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Old 06-21-2013, 01:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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noob enclosed trailer towing questions

I'm loading up my car in a borrowed enclosed trailer this afternoon. never having trailed my ffr before, I'm a little lost - there's nothing to hook to!

for the front I thought I would wrap a strap around the main transverse tube near the frame horns. for the back... through the wheels (15" halibrands), up & over the axle (4 link), or can I make it easy on myself & tie onto the frame bracing that is behind the fuel cell & behind the rear body panel?

BTW the trailer is a vee nosed 7 x 14. I know this will be really tight, but it will fit, right?

thanks!

Jim
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the trailer is big enough. add 6" length to the above for quickjacks. you can take advantage of the tow hooks in front of the main tubes. i have towed it that way, and also through the rear wheels. the good news is that there are loads of ways to tie this car down.

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Old 06-21-2013, 02:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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1. Criss-Cross your tie-down straps so the left front on the car goes to the right front on the trailer etc… front and back. This will keep the car from shifting to one side or the other.
2. Pull over after you drive for 5 or 10 miles and snug up the straps…they will loosen at first.

I would just go over the rear axle housing and the front cross member as you described. You want your straps to pull front to back so the car doesn’t roll front to back. You don’t want your strap anchored on the trailer directly below where it is attached to the car.


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Old 06-21-2013, 03:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thru halibrads

I towed from North Oregon to Cali and used 2 ton straps thru the wheels. I made sure to put a towel between the wheel and the strap to not scrape the wheels. Worked well for me.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What I do is drive my car in and attach the front straps. Then release the parking brake and put in neutral. Then attach the rear straps tightening the car down. You might have to tighten the fronts one more time to balance the tension. This helps with the strap not coming loose. If you do all that with the parking brake on or in gear the straps will more than likely come loose as you drive down the road. Make sure the front of your trailer is higher than the rear though so the car doesn't roll forward when you take off the brake .

I always X my straps both front and back because the car will slide left or right if you don't. Also, make sure the straps are not touching the body anywhere. I could see the fronts being pretty tight.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks for the feedback & the schematic. this is an enclosed trailer, just wanted to be clear - looks like it will be a *tight* fit

Jim
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I think it will be to short at just 14'..Might be tad hard getting out of the car once it's inside as well..
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally posted and discussed to a thread in April 2012 (CLICK HERE)

Quote:
Originally Posted by GW6929 View Post
I'm loading up my car in a borrowed enclosed trailer this afternoon. never having trailed my ffr before, I'm a little lost - there's nothing to hook to!

for the front I thought I would wrap a strap around the main transverse tube near the frame horns. for the back... through the wheels (15" halibrands), up & over the axle (4 link), or can I make it easy on myself & tie onto the frame bracing that is behind the fuel cell & behind the rear body panel?

BTW the trailer is a vee nosed 7 x 14. I know this will be really tight, but it will fit, right?

thanks!

Jim
What I posted:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmustang View Post
Originally posted this back in September 15th 2005, and again in January of 2007, and again in April of 07 (perhaps NOW it should be included in the FAQ section

I tie my Cobras (along with every other car I tow) down as follows (all using 10,000lb rated tie downs, ratchets, and axle straps as you can never be too careful/cautious):

Front: Short padded axle strap around the outside of the lower control arm closest to the wheel assembly. Front left to Front left tie down loop, front right to front right tie down loop.

Rear: Short padded axle strap around axle tube as close to the center section as possible. Crossed in the rear to prevent movement of the car once strapped down. Left rear to right rear tie down loop, right rear to left rear tie down loop.

On IRS cars I use the same pattern on the front, but use a long padded axle strap around and through the rear wheel, also in a cross pattern as stated above.

Also, Once loosely tied down, I take the car out of gear and take the handbrake off. Once tied down tightly, I reset the emergency brake just to be on the safe side, but still leave the car out of gear as the rocking motion/movement of the car on the trailer will cause unnecessary wear of the internal gear set of the transmission over time.

Since originally posting the above in 2005, a lot of the commercial auto haulers have switched to "E" tracks such as these below.


E track system



And

this one



If you order from this company you need to specify whether you have the "E" track or the "I" track setup so that the clips are oriented properly.

Bill S.
Hope you find this as extremely helpful as 100's of others have

Bill S.
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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A good post by MrMustang but I don't like the wheel straps that go over/around the top of the tire (first picture). Budget rental trailers use those and my one experience with them was they cut into the top of my tires. They were whitewalls and while small cuts it really stands out. I have never used the ones that go strictly over the top. That could work nicely.
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordsbyjay View Post
A good post by MrMustang but I don't like the wheel straps that go over/around the top of the tire (first picture). Budget rental trailers use those and my one experience with them was they cut into the top of my tires. They were whitewalls and while small cuts it really stands out. I have never used the ones that go strictly over the top. That could work nicely.
The post was made as a cut and paste from the other thread (see link) and we were discussing options for tie down set up in a trailer, the attached pictures in this post will give you a better understanding of what should be used and how it can be done.


Bill S.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tiedowns1.jpg (58.5 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg tiedowns2.JPG (44.3 KB, 63 views)
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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One thing I forgot to mention was be mindful of where your brake lines are routed. With the straps you can go over them and it will be alright but any kind of chain or hook will crush the line.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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When I haul My Coupe I use an axel strap around back end of the front LCA and attach to that. I also use this to load and unload my car by attaching the trailer end to a an electric winch. On the back after loading the car I just use the mounts for my IRS. I can do the diagonal hook up in the rear but the rad ducting does not permit me to do this in the front. Just be sure you use stuff with and adequate load rating. I got mine from JEGS 4 2x24 5000 lb axle straps PN 555-80125 $9.99 each and 4 5000 lb 8 ft ratchet straps $21.99 each.
HTH
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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thanks for the all the help guys. Ive completed the trip & it went without incident. I'll say this, there's no way I could have used a 7ft wide trailer in a coupe!

On friday I picked up the trailer from my buddy's house, today I delivered it back to a lot where he sometimes stores it, what was parked a few spots down? a serpent express LOL

Jim
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