Well it's been awhile. No major problems until recently. Where the clutch cable connects to the firewall, it keeps coming disconnected, leaving the cable slack and ineffective. Since it's still all connected, any ideas on how to re-secure it to the firewall without tearing everything apart?
What do you mean "disconnected"? If your clutch is adjusted right it shouldn't come disconnected unless it's out of adjustment (too loose) and the cable comes off the clutch quadrant or the cable breaks. Here is how my MK3 is put together. How is yours different?
Well it's been awhile. No major problems until recently. Where the clutch cable connects to the firewall, it keeps coming disconnected, leaving the cable slack and ineffective. Since it's still all connected, any ideas on how to re-secure it to the firewall without tearing everything apart?
A picture is definitely in order here.
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FFR 7386 MK IV Roadster
302 Block/347 Stroker/Mass-Flo/TKO 500/8.8 Moser Rear/Manual Brakes & Steering
Build Began 12/6/2010
First Start 11/18/2011
Go Kart 11/24/2011
Registered and on the Road 8/11/2012
Paint Winter-2012 at Metalmorphous
Picked up from Paint 4/6/2013. Awaiting graduation pics to make it official! My Build Project Website
I don't have that knurled knob mounting bracket. That stock single point attachment bracket that's fixed to the plastic housing of the cable is what I bolted to the firewall. Sorry no pics, I'm forever on the road.
How do you adjust your clutch then? I've never seen it any way but how it shows in the pic. If your missing parts, cl FFR or I'm sure the auto parts store would have them. I've seen it at summit as well.
I tought that you are supposed to remove the black rubber spacer on the clutch cable if you have a firewall adjuster
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MKIII 4281 Non Donor Build|LevyRacing 5-Link Rear Suspension|LevyRacing Koni Double-Adjustable Shocks|LevyRacing 13″ 6-Piston Wilwood High-Clearance Front Brake Kit|LevyRacing 12.2″ Live Axle Rear Street Brake Kit|SBF 302 bored and stroked build by Borowski's race 500HP|TKO-500|FFR Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 17″ x 9″ Front and 17″ x 10.5″ Rear|ISIS Intelligent Multiplex wiring System 3 cell with InLINK RF control module|Alex's standard Glove Box|Casey Design Modular dash
Nope, it stays. If you don't use it the rubber piece the cable is too long. I'm not sure how you put yours together but it sounds like you didn't install the firewall clutch cable adjuster but you used the rubber spacer in your build. If that is the case, how did you adjust your clutch? I guess the bottom line is, if you didn't build yours like the picture shows, rebuild it like that and your problems will go away.
It sounds like you ordered the complete kit from FFR. If so, you should have received the adjuster. Call them if you didn't get it and have them send it to you, then put it in. It's a pretty simple job to do. Your firewall/aluminum should be pre-drilled so installing it isn't bad if you can get to the nuts in your foot box. (you did put in an access panel, right?)
If not, it isn't an easy job. One (small) person will have to lay on their back in the foot box to hold the nuts while the other is above doing an acrobatic move to reach back and tighten the bolts.
Good Luck
Nope, it stays. If you don't use it the rubber piece the cable is too long.
I am not ragging on you I am at that point and I just looking for the right answer, I just don't want to do it twice but every picture I have seen and on every thread I found says that you are supposed to removed it if you are using a firewall adjuster,
I just spent a hour searching and found the same thing
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MKIII 4281 Non Donor Build|LevyRacing 5-Link Rear Suspension|LevyRacing Koni Double-Adjustable Shocks|LevyRacing 13″ 6-Piston Wilwood High-Clearance Front Brake Kit|LevyRacing 12.2″ Live Axle Rear Street Brake Kit|SBF 302 bored and stroked build by Borowski's race 500HP|TKO-500|FFR Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 17″ x 9″ Front and 17″ x 10.5″ Rear|ISIS Intelligent Multiplex wiring System 3 cell with InLINK RF control module|Alex's standard Glove Box|Casey Design Modular dash
I am not ragging on you I am at that point and I just looking for the right answer, I just don't want to do it twice but every picture I have seen and on every thread I found says that you are supposed to removed it if you are using a firewall adjuster,
I just spent a hour searching and found the same thing
OK, Understood. I guess whatever makes it work is the way you should do it.
Maybe this post will help. It shows my frustration with the way it was originally set up and what worked for me. Note in post 15, I took the black spacer to my grinder and ground about half of the rubber off to make it fit. It was cheaper than Fortes spacer.
OK, Understood. I guess whatever makes it work is the way you should do it.
Maybe this post will help. It shows my frustration with the way it was originally set up and what worked for me. Note in post 15, I took the black spacer to my grinder and ground about half of the rubber off to make it fit. It was cheaper than Fortes spacer.
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Manual Clutch cable
Linear Mode
