Coyote 5.0L 435HP Crate Engine M-6007-M50A

Coyote Control Pack M-6017-504V Recommended
Detailed Specs and Notes:
  • 435 Horsepower, 400 ft/lbs Torque
  • 11.0:1 Compression ratio
  • Lightweight aluminum block features cross-bolted main bearing caps and thick bulkheads for bottom-end strength
  • Piston cooling jets and optimized oil drainback and windage control to improve high-rpm performance
  • Large sump oil pan with 8qt capacity
  • Tuned composite intake manifold provides efficient air delivery and weight savings
  • 80 mm single bore drive by wire throttle body
  • Four-valve-per-cylinder aluminum heads with roller-finger followers reduce friction
  • Includes Mustang GT 409 stainless-steel tubular exhaust manifold on the RIGHT SIDE ONLY
  • Includes manual transmission engine harness and flywheel
  • Vehicle harness and PCM not included
  • Use Control Pack M-6017-A504V designed for street rod/project car installation
  • Does not include alternator for alternator kit see M-8600-M50ALT
  • 5.0L Mustang engine cover kit available see M-9680-M50A
  • Remote Mount Filter Adapter M-6881-M50 available for applications requiring oil filter relocation
  • Engine mount bosses and bellhousing mount pattern common to 4.6L modular engines
  • Photo and specs may vary as production is ongoing
  • Engine weight: 444 lbs

OUTGOING Ford Performance Mustang Coyote 5.0L 420HP Crate Engine M-6007-M50

Coyote Control Pack M-6017-A504V Recommended
Detailed Specs and Notes
  • 420 Horsepower, 390 ft/lbs Torque
  • 11.0:1 Compression ratio
  • Lightweight aluminum block features cross-bolted main bearing caps and thick bulkheads for bottom-end strength
  • Piston cooling jets and optimized oil drainback and windage control to improve high-rpm performance
  • Large sump oil pan with 8qt capacity
  • Tuned composite intake manifold provides efficient air delivery and weight savings
  • 80 mm single bore drive by wire throttle body
  • Four-valve-per-cylinder aluminum heads with roller-finger followers reduce friction
  • Includes manual transmission engine harness and flywheel
  • Vehicle harness and PCM not included
  • Use Control Pack M-6017-A504V designed for street rod/project car installation
  • Does not include alternator for alternator kit see M-8600-M50ALT
  • 5.0L Mustang engine cover kit available see M-9680-M50
  • Remote Mount Filter Adapter M-6881-M50 available for applications requiring oil filter relocation
  • Engine mount bosses and bellhousing mount pattern common to 4.6L modular engines
  • Photo and specs may vary. These features apply for engine code EG-397-AA. Engines are this build code or newer while supplies last.
  • Engine weight: 444 lbs

Honestly you probably won't notice the difference in power, but I suspect the revisions were more about longevity.

Then I found they have released a brand new control pack M-6017-504V for the 2015-2016 engine, which is mandatory. The 2011-2014 engine won’t work with the new control pack and the 2015-2016 won’t work the old control pack.
Correct again.

NEW FORD RACING 5.0L COYOTE ENGINE CONTROL PACK — M-6017-504V

Designed to run:
  • M-6007-M50A 4 Valve crate engines
Ford Performance Instructions

OUTGOING FORD RACING 5.0L COYOTE ENGINE CONTROL PACK — M-6017-A504V

Designed to run:
  • M-6007-M50 4 Valve crate engines
  • M-6007-A50NA 5.0L 4V crate engines
  • M-6007-A50SC
  • M-6007-A50XS 5.0L 4V Aluminator XS crate engines
  • Salvage motors from 2011-2014 Mustang GT.
  • Salvage motors from 2012-2013 Boss 302 with aftermarket custom software tuning.
  • Salvage motors from 2012-2013 F150 with aftermarket custom software tuning.
Ford Performance Instructions

Sadly I've already purchased the older control pack. I just looked on the box of my control pack and the number says M-6017-A504V. The "A" is the difference in the part numbers. So I will be on the hunt for the older motor. :(
 

Attachments

#61 · (Edited)
Coyote in the House (continued)

Last thing for now with the engine, I went through the Factory Five Coyote instructions and tried to verify every connection, hose, etc. Posted a forum thread, and received some good feedback. All is accounted for except two extra vacuum hoses by the throttle body. Thanks to another forum member, determined the one on the PS is for the power brakes booster, so I will remove and use that vacuum source for the fuel regulator. The one on the other side is for the already mentioned CMCV system. This will require a connection to the Spectre intake tube.

