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Old 10-09-2012, 08:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Whitby's power brake install

Hi All,

Just wanted to share that I've installed one of these on the car and love it, wish I had done it from the start.

Here's the progression:

1993 fox setup converted to manual with pedal mod - not great for stopping

Added rear disc conversion - almost no change

Added Carbotech pads - some improvement, noisy, dirty

Added 94-95 cobra MC - hardly any difference

Added Whitby's power brake system, put stock pads in front - wow, this is what brakes are supposed to do!

I still have the pedal mod and was concerned about a sensative pedal but not the case at all, very easy to control.

My car sees mostly street and some drag strip time, not much road race or autocross.

Nice to be able to stop the car without having to do a single leg 300lb leg press

Here's a pic where you can sort of see it.

Tom
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Great work especially putting the stock pads in front.Power brakes reduce the effort needed which can be good, but staggered pad compounds is a good way to improve the front to rear balance.
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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How hard was it to do on a finished car?

Any tips?
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Whitbys Power Brake System Rocks!
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Babb View Post
How hard was it to do on a finished car?

Any tips?
2nd this question
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You have to cut out a section of the 3/4" square tube and insert a piece from the kit to clear the vacuum servo. Not sure if you have the clearance. Probably doable.

From the late Don Voorhis's build. Here's the frame mod:


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Old 10-15-2012, 10:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A question that might help others contemplating this. I have never been impressed w/ that dogleg replacement piece from a strength point of view. I wonder, if you cut out enough to clear the booster, could a length of straight square tubing be bolted or welded underneath the existing ends and clear the booster or is more room needed?
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
A question that might help others contemplating this. I have never been impressed w/ that dogleg replacement piece from a strength point of view. I wonder, if you cut out enough to clear the booster, could a length of straight square tubing be bolted or welded underneath the existing ends and clear the booster or is more room needed?
Concerned with the mod based on appearance or actual hands on experience? Couple of things. It's a solid piece of bar stock, not hollow. The bend points are fully welded, with the exception of the joint to allow installation. That joint uses a bolt into a threaded hole and is very strong. The ends are inserted into the 3/4 tube and through bolted. I obviously haven't crash tested it, but I have to believe it's every bit as strong as the rather thin walled 3/4 tube it's replacing. The pictures below are from my Mk3 installation from the Whitby complete kit. The kit is first rate and my brakes are very strong with great feel. Couldn't be happier with the overall setup.

But to answer your question, yes I have seen pictures of a straight piece being bolted into the cut-out area. But I don't know if it's the same size booster, and honestly don't think it would be any stronger.



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Old 10-16-2012, 01:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Straight Leg Replacement

In answer to Craig S question, A straight piece along the outside of the 3/4 tube offers enough clearance for a fox booster. I did mine a couple years back after the car was complete. I would suggest removing the elephant ear on a completed car to gain enough access to the firewall. I used a 3/4 piece of angle and bolted thru the tubes and have no issues so far, and it is probably the best mod I have done in terms of driving pleasure and safety.
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File Type: jpg booster 002.jpg (201.0 KB, 52 views)
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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CraigS, I cut the frame right at the firewall and inserted a tube inside the existing 3/4", then slightly bent the 3/4" to bolt the new piece to the outside, in the DS footbox. From the engine compartment, the only thing you see is 2 bolts, near the booster. It does change the DS F-Panel slightly and I will probably need to trim the elephant ear just a bit. But I like it so far. It clears, but it is tight.

I'll try to get a closer picture tonight.

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Old 10-18-2012, 03:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Here's a better picture:
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