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Old 03-14-2013, 02:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Power steering

Can anyone recommend a power steering rack? Part number too if you have it.
Thanks , BD
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Bobby, if you do a quick search for "power steering" you'll see this topic is probably one of the most discussed topics on this forum. You'll see there's more than one way to skin this particular cat. It also depends on your budget, you could do it on the cheap and have a very adequate and dependable setup. You could also spend a bunch of money and get high-end parts and are better and possibly more or less dependable than OEM Ford components. Personally, I didn't spare too many expenses when I built my car and didn't want to compromise when I decided to convert to power steering (I'm really hoping that didn't come off as snobbish).

Here's what I did: My Power Steering Conversion
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Like his entire car Bill's setup is a masterful work of art! By his own admission it does represents the high end. I'll present the other end of the spectrum using OEM parts which I have done on 3 roadsters.

Autozone racks:

#6406; 3.0 turns lock to lock
#6439; 2.5 turns lock to lock
#64163 2.25 turns lock to lock

They are all right around $100. Couple that with an OEM mustang pump ($50), a CFR bracket ($60) and about eighty bucks worth of teflon hose and fittings from Breeze and you'll be out the door for around $300.

For a street only car, or even one that may see an occasional autocross for giggles you might be happiest with the 3.0 turn rack. I just completed a Mk4 using a 3.0 rack which is a street cruiser and for that type of use I think it is ideal; responsive but relaxed if that makes sense. I have the fast 2.25 rack in my own car and love it but I do a lot of auto-x and track time. It is go cart quick and changes direction like a cat on carpet! I'm completely comfortable with it however some people who have used that ratio feel that it's too fast. As an aside, after driving them back to back it is surprising how much the two different racks change the whole personality of the cars---not that one is good or bad, just different. Additionally different drivers prefer different levels of assist. If you find that it is more than you like you can trim the pump's pressure relief spring to reduce it. If you would like the ability to adjust it for various drivers or uses (I run full assist on track but back it down on the street) you can incorporate a Heidt's adjustable pressure valve for an additional $100 or so.

Good luck!
Jeff
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Like his entire car Bill's setup is a masterful work of art! By his own admission it does represents the high end. I'll present the other end of the spectrum using OEM parts which I have done on 3 roadsters.
If you really want to go high end:



But they only make it in quick ratio and it is $900.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Jeff....I've been collecting parts for a swap (have pump & brackets).

I have a manual rack in my car now. With the power racks you mention bolt right in or do I need any other parts? I've read about rack extenders and different u-joints and not sure what I'll really need.
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have the AGR Power Rack that has been specially tuned for the FFR Cobra along with the companion AGR Saginaw Type II Aluminum pump and I couldn't be happier...as for as performance/road feel. To be accurate I sent AGR my 3 turns lock-to-lock rack and they changed the internal torsion bar valve. I would speak with them. There is a point in time when Ford updated their Mustang racks and went to helical gears, I think their helical, which is a better set-up over say a 1985 rack.

Your Power Steering is a critical factor in how your car will drive and it will have a big influence on your driving pleasure. I felt this was not an area to go cheap.

Jack
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Do some reading on this one before you buy. THere are a couple good posts. On one, I linked out to a very good article.

Basically, the newer (SN95) racks are way better than the Fox ones. More precise helical gears, and a different torsion bar. AGR makes a Mustang Cobra R type and also a special Cobra replica rack.
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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All,
Thanks for your replies. I am trying to keep the price down somewhat as I almost to my budget limit and I have a ways to go. I can see that my time line will creep due to funds availability. I can see that this is usually the norm though.
BD
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Dan, if your car is a MkII or III you will need a different lower u-joint. The splines on the PS rack are very different than the manual rack. If it's a MkIV, the rack is still different but you may need an entire steering shaft. I am not sure on that but the MkIV shaft isn't made up of a lot of seperate pieces like the older shafts were.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Dan, as Craig said your Mk3 will need a different spline on the lower shafts U-joint (power racks use 3/4" 36 spline while manual are 9/16" 26 spline). I've found that it can take a little digging to come up with the proper Mk3 power rack shaft or joint because they are unique and not interchangeable with earlier Mk1 & 2 or later Mk3.1 and Mk4.