One aside comment. Some chatter on the forums about the necessity to use the remote oil filter setup. Many have avoided doing this by using a lower profile oil filter in the stock engine location, which is what I was planning. Some though didn’t like the reduced filter size/capacity as a result. I went ahead and picked up one of the recommended lower profile filters, an M1-113. Once home, I compared it to the OEM C336B filter I removed from the engine as received from the factory. Guess what? Same size. Looks like Ford had to reduce the size of the filter due to the oil cooler noted earlier? Also suggests this smaller filter should be fine. No remote oil filter for my build.


To wrap up, while I haven’t done much with it yet, here are some observations and pictures of the new control pack. First some obvious differences. The old control pack had the O2 connections on the supplied harness. The new engine has them integrated into the engine harness. (Even though the O2 sensors they provided don’t fit into the engine connectors. Open topic with Ford Racing technical support. Looks like they provided the rear sensors instead of the front ones. Same thing I guess but obviously different connectors.) Old harness has an electronic power steering connection, the new one doesn’t. No problem for our builds. New harness has A/C connections (not needed for my build) and clutch bottom and clutch top switches. More about that later. The new control pack has a brand new PCM and power distribution box. Both completely different than the old ones. The new control pack has a fault indicator light for the dash, I assume similar to a check engine light. Tells you a fault has occurred and you need to read the codes. Ford Racing tech told me the new control pack does NOT need the speed dial like the previous version. We’ll see I guess. Finally, and this one I’m a little upset/surprised about, the new control pack doesn’t have a tach connection. (!!) When I asked Ford Racing technical about this, he listed off all the stuff the new system has that weren’t in the old one. OK, but how you could miss this? He mentioned using an Autometer tach adapter. Don’t know about that. Looking at the Speedhut gauge instructions, looks like not too big a deal to tap into one of the wires on the coil-on-plug connectors and calibrate to that. To be continued.

OK, here are some pics: This is the new PCM. According to Ford, this is a “next generation” from the previous one, and a completely new operating system and program. Bet the tuner crowd likes that. It’s much smaller and lighter than the previous version, but looks like it will need to be mounted in a similar location based on the lengths of the supplied harness. A little interesting for me, I kind of recognize that supplier name on the PCM. I also recognize the codes and know this was manufactured in a plant in Seguin, Texas where I spent a lot of time. Yep, the company I retired from.


This is the new power distribution box. Looks a lot more like something you’d see under the hood of a DD. In fact, that’s probably what it is. No wires to connect on the inside of this one like the former version.



These are the already mentioned clutch “bottom” and clutch “top” switches provided. They have dedicated legs on the harness. According to Ford Racing tech, they are mandatory. The bottom switch is required as a starter interlock. The top switch apparently triggers some reaction by the PCM to the engine when the clutch is started down. I’m not going to question them. I will install but thinking not to use these exact switches. Measuring them, they’re just 2-wire NO and NC contact switches. I’m thinking I can use the typical switches we use on our builds, like the one on the right. The top switch can be mounted in the Wilwood box just like a brake switch, and in fact I already made and installed a bracket like that on the clutch side anyway. Then just need to figure out how to have a similar switch at the bottom of the clutch stroke. Stay tuned for that as well.


This is the provided drive-by-wire (DBW) accelerator pedal. Same one as before. Still thinking about how I’m going to do this one. Not a fan of the way FF suggests to modify it. Lots of ideas on the forums.


Quite a few changes in the way power is brought into the new harness. These are the power cables provided, including an inline 250 amp fuse. The main power input to the harness is the 2-pin large Weatherpack style connector on the right side. This goes into a connector next to the power distribution box.


Last but not least, no apparent change to the MAF sensor. The OEM one removes from the provided stock intake components and bolts into the recommended Spectre intake tube.


