OK, I cant be the only one out there that has tried to install and make the FFR Lucas wiper kit work properly. So, that being said....
I can get the hi, low and off to work- duh! BUT...
What is with the Park feature? Why is this so hard to complete?
I have tried the RELAY set-up...per everyone's directions, and it does not work. The diagram showing from the forum won't allow the low or the park to function. I can wire it differently, and get the low and high to work then, but still no park.
I have a 4 blade switch from Speedway. B=12v H=high L=low and a P=park
It should wire to the motor per the Lucas schematics. However, nothing makes the motor park itself.
FWIW- the switch has an open circuit between the B and the P in the off position.
HELP Please
__________________
Andy
"You think you hate it now, wait till you drive it!"
Ordered 11/21/2011 Arrived 1/18/2012 1st start 11/09/2012 1st Go Kart....30 mins. later
FFR#7697 MkIV base kit, AFR 205s- 408w sbf, Miller Speed front dress, Tremec TKO 600, 3.55 posi, IRS, 15" Halibrands, PS, hydroboost, & hyd. clutch
Not sure which switch you have. Below is a wiring diagram for the Lucas Rotary wiper switch. Scroll down to the bottom diagram for the correct wiring for the Lucas style rotary switch.
If you have the Lucas switch you will need a +12Volts source to both the switch and the motor for all the features to work. Sounds like you do not have the constant +12Volts to the motor.
The Speedway 4 Blade Switch has useless instructions. Without checking the points with a meter to see what makes I can not help with making it work. The Lucas Switch is odd and most likely does not wire like yours but the schematics attached in the previous post should help understand the function.
That is correct. If you are using a relay, almost any switch with an on/on/off function will work.
The way the circuit works is pretty basic. High connects to the high speed wire on the motor. Low connects to the low speed wire. Inside the connector (on the motor side) is a pin designated as "park" and another designated as "park 12V" which make a connection to the Low side (through the relay and a small plastic "park" pin trigger inside the connector). When it's on either high or low, the motor runs appropriately but when you trigger it to off, the "park" pin continues to supply power through that internal connector until the motor returns to its proper "park" position which causes the internal park pin to disengage disrupting the power flow.
Note that the little gear I am talking about inside the motor may need to be adjusted. It can only fit in two ways but for some reason I (and others) found that FFR supplied it with the "park" function set for the "up" position rather than the "down" position on the windscreen. The fix for this is to take the gearbox apart and move the small plastic ramp from the gear wheel (this is what triggers the "park connector" internal to the connector on the motor) and move it 180 degrees to the opposite side. Bit of a PITA if you already have everything installed so I recommend wiring up on a bench first to determine if it is setup correctly.
BTW, make sure you attach these wires correctly. The reason that I know how it works is that I flipped the park/park power wires while playing around with it (before I bought the proper connector from Finishline) and found out the hard way that the park pin pushes the "park" connector into the "park power" connector but when it hits the park position, the wire flips to the ground post. Imagine my surprise when I saw smoke coming out of the plastic box when my 12V power was bridged to ground. I took the opportunity to take it apart to figure out how it works and ended up replacing it with a new unit from Finishline.
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