Pulling out the Trans to Replace Clutch in a Mk II

[Mike in CA]

Just for future reference; Is there any way the transmission can be pulled out of a Mk II without pulling the engine? I have seen a couple of differing opinions over the years on here concerning this, but as I may need to do a clutch replacement in the near future, I thought I would re-visit this issue. Just so everyone knows my specifics, I again have a late Mark II with Tremec 3550 and a Quicktime bellhousing.

One post a while back said that if the angle cross brace under the trans is cut out, then the trans can be pulled and then weld the brace back in, but that sounds a little cludgy to me. All thoughts will be appreciated.

Mikey

[Bob Cowan]

If you have a standard T5 trans, it's doable. Flip it on it's side and move it back. I have a heavy duty tremec TKO. There's no way that's going to happen. It faster and less work to simply pull the engine. And you don't have to spend as much time lying on your back.

[nickm1024]

Originally Posted by Bob Cowan

If you have a standard T5 trans, it's doable. Flip it on it's side and move it back. I have a heavy duty tremec TKO. There's no way that's going to happen. It faster and less work to simply pull the engine. And you don't have to spend as much time lying on your back.

Can you pull a TKO in a mk3? Ive pulled a t5 twice fairly easy. TKO I know is larger.

[Bob Cowan]

The MIII has a removable trans mount and cross bar. It should be pretty easy to drop the trans from there - just like a Mustang.

[nickm1024]

Originally Posted by Bob Cowan

The MIII has a removable trans mount and cross bar. It should be pretty easy to drop the trans from there - just like a Mustang.

I just didn't know if a TKO would rotate on its side to pull out with it being larger. I'm currently trying to decide between an astro t5 and a TKO as im going with a 408 this winter. Lots of TKO's available used for good coin but I didn't know how easy to remove/install

[CraigS]

I have helped a couple of times r and r a T-5 in a MkII. It wasn't fun at all. I don't think a tremec will come out. It might be worth looking at making that trans mount removeable like a MkIII as part of the job.

[Mike in CA]

Thanks for the info, but so far none of you have answered my question. Since my car is a Mk II and not a MK III and I have a TREMRC 3550 and not a T5. But perhaps someone that actually knows the answer will chime in. I would have blown up a T5 in the first month with my 408 Since it puts out almost 600 lbs of torque.

[Radar Pete]

I have a late model MKII and have droped the tranny out the bottom. I have a T5. If the 3550 is a quarter of an inch or more wider than a T5, it will not come out the bottom. Pete

[Kiwiracer]

I've had this saved for a while...

Author
Topic: Pulling a T-5 from a Mk 2. Tricks??
FFr 5332
Junior Charter Member
Member # 8456

Remember reading a post on this, but a search yielded nothing I could use. I'm pulling my T-5,( Mark 2 frame ) have it seperated from the bellhousing, and just won't quite back up far enough to get the input shaft clear of the bellhousing. Is there any tricks before I go to the trouble of borrowing a hoist and moving the engine forward? It's pretty close...maybe I'm missing something
Posts: 9 | From: Tucson, Az. | Registered: Dec 2005 | IP:
mrmustang

Directions originally sent to me by Wade C back in 2002. I've used them on both mark I and Mark II chassis's without a hitch.

"Put your car up on jackstands. Remove the shifter boot and shifter handle. Depending on what kind of shifter you have, you may also be able to remove the shifter stub for another 2" clearance (my Hurst came right out). Remove driveshaft, speedo cable, and all wires to trans. Place jack or block of wood under bellhousing to support the back of the engine. Remove all 4 bolts from trans mount (in trans, and in crossmember), but leave the mount there for the trans to sit on
momentarily. Remove the 4 bolts where the trans bolts to the bellhousing. The trans needs to slide rear-ward enough so the input shaft will clear the bellhousing (about 6"). In order to slide it that
far rearward, you'll have to rotate it first, 90° onto its side. One side clears the other doesn't. Sorry I can't remember which way! Anyway, it will then slide straight back, and you can drop it out nose first."

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FFr 5332
Junior Charter Member
Member # 8456


Thanks! looks like the driver's side of the trans is the side to rotate it onto...more potrusion and bulk on the pass. side. Still open to any other tricks.
Posts: 9 | From: Tucson, Az. | Registered: Dec 2005 |
jaysherman
[IMG]file:///C:\DOCUME~1\ARRANH~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image012.jpg[/IMG]
Charter Member
Member # 933

I tried really hard and could not get it out on a mark II without pulling engine forward. I rotated the trans every which way and no luck.

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89 Donor, EFI, E-cam, 4X4 headers, 355 gears,
Posts: 1192 | From: Northern California | Registered: May 2002 | IP:

Unfortunately no idea with the tremec, but maybe this'll help others.

[Bob Cowan]

Originally Posted by Mike in CA

Since my car is a Mk II and not a MK III and I have a TREMRC 3550 and not a T5.

A 3550 is a TKO. There's no way I can remove mine without pulling the engine. I'v tried it.

[Richard Oben]

TKO MK II not going to come out without moving the engine. You may not have to remove the engine but you will need to move it forward. HTH, Richard.

[accobra66]

Although this sounds completely crazy hear me out.

With my Mark II there is no bracing above the trans. Only tin and carpeting.

If you were to remove the carpeting from the trans tunnel and the tin could it be lifted up and out through the interior?

Perhaps too wide but I am fairly certain just looking at spacing that I could get my Richmond 5 speed between the square tubing and out the top.

I must be way off base here because I do not think I have ever heard of this. Frankly, I hope never to have to try it.