That’s way more than enough for now. My plan is to wrap up a few more details on the engine, and then drop into the chassis. Without the transmission for now, so should be easy enough. Obviously I will need to support it accordingly. I want to mock up and confirm all the engine compartment and footbox sheet metal.
 
#62 ·
I like my Lokar Drive-by-Wire and pedal set-up; easy to install one and lots of pedal choices.
 
#68 ·
Yeah, I've seen varying information out there as well. The initial release of the Coyote had 412hp, and later upped it to 420hp in 2013, but I think torque was the same. There were other revisions within 2011-2014 to things like the pistons (initially had oil squirters, then were removed) as well as mounting bosses for front accessories changed. These things are always being revised. Glad you're sorting things out with the latest. I'm wishing I waited on getting my engine pack now.
 
#69 · (Edited)
My Take on the Coyote Accelerator Pedal

Like many modern EFI engines, the Coyote is a Drive-By-Wire (DBW) setup, meaning no physical connection to the engine. Accelerator pedal movements send a signal to the engine computer, which in turn uses an electric motor on the throttle body to open/close the valve. The Coyote crate motor includes the required DBW accelerator pedal. It’s large and a little clunky, and requires some level of modification to fit. Factory Five includes a multi-page set of instructions for modifying the provided piece, which many have done successfully. But some, including me, find it a little crude. There are a couple alternatives. Use the existing pedal maybe improving a little on the mods. Use a similar module from a 2014 Ford Van which is smaller and fits better/looks neater. Or go all in with a Lokar DBW module and pedal which several have done. Option one is basically free, e.g. I already paid for it. Option two is around $100. Option three is in the $400+ range, depending on which pedal assembly you pick. After reading every forum thread and post on the subject I could find, one of the takeaways is none of the options provide any real upgrade to how the system works. All are similar. It seems mainly about fit and appearance. So I decided to do my own take on using the already received Ford Racing pedal assembly. If I wasn’t happy with how it turned out, easy enough to look at the other options with nothing lost but my time. Which I have plenty of right now! I really like the Lokar option, and spent quite a bit of time looking at it, looking at pictures guys have posted with it installed, and generally just trying to convince myself it was a good idea. But that’s expensive, and even though this isn’t a low budget build, happy to spend the money elsewhere.

My review of the installation guys have done with the existing pedal showed two major issues: One being appearance. The grafted on pedal and that big chunky module just don’t look very nice. Second, as installed, it shortens the overall pedal length some, resulting in higher effort and more sensitive throttle response. I don’t know if this has really been tested and compared, but makes sense if the lever arm is shorter. So I approached my install trying to address these two points. In order to not cut off the arm so much and not have the pedal too low, the overall assembly needs to be raised. The standard FF install bolts it pretty much to the existing accelerator mounting plate. Several guys have figured out how to get it mounted higher. One moved it way up and left the arm intact, which looked good, but it involved removing the FF mounting plate, and that didn’t leave me a way back if I didn’t like how it turned out. So I tried to find a happy medium.

My first step was to trim the module basically as outlined in the FF instructions. I tried to do it neat and clean so it looked like it was made that way. I also trimmed the big round pads off the outside mounting ears. They don’t add anything structural because they don’t contact on the back. Perhaps in the production cars they fit into a grommet or something. Not on our cars. With the module as small as it could be, and without the pedal cut off yet, I made a pattern using a cereal box (nothing too good for me) to move it up as high as it seemed practical. I also tried to keep it over toward the center of car as much as possible so the pedal hit where I wanted it in the footbox without the module being at a wonky angle. All was good until I found the connector location at the very top of the module was now too close to the steering column. So I removed some ribs on the side of the module where it was against the 3/4 inch tube to get it over about another 1/4 inch and all was good. Once I was happy with the template, made the real thing out of 3/16 inch aluminum plate and got the module placed where it looked pretty good. Then I took the FF supplied accelerator pedal, and using clamps, determined where it needed to be mounted on the module arm. I was looking at the length and also depth behind the brake pedal. The module placement had already pretty much determined the side-to-side location. Since I’m very satisfied with the pedal spacing on my current Mk4, I tried to duplicate those dimensions. I’m happy to say it’s very close. Note, as mentioned earlier, I didn’t have the pedal cut off yet. This was to try to address the appearance aspect. FF has you cut the arm off pretty short, leaving a stub visibly showing. My idea was to leave the arm as long as possible, and have it end behind the FF pedal itself, therefore more hidden. Also allowed me to space the mounting bolts a little further apart, which in theory is more structurally sound. So with the FF pedal location now determined, cut off the module pedal, and bolted it to the side of the module arm. Sprayed some of my (almost) matching Rust-Oleum paint on the bracket, and this morning put it all back together. I set the seat in the cockpit and checked out how it felt. All good. I think it’s a keeper. My only quibble at this point is the black non-skid surface on the FF pedal doesn’t match the other pedals that well. I may do something with that, but for now I’m leaving it as is. Here are a few pics.

