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EdwardB�s Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

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#1 · (Edited)
EdwardB’s Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

*** 5,000 mile report posted 06/19/019. Direct link: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/6064898-post491.html ***

Time to get rolling on another build thread. After a 1,680 mile round trip from Michigan to Wareham, as of August 6, 2015, Mk4 #8674 is now sitting in our garage. This is a 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4, number 03 of 20. This will be my third Roadster build, but a significant first. This is the first build where I am the original owner and taking delivery directly from Factory Five. The first two were purchased from their first owners as partial builds. The Mk3 had a good head start by a pro builder, so a great introduction. The Mk4 was only several months started, so almost like a new build. But time to go it alone from the very beginning. Plus Michigan gave me a really tough time the last go around without my name on the Certificate of Origin. So not going there again.

I thoroughly enjoy driving the completed Roadsters, going to car shows, and cruising whenever I get the chance. Absolutely a blast. The social aspect is great too, with our local club, the extended forum and Factory Five community, etc. But I also really enjoy the whole learning, planning and building process. Each time the builds were completed, I found myself missing the building. With my retirement earlier this year, it didn’t take long to realize another build was something I wanted to do. After some studying (and soul searching) decided it had to be another Roadster, and just to change it up a little spent quite a bit of time planning a 289 FIA build. I was ready to order one during the 50/50 sale several months ago. But then the 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4 was announced, and I was immediately hooked. I called and ordered it while at a rest stop in New York on the way to this year’s Factory Five open house, just minutes after it was made available for purchase. The plan is to sell #7750 when the new build is completed. #7750 is in it's first driving season this year, and now all sorted out and truly a pleasure to own and drive. Frankly, I can’t imagine letting go of it. But that’s the deal, and I’m sticking to it.

So let’s get down to the new non-donor build. The planned use is almost exclusively street cruising. The overall theme is a classic look and feel with completely modern mechanicals and premium driving. Because of the fully optioned anniversary edition, many aspects are already defined. Some of the specifics: Grey powder coat chassis, white powder coat on underhood panels and footboxes (intended to simulate the fiberglass of the originals), balance will be grey powder coat to match the chassis. 2015 Mustang IRS with 3.55 cast iron center section, FFR front spindles, front and rear sway bars, 13 inch front and rear Wilwood manual brakes, Wilwood pedal box with hydraulic clutch, engine driven power steering with 3.0 turn rack, upgraded Koni double-adjustable shocks, 18 inch FF Halibrand style wheels, new Coyote engine with footbox mods to maximize space, Stainless headers, GAS-N side pipes, TKO600 trans with Liberty’s shift mods, leather Roadster seats, Lizard Skin insulation, competition dash (tentatively) with glovebox, Speedhut gauges with GPS speedo, seat heaters, Breeze front battery, dropped floor in trunk, wipers, bumpers and overriders. Undecided about a heater. Haven't done one yet, and haven't missed it. But maybe it's time.

That’s probably enough for now. I’m planning a number of the little mods and touches learned from the first two builds, and maybe some new ones along the way. Notably absent will be a sound system. Spent a lot of time on that with my last build, and find it not very practical. One of my goals is to have a really clean Coyote installation. Not easy with all the wires and hoses. I’ve seen some really great examples. I’ll see how I can do. Color is still undecided. I’m kind of stuck on red, and could easily do that again. But looking at some other options as well. It will have stripes. I’m going to take my time. This isn’t a race. Plus even though I’m retired and have more time than before, I also have other things going on. I’m expecting a roughly two year build, like the first two.

There are 19 items on the backorder list. Many are minor, and won’t hold anything up. A couple others (front spindles, IRS parts) I’ll be watching closely. I’ve completed my inventory. I had a few missing and wrong parts. But not bad and I’m expecting will be quickly addressed. Probably my biggest observation, and I won’t say much at this point, is that I think I might be one of the first people to tackle the new 2015 Mustang IRS. I saw it in person at the Open House, and it’s really impressive and I think will make a great build. But it’s early for FF too. I’ll report more about it in the build thread as progress is made. I do already have the center section, knuckles and hubs on hand and ready to install. Talked about that in this thread: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fa...81-2015-mustang-irs-components-so-begins.html.

