I am getting closer and closer to pulling the trigger on the kit. I think I finally have a good plan for what I want. This is going to be the typical weekend and nice day driver for my wife and I. I am hoping to be able to use the car year round in Florida.
The question to this group is what must haves or I should have done's for driving in heat and humidity of the south (Central Florida). AC is almost a must for the floorboxes, but were their others? I am thinking good drainage holes in the cockpit incase of a rain storm.
You want a top for sunshade. I have an APE hardtop which is always on the car. I am near DC so not as hot for as long as you but...I find that w/ the side and rear windows out I get reasonable nice airflow w/ most of the 'beat your head around' gone compared to haveing no top. just make sure any top you get can remove the rear window as that is not a common thing. I assume you will do AC for the really hot times so make sure to run some cool air into the footboxes and insulate them very well.
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
I've been on the road in Florida for almost a year now and have noticed a few things. I didn't go with an AC and while there are times it would be nice to have some cold air blowing on me I doubt it will help much without a top of some kind. Our summer weather brings rain so if you plan to drive much in the summer you may want to get a hard top or maybe the new premium top from factory five. My wife and I take our rides in the morning when its cooler and less chance of rain. Insulate your car with a good sound and heat deadening material. I used Damplifier and EZ cool and the car is very solid feeling without any excess heat in the foot boxes. This might sound weird, but I installed a heater and seat heaters for our winter drives. We enjoy both of them. I also have the wipers just in case. If you want to drive over to Tampa you're welcome to see my car. I'll give you and the wife a ride. Welcome to the forum.
Jeff
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Mark III complete kit ordered 12/03/2007, received #6351 1/22/2008 Homemade mods: driver footbox extension with deadpedal and dimmer switch, widened passenger footbox, brake reservoir mounting bracket, under trunk storage box, custom dash and dash extension, heater forward box, custom glove box, under dash switch panel, Explorer motor carb conversion, first start 7/10/2010, paint by Performance Automotive 11/20/2010-5/7/2011, Graduated 11/22/2011
Like Jeff I have wipers, heated seats for the cool evenings in the "winter", and plenty of insulation. I did not want A/C and I usually don't drive much in the summer (not too many shows/events to go to). If there's one thing I regret not installing is footbox vents. I helped a friend install them in his car and it really helps. Mind you our foot boxes aren't melting my shoes or anything, but on hot days on a long drive they do get a little toasty...
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Last edited by Mustang Man; 09-28-2012 at 07:22 PM..
I used spray on insulation inside of the footboxes and the entire cockpit. No A/C needed because most of my driving was done at night or in our super cold Miami winters My feet never got lose to being hot and my motor at the time was a 306 with twin turbos. Drain holes just in case you got hit with rain but that was it.
I'm building nother one right now and I will think about seat warmers.
Cheers
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FFR4398. Powder coated chassis, pin drive IRS, custom side pipes, custom 289 FIA features, all aluminum 4.6L DOHC with Twin Turbos, Tremec TKOII, and lots of other goodies.
If Beverly Hills is closer for you you are welcome to come here for a ride etc. I do still have a body buck that you are welcome to come and get. You will find the buck very usefull during your build. I do have wipers and vents for the foot boxes that do a good job.
Like Jeff I have wipers, heated seats for the cool evenings in the "winter", and plenty of insulation. I did not want A/C and I usually don't drive much in the summer (not too many shows/events to go to). If there's one thing I regret installing is footbox vents. I helped a friend install them in his car and it really helps. Mind you our foot boxes aren't melting my shoes or anything, but on hot days on a long drive they do get a little toasty...
HTH...
Mark
You meant regret NOT installing, I hope. I just ordered my CobraEarl kit.
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MKIV Roadster....FFR7694
3-link Moser, Wilwood brakes, 347, TKO
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
On my first car, I wrapped the headers and it helped keep the heat down considerably. I did not have footbox vents but they are a good idea. If you don't want to wrap the headers because of the stories people who never have done so read and believe on the internets, you can install shields on the boxes themselves. "Drain holes" for rain are not needed. When driving the car, rain will mostly stay out of the car. This has been scientifically tested by towing the car on an open trailer for a few hours in rain while being sure the car was filling with water. For you to have enough water to need holes, you'll need to leave the car stationary for an extended, torrential rain storm. If you see rain imminent, you seek a gas station and beer. If the car does get wet, which it probably will to some degree at some point, it will dry out fine. Don't worry much about that.
My new car will have a Lemans top. If you plan to take overnight trips in the car, it is a good idea to have a top of some sort - whether hard or soft. It will make longer trips more comfortable, and the a/c more effective, if you choose to have it. A friend in Orlando has a/c on his car and he likes it. I would never do it.
Thanks guys. Question on the foot box vents. Are most folks using forced air via a fan of some sorts or just ram air from forward motion?
Complete agree on the seat heaters. Forgot about that one. Both cars have that today and my wife and I use them Nov-Feb.
For the folks that have AC, I was thinking mainly just dumping it down on our legs and trying to figure something out to get it to the back of the seat. Is this a futile effort? Grew up in FL, so the heat is not a killer, but nice to walk into a restaurant without the big sweat spot on the back of your shirt.
The footbox vent kit most people use is Cobra Earl's setup and it uses small fans for forced ventilation when needed (you can direct wire or use a switch). They also have bowden cables to close off in the cold months...
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Footbox vents with a fan for sure - I used RV sewer hose from WalMart and put seperate handles for the gates and switches for the fans so that driver and passenger can choose their own settings.