Paper template and aluminum piece after finalizing.


First time installed.


From the inside, showing it slightly notched around the 3/4 inch tube.


Mocking up the FF pedal graft.


Graft complete and bent to match the module arm. Note I didn’t cut off the end of the FF pedal arm as instructed. Looks a little better, plus this also shows my version is about 1 inch longer. Only slightly shorter than the stock version. I’m thinking (hoping) I won’t be able to tell the difference.


Adapter plate all painted and ready to install. I threw a ruler next to it.


All done.


Couple of other Coyote updates since my last post. I mentioned before about the provided O2 sensors not matching the connectors with the engine harness. I’ve been back and forth with Ford Racing tech support on this one, and after sending pictures they agreed there is a problem. They checked an engine they had, plus also with engineering, and now confirm I have the wrong sensors. They are in the process of sending replacement parts. Note the O2 sensors I received are the exact ones called out in the new control pack instructions. So hopefully they will be changing that. Also note this is one of the differences between the new version of the Coyote and the previous one. Before the O2 sensor connectors were on the provided control pack harness. Now they are already on the engine, and not on the control pack harness. This does present a little bit of a challenge. Guys were able to adjust the former harness and sometimes get the cables to reach the sensors without extensions. Not so now. The O2 sensor connections on the new engine are fixed. One at the top RH rear corner, and the other on the lower LH side right next to the oil level sensor. I’ve checked using my new stainless headers and the provided O2 sensors. Both are 6-12 inches short of reaching the O2 bung. I’ll see if the new sensors they provide are similar (expect they will be) and determine the extensions needed once I mock everything up in the chassis. But expect to require extensions in all cases with the new engine. Ford Racing tech also confirmed, again this time from engineering, that the new control pack does not have a tach connection. I’m also waiting for their best and final opinion about the speed dial question. There still seems to be some question about that. The manual transmission engine provided as a crate motor does not have a transmission connection, even though there is one showing in the instructions. Another error. So no speed sensor connection there and none through the new control pack. Doesn’t the PCM require vehicle speed? That’s my question. I don’t see now where it would get it. My build has a GPS speedometer, so I actually don’t even need the speed sensor output for the gauges. But there’s one built into the TKO, so easy enough to feed that to the engine setup if required. But still an open question.

I’m back to doing fill-in work until my bell housing arrives. When it does, I’ll be dropping the engine into the chassis and start finalizing footbox sheet metal.
 
#70 ·
Caspers Electronics has O2 sensor extensions using OEM quick disconnect connectors in stock lengths (or can make them custom lengths for you).

They are inexpensive - my drivers side custom length (3') extension was $25.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/

Kevin
 
#71 ·
Caspers Electronics has O2 sensor extensions using OEM quick disconnect connectors in stock lengths (or can make them custom lengths for you).

They are inexpensive - my drivers side custom length (3') extension was $25.

CASPER'S ELECTRONICS - Quality Automotive Parts and Accessories - Specializing in automotive interconnect and wiring systems

Kevin
Thanks! I have that site bookmarked from previous discussions about the topic. Once I figure what I need based on what Ford sends me plus mocking up the engine in the chassis, I'll be contacting them.
 
#72 ·
The new Coyote does not seem to be as "plug-n-play" friendly as the older version?
 
#73 ·
I wouldn't say that. Yet. The changes made to the engine itself have been well regarded in Mustang circles. As for the crate motor control pack, also some nice changes which I documented previously. But also looks like "teething issues" (I'll call it that) for early adopters. Ford Racing tech support has been OK and willing to help, but also learning about the new setup. Keep in mind I'm going into this with zero Coyote knowledge and/or experience. Add the new version on top, and makes it interesting. We'll see how this all turns out, but I think it's going to be fine. Just some differences.
 