Going through everything, I'm generally pretty pleased. The windshield is now marked as made in Taiwan. The last two were from China. I wonder if they've changed vendors? It seems decent quality with everything nice and tight and clean. The new wheels are noticeably improved over the previous ones. The new tooling and new vendor has produced some nice parts. But those 18 inchers are huge! We'll see how that all turns out. The chassis looks good. The grey powder coating isn't real glossy, but it's nice. It seems they may have done some extra work prepping it before PC. I don't see much weld spatter. At least in many of the obvious places. Having a whole box of white PC'd panels before doing any fitting or drilling is different. I'll need to take care of those. The body looks good. All the panels match up OK at the parting lines. The new front quick jack mount brackets are interesting. I'll still do my usual grommet installation, but now even more to hold things up. I've got the newer style front UCA's. In general, interesting to see how they continue to make interim improvements to the same version. All good I think.

In the true spirit of no pictures it didn't happen, here are a few of pics of the delivery process.

From another forum member who saw my car in final assembly. Mine's on the RH side:

On the rack and ready to go:

Parking with the big dogs at a rest stop in New York on our way to Factory Five:

Loading onto the frame cart:

In she goes:

Me looking a little sweaty, while my wife does her best Vanna White impression. Factory Five posted this pic on their Facebook page:

Safely back in Michigan, ready to roll back out:

Yes, we used every inch:

Home in the garage:

Just a few boxes. All are in the basement now:


Here's the new IRS chassis setup, before anything installed. I suspect many will be interested to see this:


Here is a slideshow of all the pics taken during the delivery process, if you want to sit through them all: Delivery Slideshow by edwardb123 | Photobucket

I’ll take the body off and start dis-assembly of the rest of the panels next week, in and around Woodward Dream Cruise activities. I’m going to store the body off-site this time around, rather than having it on an elevated buck like my last two builds. I won't miss the head bumping and sore back working under that thing. I’ll get the frame up on the 2-post and start plugging away. Stay tuned for much more!
 
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#458 ·
It sure has been a pleasure following your build (occurs to me that this is a real understatement, considering what I - and many others - have taken away from it). Thanks for sharing, and for all of the help/advice along the way.

Cheers, Dale
 
#460 ·
"remove the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel regulator "
-Are you saying that leaving this on permanently is a hazard because it could leak or break?
Short answer, yes. Longer answer, on carb'd engines it's somewhat common to install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel log going into the carb. When I posted a picture of #7750 with one of those gauges installed, I received multiple recommendations to remove it after confirming the proper fuel pressure. Apparently there have been failures of those gauges leading to fuel leaks with obviously serious possible consequences. The firewall mounted gauge in this build doesn't get the vibration of an engine mounted gauge. Plus maybe a little less heat. But still I'm going to follow the same advice and remove it once I've confirmed the correct setting on the regulator. It serves no purpose riding around under the hood anyway. The regulator came with a plug for that fitting. Easy to remove and install the gauge any time needed.
 
#462 ·
#463 ·
Parking brake cable

Hi Paul, I've been looking over your build thread and admiring your work. I recently installed the Wilwood 12.88 brakes on my build. They appear to be the same as yours and my question is did you use the Wilwood park brake cable kit P/N 330-9371? Thanks for your detailed build thread.
JR
 

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#464 ·
Hi Paul, I've been looking over your build thread and admiring your work. I recently installed the Wilwood 12.88 brakes on my build. They appear to be the same as yours and my question is did you use the Wilwood park brake cable kit P/N 330-9371? Thanks for your detailed build thread. JR
Thanks, and you're welcome. To be honest I don't know much about the e-brake cables I used. They were what came with the kit. What I can say though is they weren't the 330-9371 kit you reference. I suspect they were just regular cables (as opposed to Wilwood) and required the adapters they supplied at the calipers. I painted them, but you can see them in this picture.


The other ends were the right length to attach to the FF e-brake handle when routed under the chassis tubes. I cut them off and routed above the chassis tubes and attached with the Lokar clevis shown in my build thread.
 
#465 ·
Mustang vent tube:
I ordered the part you recommended but have yet to install it. I looked at the end with the rubber right angle boot and then looked at the vent hole in the differential. Does the right angle boot just push into the vent hole? It almost looks like a threaded tube is missing which would thread into the differential vent hole then push into the right angle boot. Thoughts?
 
#466 ·
#468 ·
Sorry, I don't know the actual final lengths. They're buried in the chassis now obviously. I checked my notes though and can confirm I purchased two 10-foot sections of 3/8-inch SS tubing. One each for the sending and return lines. I don't recall having large pieces left over, but it's been a while. Hope this helps a little.
 