[Radar Pete]

For KIWIRACER: You're doing it correctly. Rotate the tranny 90 degrees toward the passenger side and slide it back. It should clear the input shaft. It worked for me. I did it five years ago (and will do it again this winter) but don't remember any other hints. I'm sure that you drained the tranny, removed the driveshaft, and shifter. Don't know what else to say. Pete

[Mike in CA]

My engine sits way back in the engine compartment for some reason. Probably because i have custom solid motor mounts. There is a good foot or more of space between the front of the engine and the rear of the radiator support. So I should have plenty enough space if i unbolt the motor mounts and disconnect fuel, electric and exhaust connections to just slide the engine forward without removing it. The oil lines have loads of room and slack to move forward, so they should not even need to be disconnected. If I do that and if needed, I can also unbolt the Quicktime bell housing, i should be able to get the TKO out without completely pulling the engine. I also have a center mount hurst shifter instead of the standard rear mount, so it can be easily unbolted and if necessary the shift kit can also be removed. What are thoughts on that plan?

I also installed the tunnel carpet with snaps and the tunnel cover with screws, so both can be easily removed if anyone thinks that the trans can come out from the top, although I have not heard of that being done. I really only made tunnel access easier for any minor maintenance. But I welcome any thought on that idea as well.

I just have bad fellings about pulling the engine with the body on and screwing up a very expensive paint job. And since the 351w is just slightly smaller than a big block, it does not give very much room to get by the body. It was a real PITA putting the engine and trans in as one piece without the body on, so I sure would not look forward to doing it with the body on.
I had to crank it at such a steep angle it barely cleared the firewall and radiator support without the body so there is several inches less space to the rear with the body on. I think i would have to put the trans and engine in seperately instead of as one piece as I did with the body off.

So keep sending your thoughts and thanks for all the help.

Mikey

[Frank Messina]

ACCOBRA66, you have one of the late Mk 1 crossover cars, not a full MkII. The MkIIs had a cross braced backbone so nothing is coming out the top on those cars.

Mike in CA, cover the fenders and the nose with furniture pads, round up a couple extra hands and pull the whole thing out. I doubt your engine sits any farther back than anyone elses, and while sliding it forward may seem tempting trying to R and R the trans from some odd position dangling off a hoist will be murder. FWIW
Frank

[slapshot2]

I removed a T5 from mine and replaced it with a TKO600.

Fluids were drained.
Transmission turned on its side and pulled back, and the new one installed reversing the process.

This was a complete removal of the bell housing, clutch etc and replaced with a Quick Time housing, aluminum fly wheel et al.

[Frank Messina]

C'mon you guys. The guy has a Mark II with a backbone and a Tremec TKO. Not a Mk I, not a t-5. They're not the same animal. I know we try to be helpful but exploits involving combinations other than what Mikey has aren't relevant to his situation.
Frank

[Bill Hughes]

When I built my car, 347 and TKOII, I installed motor and trans as a unit. Can you pull that same unit with the body in place?

If yes, that sounds like the best option.

[Bill Lohmiller]

Originally Posted by Frank Messina

Mike in CA, cover the fenders and the nose with furniture pads, round up a couple extra hands and pull the whole thing out. I doubt your engine sits any farther back than anyone elses, and while sliding it forward may seem tempting trying to R and R the trans from some odd position dangling off a hoist will be murder. FWIW
Frank

X2. MKII, 351W block, TKO -- have done the whole thing twice with body (painted) on. Good lift and leveler and just taking it real slow and easy and there is no need for any contact or issues anywhere, whatsoever.



I suppose if the ONLY thing I was doing was the trans I might be tempted to try and do it from underneath on a 4 post or other lift with a proper trans jack etc. -- which I have done on other cars. (And yes I have done the jack stands and trans on chest thing too in my younger years but NOT by choice!!)

But on this one and for the reasons Frank mentions, being able to do whatever work is required clutch wise etc. in a proper comfortable position more than offsets anything to do with pulling the whole thing versus not.....

Regards,
Bill

[cwhoofgator]

Originally Posted by Mike in CA

Thanks for the info, but so far none of you have answered my question. Since my car is a Mk II and not a MK III and I have a TREMRC 3550 and not a T5. But perhaps someone that actually knows the answer will chime in. I would have blown up a T5 in the first month with my 408 Since it puts out almost 600 lbs of torque.

Answere is NO SIR.

[Bob Cowan]

Pulling the engine out is not that big of a deal. From start to finish, it take me about 4 hours to get the engine out and on a stand. And that includes bringing the hoist up from the basement and putting it together.

That sounds like a lot of work, but really isn't. It's easier work than pulling a clutch on your back. I'v done that, too, once or twice.

[Mike in CA]

Thanks guys, I think you have pretty much convinced me that the engine has to come out. I am hoping to put that off till next spring. My biggest problem is, since i put the thing together, I have had 8 back surgeries and I am not sure i am up to the task at this point. I know a shop would charge $2,500 just to r and r the engine, plus the clutch parts and labor for that. So I am in kind of a quandry. I can't afford a shop to do it and i am not sure I am still able to do it. But for now the car still works fine, but i know the clutch will need to be done at some point in the near future. I guess i will figure it out when the time comes.

Mikey

[Bob Cowan]

Bring it over to my place. We'll get it all done in a single day. Maybe two.

[Mike Brasfield]

I've replaced clutches on about all models except the MK4. I find it is a lot easier just remove the engine and trans as a unit. While out you can do anything you want in the engine compartment. Just did one last week.

[Stinson Pilot]

Mike,
Is the top of your tranny tunnel removable? If so, it's easy to take it out from the top.

My top is removable just for this reason. I can remove the top cover, both seats and it comes right out through the top.

Already done it a few times.

For the record: Mine is a MKII with a 3550.