#76 · (Edited)
Poised for Engine Mock-up

Spent time yesterday making some lift plates for the engine out of 1/4 inch steel plate. The DS attaches to the factory lift location. The PS to a pair of exhaust manifold bolts. My tools are pretty lightweight for dealing with steel plate, but got through it. They work great. Threw some towels in there to keep from marking up my shiny new engine while dragging the chains around. The lift plates do add some width to the engine during installation. I should be OK with the DS because it's well in front of the footbox. The PS could be challenging during final assembly. But I'll find out during the mock-up, and shouldn't have any problems this time around since I don't have any of the PS panels installed yet. I did finally receive the right Quicktime bell housing on Friday, and it seems to fit fine. I have a couple other parts scheduled for delivery on Monday, and then will drop the engine in.

I'll be using the Whitby motor mount spacers. This morning I was reviewing a newer edition of the FF Coyote installation instructions than the one I had before. Not sure how that happened. But I see now FF is showing an L-shaped spacer between the engine and motor mount on the DS (left). But that side only. Interesting. I also saw where they're no longer showing that collection of fittings allowing both the stock and aftermarket oil pressure connections. They just remove the stock connection, and replace it with the aftermarket one from the gauges. I'm assuming the PCM doesn't see the missing connection as an error condition. Same question about the oil level sensor on the bottom of the pan. I'm hearing I can disconnect that too. I need to verify the new PCM doesn't have a problem with either of these.

Here's the Coyote waiting to be dropped in. I made an engine cradle a couple builds ago out of some scrap lumber, and it's served me well. With a couple tweaks fits the Coyote mounts. I'm just a little too paranoid to leave the engine hanging on the hoist for very long, even though many do it and I've never had a problem. Plus handy for longer term storage once the bell housing and trans are installed and can't use the engine stand.

 
#77 ·
Exciting times.

From what I remember, your home made mounting locations will be fine. The stock lift hocks that came with earlier models were mounted on the back of the PS cylinder head and the opposite corner on the DS head. The unit sides in very easily for such a wide power plant.

I wound up having to use one Whitby spacer only on the DS. As for the oil pressure, you may want to reconsider the plumbing as outlined in the original install instructions and have the stock sensor plugged into the PCM along with an output for the dash gauge. The PCM control strategy may include forcing the engine to idle in the event you lose oil pressure. A handy safety feature.
 
#79 ·
I am just catching back up to your latest posts and had a thought Re: the clutch switches. I suspect that the clutch down switch is normally open so it closes and completes the circuit when the pedal is near the floor. But what about the top switch, normally opened or closed?
 
#80 · (Edited)
Interesting question, and hopefully my answer isn't too confusing. I was at first... Both switches are listed in the instructions as normally open. In reality, the top switch actually measured normally closed and the bottom switch normally open. After thinking about it a little, realized both were right.

The top switch is pressed down when the clutch is in the full up position and at that point is open. When the clutch is pushed in, it closes. Same as a typical brake switch. The bottom switch is normally open at all times except when the clutch pedal is pushed all the way down closing the switch. The bottom switch, as I understand, is the starter interlock. I'm not 100% sure at this point how the PCM reacts to the top switch closing.
 
#81 ·
I'm guessing that one switch is the starting interlock and the other provides the "Speed Dial" function, to prevent stalling when rolling to a stop? Just an uneducated guess...
 
#83 ·
Top switch, cruise control disable, prevent engine run away, over rev, such as pushing in the clutch while at full throttle?
It would be great if they've programmed the speed dial requirement out somehow. Either with the clutch top switch or some other method. The Ford Racing tech guy I talked to actually also suggested the top switch may have something to do with not requiring the speed dial. But he admitted he didn't know that for sure. Only guessing. The information in the instructions is pretty limited about both.

"The switches translate the clutch pedal position to the PCM. The bottom travel switch also acts as a starter safety interlock. The starter motor will not energize until the clutch has been fully depressed."

Also related: "The system supports use of a manual transmission only" and "Cruise control is not available with this system."