#473 ·
FYI I got my IRS retro fit on the road last December. I autocross a lot but no track time. I have nothing but the rubber 90 degree piece on my diff. Nothing comes out of it at all.
 
#474 ·
The question was about the low oil sensor on the Coyote engine oil pan. The Mustang center section vent tube just happened to be in the same post quoted. Agreed, I haven't seen anything come out of it as well.
 
#479 ·
Lost in web land...

Paul, (or web guru), How do I get to your build thread where adventures in bracketry, guidance thru the electrical maze, and information on vendors and part numbers abound? I've been gone; now, I'm back. Things have changed. Where are your fellow builders with harrowing tales of building adventures? I'm needy and dependent. Where are the supporting vendors listed? You get the idea... I do thank you for the exceptional build and sharing your journey.
 
#480 ·
Paul, (or web guru), How do I get to your build thread where adventures in bracketry, guidance thru the electrical maze, and information on vendors and part numbers abound? I've been gone; now, I'm back. Things have changed. Where are your fellow builders with harrowing tales of building adventures? I'm needy and dependent. Where are the supporting vendors listed? You get the idea... I do thank you for the exceptional build and sharing your journey.
The links to my build threads are in my sig line below. Those links will start you at page 1. The link for supporting vendors is in the menu bar. Advertising on FFCars.com

Welcome back!
 
#481 ·
1) Regarding your heated seat install, I am installing the same "warmseats" package and noticed that the battery connection uses 18g AL wire. With max current of 6A, it seems like this shoul be 14g. I plan to install my switches in the dash like you did so when routing to the dash I am wondering if I should use to 14g wire.
2) When at the high setting, the back and bottom seat heaters are in parallel causing the full load current of 6A to run through the switch. At low setting the heaters are in series and only draw 1.5A through the switch. 6A seems high for that little switch. Thus I am also considering putting a relay in series with the yellow wire which drives both seat heaters when they are in parallel at the high setting.
-thoughts?
 
#483 ·
I've installed those exact heaters, using the supplied wiring and switches, on three Roadster builds. Including extending the switches to the dash. Between the three, multiple driving seasons with no issues whatsoever. As Rich said, that 18 gauge wire will handle the current pretty easily for the short distances involved.
 
#484 ·
-Thank you for the quick reply, it seems you just saved me from having to do a lot of extra work!
-My interpretation from your recommendation is that when selecting wire gauge, I should focus on voltage drop and not worry about fusing current.
-Below I summarize my voltage drop calculations and would appreciate knowing if I am off in left field:
-----------------------
18G AL resistance/length=75mOhms/ft (note: AL is 1.65x CU)
distance from passenger seat to fuse panel=7ft
load current=6A
voltage drop on power=(75e-3)*7*6=0.45V
voltage drop on power plus ground =2*0.45V=0.9V
18G-->16G drops this by 37%-->0.57V
16G-->14G drops this by 37%-->0.36V
-----------------------
-Thus, 18G results in 12-0.9V=11.1V across seatwarmers
-while 14G results in 12-0.36V=11.64V across seatwarmers
 
#485 ·
I don't know that anything I said meant to not be concerned with current vs. voltage drop. Both are important. In my experience (and selection) I do actually focus on current. Typically the right sized wire for our use based on current will not have enough voltage drop to make a big difference. Mainly because the distances are all relatively short. Even from the front to the back of the car. (You EE's, be easy on me right now...) Also, if you want to be a little more technically correct, you may want to do the calculations with a bit higher voltage. Even though a 12 volt system, with the engine running and alternator in the circuit, the voltage is going to be in the 13 - 14 range. Depends on your setup and alternator. Easy enough to measure. I don't recall the seat heaters coming with AL wire either. As I recall it was copper. But it's been a couple years since I've installed them last or maybe they've changed.