Good luck,
Jeff
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:30 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I went with new stock pump and rack and it works perfect but it sure doesn't look cool like those polished ones. Honestly, I didn't even know about the cool stuf or I might of gone that route.

Bob
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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In between Autozone and AGR:

Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing

in any case remember your solid aluminum rack mounting bushings:

Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:03 AM   #13 (permalink)
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i would highly recommend the Breeze rack for another $129 over the Autozone rack, no matter how tight the budget. much, much, better quality. the autozone unit is likely to be spray-painted blue, the hard lines and all.

i returned the autozone rack - twice. i got full money back, but i was on my own for two more alignments.

Mark said get the aluminum bushings, but a cheaper alternative are these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pt...tang/year/1990

they lower the rack and reduce bumpsteer (a bit) and at the very least, they give LOADS more room under the x-member for the hard line fittings. much easier to get the wrench in there.

the best $12.95 you can spend on the car.

if you insist on the Autozone unit, pull on the rod ends, and see if there is a lot of play before you walk out with it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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All,
I hate every single one of you. You guys are spending my money faster than my wife. This car had better be greater than sex. Breeze for steering it will be.
Thanks,
BD
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I originally bought a manual rack, then decided to go with the power after driving a couple other FFRs. At speed the manual is fine, but they are a bear on a parking lot or backing up. The difference is well worth it. I went with the 3.0 ratio and really like it.
Jeff's plan is right on the mark. I followed it to the T.
  • Power Steering Rack 93 Mustang, 3.0 turn. Part# 6406 (Reman from Autozone)
  • OEM Mustang pump
  • CFR bracket
  • Breeze Rack bushings
  • CFR Performance PS Pulley
  • Breeze Braided Stainless Steel lines and AN fittings


Breeze Offset Rack Mounting Kit

Speedway 5" Aluminum Tie Rod Sleeve, 5/8"


and a warning about the llinks length for setting caster.
Lots of caster? A WARNING

also take a look at my post about the SS hoses, I was fighting the fittings for a while. That Teflon is a bitch.
Power Steering almost done, but slight leak
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The u-joints I have on my steering rack right now are the older clamp on style (see picture). The lower shaft is 3/4" round and splined (don't know how many splines though).

I found this part on Speedway. It's a weld-on u-joint.
Sweet Mfg Steering U-Joint, 3/4 36-Spline to 3/4 Round, GM Manual/Mustang II - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

I guess I could buy this piece and have it welded to the stock shaft I have. The fact that the splines on the lower shaft wouldn't be used shouldn't be an issue..correct?

Does anyone have a part number for a similar clamp on style u-joint that I could buy or is a weld-on u-joint the only option?

I have a thread in the Classified section here looking for the FFR piece too. Just trying to find the easiest way to convert to power steering.



EDIT....since this post comes up a bit, I figured I would update my info post.

On a MK3 that has the manual steering shaft with the bolt on u-joint, you need this part from UniSteer to replace the lower u-joint shown in my picture.

U-Joint 3/4"-36 (Ford) x 9/16"-30
UniSteer Part Number: 8050500
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ujoints.jpg (178.6 KB, 40 views)
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Last edited by Dan Babb; 07-18-2014 at 02:56 PM..
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Is there a trick to assembling the Breeze lines I"m missing? For some reason, the rack end of the pressure line will not seal up - it keeps crushing the end of the teflon when I thread the collar on. I've snipped the end off three times now to get a clean cut to work with, using one of the big braided line cutters I snagged from a hot rod store. Argh!
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Great Help for P/S

This post saved me tons of time. Thanks
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