So cruise control disable doesn't seem to be one of the choices. As I said earlier, I will incorporate both of these switches into the build. I will keep trying to find out what they actually do, other than the interlock which is pretty obvious.
 
#84 · (Edited)
Quick IRS Update

I know some are following this thread because of the new IRS setup, so thought I would pass this along. Yesterday afternoon I got a little bored (OK, both of my football teams were losing badly...) so I decided to play around with the IRS alignment. Just to get it somewhere in the ballpark. Used a level on the hubs for camber and a laser level pointed toward the front of the car for toe. Like I said, really rough. They were clearly way off from the original assembly. What I discovered is now quite obvious in hindsight, but I missed it during the initial assembly and I don't remember it from the instructions. It it's there, I obviously overlooked it. For the two adjustment points on each side, it's necessary to have equal threads showing on both sides before you bolt in the heim joint. I had the toe adjustment pretty centered, but that was mostly by accident I guess. For the camber adjustment, I had the fitting almost all the way into the UCA, but then the heim joint only about halfway in. So it was impossible to adjust it properly. I had to remove the large bolt holding the joint to the knuckle, center things up, and re-torque the bolt. Now it works perfectly. In both cases, you loosen the jam nut on each side and rotate the center adjuster as required. Then tighten the jam nuts. That's it. No dis-assembly required.

Here are a couple of pics. Camber adjustment showing equal threads on both sides now:


Toe adjustment showing roughly equal threads on both sides. Note where I have these as pictured is roughly to the spec. Looks like plenty of adjustment still available either way, and plenty of thread engagement. Also note, not surprisingly, the adjustments interact with each other. Adjusting camber also affects toe. Adjusting toe also affects camber. I'm planning to have the car professionally 4-wheel aligned when the time comes.

 
#85 · (Edited)
Engine In

Late yesterday I dropped the Coyote into the chassis for the first time. Hanging over the engine compartment, my first impression is there’s no way that thing will fit in there. But it does! Went it with relatively little drama. This is just a mock-up, so in some ways not completely how it will be when I do the “real” installation. The engine had the bell housing but no transmission. The DS footbox was just set in place, and no PS footbox yet. Next time around it will be different, and I won’t be doing it alone. But based on this first experience, I think it will be OK. I guess I shouldn’t say I was alone. My longsuffering wife helped by keeping it from swinging around, and being another set of eyes as we lowered it into place. I kept my promise of no heavy lifting!

What I learned. The engine hooks I made will be fine. Front DS is wide open. The PS rear can’t be in the back cylinder exhaust header holes, but one forward. Then it will clear the PS footbox. The steering column needs to be swung out of the way to clear the alternator going in. I just loosened all the set screws, pulled it off the steering column, and swung that end over. The 2bking modified panels on the DS are awesome. Wow, what a great job he did on those. The head sits in the DS footbox perfectly, and the restored space for the driver’s feet below is outstanding. FF needs to make this a standard for the Coyote builds. Completely removes one of the major objections. I was thinking of doing an expanded footbox on the PS. But the gained space isn’t that much, and the factory pieces I have already are powder coated with the anniversary white PC. I’m going to use them as is. I used Whitby spacers on both motor mounts. Both motor mount bolts are in the bottom of the slots, and the engine is relatively level. I will be leaving both in. I have the engine blocked at 2 degrees down measured off the dampener, roughly what I expect it will be when the transmission is installed and pinion angle set. The Moroso pan is slightly above the frame rails in the front, and just flush or very slightly below in the back. Fine with that. The Quicktime bell housing does extend a little lower than the pan on the bottom circle. I would say about 1/2 inch. I will probably go ahead and trim that off. But honestly if I get in a situation where I hit that, I’m probably hitting something else too. We’ll see. Also confirmed the shorter/compact oil filter clears the 4 inch chassis tube just fine. No remote oil filter to install. Fine by me.