But it's all a bit academic IMO. The summary from me is (1) There's no point in adding wire that is larger than what is already in the harness from the mfg, (2) As mentioned before, I haven't had any issues with the wire size provided. As an aside comment, of course good design says you always account for the heaviest current the circuit will see, plus some margin over. But in actual use, you'll probably find you usually don't have the heaters on the high setting. They run quite hot, and at least for me personally, I don't like it on that setting. Almost always only on the low setting. Even my wife in the passenger seat typically doesn't use the high setting very often. That should tell you something. :eek:
 
#486 ·
Paul can you talk a bit more about how you assembled your dash and trans tunnel cover so that no fasteners are visible or printing through to the leather? I understand you sandwiched two pieces of aluminum together, but did you attach your brackets to the inner piece of aluminum using countersunk holes and flat head bolts and then use an adhesive to bind the two pieces of aluminum together, or did you do something else? I plan to use Alex's glovebox (assuming I can get in touch with him and have him use my leather) and his instructions state to sand down the foam over the screw heads to level it, which I guess wouldn't be a bad approach, especially if the holes are countersunk.

Thanks,
David
 
#487 · (Edited)
For both the dash and the trans tunnel cover I fabricated brackets that mount on the back side and are used to attach to the frame. In all cases, they are held in place with flat head bolts counter sunk into the aluminum before any foam or covering. I get the screws counter sunk into the aluminum so they're completely flush. Then use JB Weld as a filler and sand it out just like doing body work or whatever, making sure the area is dead flat. Whatever foam and covering is used, they won't print through. I personally don't sand the foam. I prefer making sure the underlying surface is flat. I used Alex's kit on #7750 and did the same thing to mount his glovebox. Worked fine.

For the dash, I have used a doubler on two builds because I like how it makes the dash feel a little more solid. (FWIW, not required and strictly a personal choice. It does add quite a bit of work.) I use Weldwood gel contact cement to glue the two aluminum pieces together. There are probably other better adhesive choices, but when completed, the sandwich is also held together by the instruments, glove box screws, some of the switches, steering column trim ring, etc.
 
#489 ·
could you please expand a bit on the couplers for the rear quick jack bolts?
do these replace the metal spacers provided on the rear bolts?
 
#490 ·
No. The gas tank limits access to the back of the rear quick jack bolts. Once the tank is installed, you will find it difficult if not impossible to reach them, meaning potentially dropping the gas tank to install or remove the quick jacks. The idea is to bolt the couplers to the frame before the gas tank is installed. Then use pieces of threaded rod into the couplers to mount the quick jacks. All from the outside without having to access the back side covered by the tank. Still use the spacers, etc. That's the short explanation. There are longer explanations and pictures if needed. Search for "Kleiner mod." ;)
 
#491 · (Edited)
5000 Mile Report

Now in its third driving season, #8674 20th Anniversary Roadster is just about to turn 5,000 miles. Maybe even next week at the London show. Thought I would give a report of the journey since graduation.

To recap, #8674 was ordered from a New York Thruway rest stop on the way to the 2015 Factory Five open house in Wareham. That was the day they were released for sale, and mine is number three of twenty. We were back in Wareham in August 2015 to pick it up. It was completed just in time for the 2017 Detroit Autorama, was legal a couple months later, and back in Wareham again for the 2017 Open House. Couple weeks later made its first trip to London and did some charity rides with only a few hundred miles on the odometer. Since then, we’ve driven it as much as our Michigan weather allows. Another London show. Detroit Autorama again only this time in the Ford Performance display. Made it to the Texas Spring Cruise earlier this year and back to London for the third time next week. In between, countless shows, cruise-ins, our local Woodward Dream Cruise, and multiple events and cruises with our local Great Lakes Cobra Club. I enjoy meeting people and sharing the car and experience, giving rides, plus won some awards along the way. A couple weeks ago we had a private event at the Ford proving grounds in Romeo, Michigan. Something that not many get to do. Was in a group of 30+ similar cars doing triple digits around their 5-mile banked high speed oval track. Now that was a gas. Just solid fun and great times with the car and great friends. It draws attention wherever it goes, even when parked with much more expensive and exotic cars, of which there are plenty around here in SE Michigan.

