Great work especially putting the stock pads in front.Power brakes reduce the effort needed which can be good, but staggered pad compounds is a good way to improve the front to rear balance.
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
You have to cut out a section of the 3/4" square tube and insert a piece from the kit to clear the vacuum servo. Not sure if you have the clearance. Probably doable.
From the late Don Voorhis's build. Here's the frame mod:
Greg
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FFR4373 MK3, nondonor, DIY options/mods/paint, Lexus indigo/Viper silver, Hydroboost PS&PB/discs/ABS, AC/heat, 3-link/Konis, FMS302E, Holley 600DP/Airgap, 4X4 exhaust, Halibrand deep lip chrome CobraIII, TeamIII spinners, rollbars: chrome full & single
A question that might help others contemplating this. I have never been impressed w/ that dogleg replacement piece from a strength point of view. I wonder, if you cut out enough to clear the booster, could a length of straight square tubing be bolted or welded underneath the existing ends and clear the booster or is more room needed?
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
A question that might help others contemplating this. I have never been impressed w/ that dogleg replacement piece from a strength point of view. I wonder, if you cut out enough to clear the booster, could a length of straight square tubing be bolted or welded underneath the existing ends and clear the booster or is more room needed?
Concerned with the mod based on appearance or actual hands on experience? Couple of things. It's a solid piece of bar stock, not hollow. The bend points are fully welded, with the exception of the joint to allow installation. That joint uses a bolt into a threaded hole and is very strong. The ends are inserted into the 3/4 tube and through bolted. I obviously haven't crash tested it, but I have to believe it's every bit as strong as the rather thin walled 3/4 tube it's replacing. The pictures below are from my Mk3 installation from the Whitby complete kit. The kit is first rate and my brakes are very strong with great feel. Couldn't be happier with the overall setup.
But to answer your question, yes I have seen pictures of a straight piece being bolted into the cut-out area. But I don't know if it's the same size booster, and honestly don't think it would be any stronger.
In answer to Craig S question, A straight piece along the outside of the 3/4 tube offers enough clearance for a fox booster. I did mine a couple years back after the car was complete. I would suggest removing the elephant ear on a completed car to gain enough access to the firewall. I used a 3/4 piece of angle and bolted thru the tubes and have no issues so far, and it is probably the best mod I have done in terms of driving pleasure and safety.
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MRKIII - 94 Donor - 5.8 - T5 Mid-Shift - Holley 600 DP - Team III 17'S
CraigS, I cut the frame right at the firewall and inserted a tube inside the existing 3/4", then slightly bent the 3/4" to bolt the new piece to the outside, in the DS footbox. From the engine compartment, the only thing you see is 2 bolts, near the booster. It does change the DS F-Panel slightly and I will probably need to trim the elephant ear just a bit. But I like it so far. It clears, but it is tight.
I'll try to get a closer picture tonight.
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F5R #7446 Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, First Go-Kart 11/17/12
Licensed 4/24/13!! Wahoo!
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