I bolted in the stainless headers. PS, obviously especially without the footbox there, was wide open and easy as can be. Note to self. Get all the bolts started before tightening any of them! Even finger tight. The header flange is very precise. Now the DS is another whole story. I was able to get 4-5 of them on with a little effort, but there are a couple that are nearly impossible. I’ve read about this, and my experience is quite typical. Some guys put an access panel in the footbox, but for now I’m not planning to do that. My thought is for the hard to reach ones to use studs vs. the allen head bolts I'm using everywhere else. I think I’ve read where others have done this as well. Assuming there’s enough room to get the header into the opening and hooked over the studs. Another thought, which I’m seriously considering, is to install the DS header during engine installation. Once the engine is low enough that the header can go under the 3/4 inch frame tube, go ahead and install the DS header while more accessible. Using a combination of bolts and studs, still would able to re-torque the bolts later if necessary after a few run cycles. But anything more may require loosening the engine mounts and lifting the engine. Not something I want to think about, but not unlike many regular production cars. I’m planning to use Remflex gaskets, and I’ve had great luck with those. Both of my former builds haven’t needed the exhaust headers touched after the initial installation. Hopefully my luck will hold.

I also test fit the Gas-N side pipes. Wasn’t particularly easy because how I have the frame sitting on my 2-post, the pipes hit the side arms. So I had to lift each side to check them. But I wanted to get a sanity check on what pipe alignment looked like. I’ve had to work with this a lot on my previous builds, and many can cite how this aspect has kept them awake at night. I’m happy to report it looks pretty good. The ends of the Stainless headers exit the frame area at nearly the exact location on both sides and the pipe alignment seems OK. Both pipes will likely take a little bit of wedge to get parallel to the body. The DS more than the PS. This will all be finalized later during body installation. But I’m very satisfied with this initial check.

Here are some pics of the engine install. Engine hovering over its intended destination:


Settling in:


All in. Note these are the newer style 2015-2016 covers. A little chunky looking compared to the previous style, but they’re growing on me. I think they’re a little different around the back with the new CMCV setup on this engine.



DS stainless headers, after some “minor” frustration getting most of the bolts in.


PS stainless headers. Also checking the fit and clearance of the PS footbox pieces. All good.


This afternoon I starting playing with some of the control pack components, trying to decide where best to locate things. Still way more planning and work to do here, but here’s a couple first shots. Based on where the main harness comes off the engine (I think the same as the 2011-2014 engine) and the length of that harness, the PCM has to go alongside the engine. No way it will reach the firewall or even PS footbox as some have done. This location for the PCM allows the engine harness and then also the control pack harness to plug in reasonably OK and look decent from the engine side. I tried every possible angle, location, upside down, right side up, multiple cable routings, etc. This seems about the best. I will need to design and fabricate some type of tray for the PCM to set in. I wish it could be further from the headers, because I have to think there’s going to be a little more radiated heat there than elsewhere. But I don’t see where I have a choice. The PCM case has what looks like heat fins on one side, and those aren’t facing the headers. So if I shield the other side some – while still allowing airflow all around it – I think it should be OK. It’s designed to work in the harsh underhood environment, but don’t want to heat it unnecessarily.


I’m thinking the power distribution box will be somewhere in this area on the firewall. It’s just too big to fit behind the dash. I’m not planning a heater – only heated seats like I’ve done before – so I have some flexibility of where to place it on the firewall. Just need to find the best location taking into account the wiper motor and fuel lines and regulator. With the box in this location, the large bundled harness back to the PCM is still a bit too long, but I can deal with that in the fender well area I think. I may have to adjust the lengths a bit on a couple of the cables that go into the dash area. But that’s not something I have any qualms about doing and the smaller cables only have a few conductors.


I still have a lot of studying and thinking to do about joining the control pack wiring into the RF harness and main power wiring. The control pack came with a bunch of big power wires, including the main alternator charging wire, starter power wiring, etc. It’s not just clear to me why I would need to do those differently than I have in the past with the RF harness. As long as I have the always on connection from the battery to the main power input on the power distribution box, I think I have the power covered. And obviously the control pack has its own wires to the starter, ignition switch, cooling fan, fuel pump, etc. But need to spend more time with this. It’s definitely different than the previous version.

Still to be checked out are the intake, radiator and cooling lines, radiator reservoir, power steering lines and reservoir, brake and clutch reservoirs, fuel lines and regulator, and a decision about battery location. Still going back and forth between the Breeze front mount and the FFMetals under trunk mount. There is a lot going on in there. Still having fun though!
 
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