Along the way, the car has been almost perfect. The Gen 2 Coyote crate motor is simply awesome, and thanks once again to those who talked me into it. Mostly Ron Everitt at the 2015 London show. The Coyote ran the stock Ford Performance tune for the first 1,000 miles or so. Then after hearing numerous positive reports, worked with Lund Racing for a custom tune. Made a great running engine even better. I had one ride of shame home on a flat bed, which in hindsight was mostly my fault. I didn’t re-tighten the hose clamps on the intake after the initial installation. On the way to a Saturday morning cars and coffee, the intake separated between the MAF sensor and the throttle body. Just won’t run that way, and I managed to not notice it until it was back home in my garage. Couple lessons learned there. Everything about the car for me is perfect. The Coyote of course, the hydraulic clutch, the Liberty Transmission TKO600, the KRC power steering, the big Wilwood brakes, the new (at the time) 2015+ Mustang based IRS. It’s easy to drive, and as I tell everyone, is as mild or wild as you want. It’s 99.9% a street driver, and I admit I’m a conservative driver. Partly out of being realistic about my driving skills, respect for the car, plus there’s a county sheriff substation just around the corner from where I live. I almost never go out driving without multiple LEO sightings. So I keep it legal and I’m fine with that. There is literally never a time that I climb in and drive down the street without a smile on my face and feeling blessed to own such a fun machine. Many of the miles are with my bride in the passenger seat. She’s a great sport about it and enjoys riding and the social aspect of our friends and club members. But she won’t drive it. Both of my sons have had some driving time. They’re both out of state, so doesn’t happen often. But rich times when it does. The three of us are the only ones that have driven it, and will probably stay that way.

Couple late breaking updates. While researching and installing the Gen 3 Coyote in my Gen 3 Coupe build, I found multiple references and recommendations for using a honeycomb airflow straightener in the cold air intake before the MAF sensor. Supposed to improve MAF readings improving idle, throttle response, etc. I ended up installing one in my Coupe build. Since it’s not on the road yet, no verdict on the results. But decided to try one on this build to see if any difference. I bought a 3.5-inch straightener, part number ACCH35, from Treadstone Performance. HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener. Was an easy installation in the air filter side of the Spectre MAF filter adapter. I made a cardboard template of the intake diameter, stuck to the honeycomb straightener with double back tape, and carefully sanded to the correct diameter on my stationery disk sander. Didn’t need much and with new 80 grit paper, cut easily. I put a very light coat of JB Weld plastic bonder around the inside of the intake and pushed into place. The tube is slightly tapered, so wedged in nicely. Looks like this.




I’ve only driven the car 20 miles or so since the installation. Don’t know if it’s my imagination but does seem to run even better. Idle seems nice. In the past, every once in a while, I feel just the slightest hesitation under acceleration. It’s really minor, and I’ve logged and had Lund look at it. They don’t see anything and say everything looks perfect. Like I said, really minor and barely perceptable. I didn’t notice it at all during my initial drive after installing the straightener. Will be interesting to keep monitoring.

Last thing. Between parking it in the garage last Monday afternoon, and climbing in for a drive Tuesday night, I found I’d joined the broken windshield club. Ugh.


Feel like I installed the windshield properly. Shimmed for no stress. Don’t ever hang on it. Nothing. But three years later while sitting in a cool garage it broke. I guess this story has been repeated a lot. My first thought was to go with the Fast Freddie Lexan windshield. Michigan is one and done for inspection, so no issues there. His website says temporarily out of stock. Contacted him and was told (1) no ETA for more, (2) probably not going to offer it anymore. Also see his asking price is up to $600. So looked for other options. Many suggest getting a Lexan sheet and cutting your own. Found multiple recommendations for the Optic Armor brand. Probably the same thing as available through plastics suppliers. But available in the right rough size, plus through Summit Racing so only a $9.99 shipping premium. But wouldn’t be here for a couple weeks and really want this fixed for London next week. So decided to call Factory Five. Have a replacement glass on the way and should have fixed in the next couple days. If it breaks again, the next one will be Lexan.

That's it. Back to driving and hope the next 5,000 is as fun as the first. Hope to see many of you in London next week.
 
#492 ·
Consider what I did with the windshield. I fixed it with the standard two bolts on the driver’s side , but only one on the passenger side. This reduces the torsional (twisting) stress. I am on the third summer, no crack yet. The windshield feels solid with three bolts. I don.t know if this is a good idea, but so far so good.
 
#494 ·
Did you order just the glass. I am considering that but wonder if the rubber seal comes with it. Mine is 12 yrs old and once in a while driving into the sun the standard pitting shows really badly.
 
#496 ·
Yes, I ordered just the replacement glass. Their part number 15828. It does include new rubber seal material for around the glass in the frame, plus a new seal piece for along the bottom against the body.
 
#497 ·
Hi Ed,

Working on trunk panels and just had a question about the holes on this rear bottom flange.
What are they for?

Have looked through your thread and can't seem to find a shot of this panel later on showing what is mounted to it.

I am thinking it is for clamps for the wiring harness?
If so did you use similar mounts as the ones in the engine bay?

