Need help removing wilwood pivot pin - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Need help removing wilwood pivot pin

I am still going through my clutch issues, and hopefully the new bracket and slave from Mike will sort everything out.

When I was changing my MC (finished car) I screwed up the first three threads or so in the aluminum block at the top of the clutch pedal.

I want to remove the clutch pedal so I can rethread the piece that the MC rod screws into. I pulled the retaining ring off the pivot pin and was able to pull it about 1/3 of the way out. I can't get it to pull out any farther (even with leverage). I have soaked it with PB Blaster for 2 days with no results.

What is it hanging up on? Is there a certain way to remove the pivot pin?

Thanks. I really don't want to remove the body to get above the block and my access panel doesn't really give me enough room to rethread this as I want.


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 02:23 PM
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Are you referring to the Fulcrum pin of the clutch pedal or the smaller pin that connect the U shaped block from the MC stud to the top of the pedal?

I actually swapped my leaking MC last night and just popped the C clip off and pushed the smaller pin out towards the sidepipe. I dont believe you need to remove the entire clutch pedal, you can remove just the U shaped piece and thread that to the MC to the desired pedal height/stroke length, etc.

This of course, was all done through the top access panel I cut out, except for the bottom stud nut on the MC.

Thanks,
TW

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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The fulcrum pin is what I'm trying to remove because I feel like I have more access to it.

I may try opening up my access panel. Did you have any difficulty going through the top panel? Do you have a pic of your top panel.

Thanks
Brian

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 03:27 PM
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I did all the work last night through the access panel. Here is a pic of mine, you can look at the top and see the white plastic reservoir for the clutch. All I did was remove the nuts for the reservoir mount, the two for the MC mounting, the braided hose to at the output, and the smaller pin. I pull the MC out with reservoir and U shaped bracket attached. Noted the thread length to give me a reference when I screwed onto the new MC. Getting the Clutch pedal out will be a struggle due to the space constraints.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I just need the aluminum block to rethread it. I'll open up my access hole and give it another shot. It just seemed to me that even with a bigger access hole I would still have issues fishing out the aluminum block. Worth a shot though!

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-07-2013, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Well that worked, you just can't see anything you're doing. I recommend an access hole. A little different angle can help.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-07-2013, 10:47 PM
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Having an access hole is key. With the body on, I was able to switch from the cable clutch to Fortes hydraulic system fairly easily. It took a while but no issues.


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-08-2013, 02:44 AM
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Glad to hear you got it worked out.


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