I also installed vents in the trans tunnel. Do a search and you will see some options. I used some from a GMC yukon - maybe $12 or so. They provide some more air flow when moving. It helps some. Maybe not useful if you go with air.
I used RAAMmat BXT plus Tru-Max Super Insulator on top of that on foot boxes, trans tunnel, rear wall of cockpit and floor of foot boxes. It works. Also used the RAAMmat on all aluminum in trunk to help deaden the sound.
It will be cold in the winter at times. Seems like we are guaranteed 45 degrees or so in the AM for our run to the Nav-a-Gator each January . I have an auto electric blanket for my wife that plugs into an accessory outlet that makes a big difference.
We have been on a 4 1/2 hour trip in the rain and if the rain is heavy and steady, it's no fun. We carry some lightweight rain ponchos in the trunk at all times as well as some towels to dry off dash and gauges and inside of windshield, etc.
Where are you located?
Look at the DSSC Deep South Cobra Club - Home - even while building, it can be helpful to go to some events as a spectator to look at cars and talk to owners for ideas. Next event will be at The Lake Mirror show in Lakeland on October 20th.
HTH
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Mike MK III 11/18/04 Non Donor, T&L 347, Carb, 3.73, TKO 600, 3 Link, Levy SA Konis, Cobra Brakes F&R, Bullits with Sumitomos, Dual Rollbars, Black w/Anthracite Grey Metallic Stripes
The premium soft top from FFR would be at the top of the list just under HVAC. Puts on in 10 minutes once you get the hang of it. I learned mine in the build stage so I wouldn't mess up a freash paint job. It is very easy to install both initial and once learn the steps.
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MK4 Complete Kit #7327 delivered 9 Oct 2010. Roller 12 Jan 2011, First start 22 Dec 2011, 427W (7 Liters) FAST EFI 548 hp, 543 TQ @ flywheel w/ Billit Specialties front end. IRS aluminum case 3.55 gear w/locker, solid bushings. Tremec T56 6 speed, NITTO NT555 EXTREME ZR on Halibrand 17"X9" front 17"X10.5" rear, FFR Bump steer kit, PS, PB, Vintage Air A/C-heater, IDIDIT steering column w/flashers, turn signal, Hi-Low beam switch & horn, Premium rag top, double roll bars.
Footbox vents with a fan for sure - I used RV sewer hose from WalMart and put seperate handles for the gates and switches for the fans so that driver and passenger can choose their own settings.
I also installed vents in the trans tunnel. Do a search and you will see some options. I used some from a GMC yukon - maybe $12 or so. They provide some more air flow when moving. It helps some. Maybe not useful if you go with air.
I used RAAMmat BXT plus Tru-Max Super Insulator on top of that on foot boxes, trans tunnel, rear wall of cockpit and floor of foot boxes. It works. Also used the RAAMmat on all aluminum in trunk to help deaden the sound.
It will be cold in the winter at times. Seems like we are guaranteed 45 degrees or so in the AM for our run to the Nav-a-Gator each January . I have an auto electric blanket for my wife that plugs into an accessory outlet that makes a big difference.
We have been on a 4 1/2 hour trip in the rain and if the rain is heavy and steady, it's no fun. We carry some lightweight rain ponchos in the trunk at all times as well as some towels to dry off dash and gauges and inside of windshield, etc.
Where are you located?
Look at the DSSC Deep South Cobra Club - Home - even while building, it can be helpful to go to some events as a spectator to look at cars and talk to owners for ideas. Next event will be at The Lake Mirror show in Lakeland on October 20th.
My input: Notwithstanding any instructions or videos to the contrary, do not mount the driver side footbox blast gate on the top-the hose get's mostly crushed closed when the body is mounted. I'd highly recommend mounting the driver blast gate on the forward footbox panel. For the passenger side top mounting works fine.
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Rick
Mk IV 7329, '04 Mach 1 donor, 3 link, FFR lowers, heater, Kirkey seats w/seat heaters, dual rollbars, Kumho Ecsta XS 255/315s on 9/10.5 x 17 Halibrand replicas; , Lexus Indigo Ink Pearl/Arctic White stripes
-picked up 9/25/10
-first start 3/9/12
-go kart 3/18/12
-complete 7/24/12 http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/...0Construction/
I'm in my fourth year (10,000 miles) of Florida driving. I have trans tunnel vents and Second Shin Damplifier insulation. Feet are not an issue foir heat. If you drive in the summer the back of your shirt and the seat of your pants WILL be wet. Who cares? Your in a roadster. By the way, you WILL get caught in the rain. You and the car dry.
Kevin
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MarkIII, FMS BOSS302,WC T5, Holley 570, MSD Dizzy and Coil, 17"Cobra R's, 3-link, Classic Gauges, Forte's, Everson, Breeze, Finish Line, Ron Francis, Russ Thompson, 5-Star Ford, Gas-N, VPM, Whitby, Dark Water Customs, Herb's, SEcond Skin
If you're coming over to Lake Mirror my car will not be there, as I have to work the Mustang show (we do a small show-within-a-show like the Corvette and Cobra guys). Anyway, I'll be over by the lake where the Mustang parking is, but feel free to stop by the club tent and ask for me (only Mark in the club) if you want to chat Roadsters for a few minutes.
I usually get a chance to run up to the Cobra parking area on my lunch break too...
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
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My feet never got lose to being hot and my motor at the time was a 306 with twin turbos. Drain holes just in case you got hit with rain but that was it.
UP2NOGOOD
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