Thanks as always.
Ken
 

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#498 ·
No, those holes don't have anything to do with the wiring harness. What they actually are I never mentioned in the build thread. Once I had that rear piece riveted in place, it was somewhat wavy along the back edge. I didn't like it so riveted another piece of .090 aluminum on the bottom to straighten it out. Almost for sure not necessary, but that's what I did.

The rear wiring harness, after exiting above the tank, is held to the 3/4-inch square frame along the back in a couple of places with these kinds of clamps, available in multiple sizes. https://www.mcmaster.com/3225t26. Same as used everywhere else for the wiring harness. A lot of guys use tie wraps for the wiring harness to the frame. I prefer these.
 
#499 ·



Ed - I am running my brake lines & I have a question about your brake master cylinders,
In the 2 pics above it seems your front one is in the middle of the 3 (looking at these 2 pics) line goes from middle one to the 3/4" tube in engine compartment
but on post #25 you talk about the 3/4" vs 5/8" MC and the mention the Front MC (3/4") is towards the middle of the car (towards passenger side?)
And that is what this pic below seems to show, 5/8" Rear MC in the middle, did you change/swap positions of the MC's somewhere in the process?
(I can actually see the 0.625" Mark wow always amazed my your pics and attention to detail).
357764

The reason I ask is I follow your build thread for advise & tips & I want to copy your brake line routing I had installed MC's same way but now with the front 3/4" (front) on on the passenger side,
in order to copy your routing the lines would have to cross the lines over, the front line across to go out to the 3/4" tube in engine bay
& rear line across to go down the middle down tube (behind the gas pedal).
I hope that explanation makes sense. . . like I said just wondering if you swapped the 2 MC positions at some point, seems like the only logical explanation?
I can make it work, just wondering if I worth it to get in there and swap them on mine, not the easiest thing to do at this point.

Also as I am you know CNC is no longer making the Reservoirs (Missed ordering them), do you have any recommendations for alternatives (triple style).
I have seen some others on Summit, (OTB, Jamer, Classic performance etc..) or if any one still carries the CNC's
just wondering as I have not seen much talk about this on the forums..

As always your posts have helped so much in my build & are awesome, much appreciate your work.
 
#500 ·
Thanks for your post and happy to hear the build thread is still giving. You're very welcome. Regarding the front and back MC's, I've been asked this question before and I can categorically confirm I have the 3/4-inch MC on the front brake circuit and it's in the center position on the footbox. The 5/8-inch MC is on the rear brake circuit and is in the outside position toward the center of the chassis. The clutch MC is in the outside position on the other side. The picture in post #25 was taken literally the first month I had the kit and the context there was the mod I did for the clutch pedal interference. Something I understand is now corrected by Factory Five. Clearly I had just bolted the MC's into place without regard for the line routing or final position. Which was changed some months later when the actual SS lines were run. When asked the question before, made me doubt myself enough that I took the cover off the footbox to confirm. They are not in the same position as the picture in post #25. So at some point I swapped them. Sorry for the confusion.

One question though. I don't know when Factory Five made the change. But within the last couple years, Factory Five is no longer supplying the 5/8-inch MC for the rear brakes. They are supplying 3/4-inch MC's for both front and rear. I have not heard an explanation for this change. But depending on the age of your kit, this may not be a concern for you. Don't be confused if your kit doesn't have the 5/8-inch rear. Clearly the change was intentional.

Regarding the CNC triple reservoirs, I'm personally not aware of any sources to obtain one. I've seen multiple posts where guys were able to find one on the shelf somewhere. But that was months ago and suspect they're all gone. I've seen some guys use these: SCOTTS TRIPLE REMOTE RESERVOIRS. Some this one from Jamar which you mention: RR-1300 - Jamar Performance Products. Very nice, but sure is pricey. I used this one in my recent Coupe build: 3-Chamber Plastic Reservoir - Tilton Engineering. It's plastic so not as cool I guess as the others. But like other Tilton parts, a quality piece. Good luck finding something you like.
 
#501 ·
I've seen some guys use these: SCOTTS TRIPLE REMOTE RESERVOIRS.
I just purchased and installed that exact triple reservoir from Mike Forte. It came with a satin machine finish and a little Mothers polish shined it up very nicely. I bought and drilled a piece of 1/8" (or maybe 3/16"?) aluminum angle iron to use as a mounting bracket.
357771
357772
 
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