I would appreciate any feedback from current drivers, to see if you think this would work well out on the roads. I am pleased that I can actually see everything. The radio is just representative, not the actual model I will use (actually unchosen at this time).
Thanks everyone.
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Tim
FFR MkIV #7393 under construction, LS3 / TR6060
HSV Clubsport R8
First of all, the wheel is on the wrong side of the car.
My personal bias is to hide the radio under the dash for three reasons. 1) It will look more "classic" without a radio, 2)you probably won't hear the radio anyway and won't use it much, and 3) if you get caught in the rain, the radio will be ruined. I got caught in some pretty bad unexpected downpours and one of them destroyed my GPS even though it was mounted under the dash.
Looks O.K. but I'm sure people will give personal preferences...myself included!I've only driven 1200 km and my dash is set up as shown in the build manual (MKIII non competition dash with donor gauges). With your dash, looking through the steering wheel, I would move the right turn indicator light to the right of the "Te" and place the high beam indicator between the "p" and "Te" (Oil pressure and temperature?).
The steering wheel is on the wrong side...Edit*(Yes I am not the first to say it and guaranteed not to be the last )
I looked at the picture a couple of times, and although the radio in the dash wouldn't be my cup of tea it blends well under the three gauges. I would space out the switches above the radio to align under the gauges.
Make sure that when things get busy, your hands don't hit the switches. I have the standard gauge layout and like it. Can't see the speedometer to well but like having the tach right in front of me.
A suggestion, sit in the car with your eyes closed and pretend you are on a tight auto x course with things happening fast. Where do you want things to be? Do you hit anything as you turn and shift.
These cockpits are really very small.
Best of luck,
Arch
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FFR# 6530 non donor, IRS, small Block w/carb build. GraduationPOM3000 Mile Trip 3500 Mile Trip
Built to be driven. The mission statement for the build was - build a comfortable and fun long distance driving machine that is capable of spirited street driving and the occasional track outing.
I'm not sure of your intended use for the car, but if it is for the track most people like the tach in front of them. It is your preference, though, and only you can decide how you mark your shift and braking points.
__________________ Tom
FFR 4040 MKII, IRS, 5.0 w/Cam, Super S pipes, March pulleys, Levy Super Alloy T5, Aluminum Flywheel, Ram clutch, 3.27 LSD, Cobra front brakes, Cobra R wheels, double hoops, driver FB mod, Kirkey Vintage 41 w/heaters, Tunnel mounted BMW E-brake handle, custom shifter/brake and cubby bezels, Mercedes premium carpet.
If you didn't build it, you can't brag about it. Just sayin'.
If that is taken from your eyelevel and you can truly see the temp gauge, I like it. I'm 5'7" with the bucket seats and can barely see my speedo over there when in go-kart mode. Personally, I'd put the clock where the temp is (can't imagine you'd want to really know the time once you're going), bump the fuel all the way over and put the pressure in there, keeping the temp on top of the wheel.
Also - switches were mentioned. If you are going for the horn fast, are you going to hit your key? Or your start/stop button? That looks kind of iffy to me.
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-Mk 3 #4900, home built '94 408W, Tremec 3550, 3.55 IRS, FFR 9"/10.5" wheels and 255/40Z17 - 315/35Z17 Nitto NT-05, ISIS...didn't follow the budget at all but having a blast. First go-kart 21 Sep 2011!
Personally I would also swap the tach and speedo but I understand your concern. In either position I would rotate the tach so my shift point is at 12 oclock-no need to read numbers just shift when the needle is straight up. I like your oil pressure and water temp where they are as they are the two most important numbers for the engine's life.
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
Question for you right-handers. Is the chassis/drive-train off-set to the left? Just wondering if there is a special kit or are you modding everything to the right-side (wow, that would be a LOT of work!) what donor do you use down-under?
keep us posted
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F5R #7446 Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, First Go-Kart 11/17/12
Licensed 4/24/13!! Wahoo!
I will look at relocating the radio - valid comments all. Also frees up more space for switches so might do a mod job there.
For some of the RHD drive cars over here, most guys have left the driveline where it was. Me however, I moved it so that it now sits central in the car, ie 1" to the left from factory. Given I am running an alloy block (lighter) I think I can get away with not offsetting it further to the left. Also, I did not want to get too far away from the diff pinion.
Also as second hand Mustangs are very thin on the ground over here (and very expensive if they are), we all tend to go the non-donor route.
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Tim
FFR MkIV #7393 under construction, LS3 / TR6060
HSV Clubsport R8
At a minimum, swap the tach and speedo. Looking at the speedo is a low-stress continous habit thing while looking at the tach is more apt to be a high stress "giving it the beans" thing. I'd want the tach where it will be easier to glance at during the high stress situation. Plus it would put the gas gauge next to the speedo which is smart due to the whole continously-looking-at thing. Whenever you look at the speedo the gas gauge will be right there looking back at you, mocking you.
Personally I'm really liking the smaller "Sweep" tachs that you can get new from MoonEyes or vintage off of ebay.
If you haven't bought the stereo yet have you seen the Retrosound Apache? Not sure about the whole Aussie radio compatability, but I think I'd set up the Apache with both knobs on the driver's side with a small tray underneath for an I-Pod.
Do motors spin in the same direction down under, or do you have to flip the rear axle?
ditto switching the tach and speedo. you will learn how fast you are going in each gear by RPM.
be absolutely, positively sure you can hit your horn button in an instant.
hide radio if at all possible, i say it's inappropriate for a car like ours.
i don't understand where your ignition switch is... in any case, be sure your fingers won't hit it when turning the steering wheel.
you are doing the right thing by having the oil pressure and water temp right in front of you.
be careful of the bar that goes from the dash hoop to the main frame. not sure if it's there on your model, and not sure if it's switched because of your right hand drive.
Do motors spin in the same direction down under, or do you have to flip the rear axle?
Bob
No, but I think we have to reverse the polarity to get them to go the right way
Quote:
Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie
Be careful of the bar that goes from the dash hoop to the main frame. not sure if it's there on your model, and not sure if it's switched because of your right hand drive.
Actually my model is the same as the US model. The RHD conversion is all done by me, no Factory Five input at all. So yes, that bar is an issue. Actually if you look closer, you might see the gap between the tach and the fuel gauge - that is for that bar ....
The speedo/tach swap is interesting. I was sitting in the car yesterday and I swapped these gauges over. Not sure I prefer it. The trouble is if your hands are in the 10 and two position, your left hand obscures the speedo. And I cannot move it over anymore due to the dreaded bar.
And as much as I might pretend my car will live on the race track, reality is it will do 99% duty on the street, where speed will be the major issue!
Agree with radio comments - I have removed it. Also gunna lose the clock too. To many clocks in this world!
__________________
Tim
FFR MkIV #7393 under construction, LS3 / TR6060
HSV Clubsport R8
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