So I'm starting to mock up my front end. The book wants me to mount the upper control arms to the top of the mounting brackets. I've also found on this and the other forum that they're supposed to be mounted vertically on the mounting bracket. There are holes for both mounting locations. n
When I mount the arm to the top of the bracket the geometry seems off when I finally get to mounting the spindles. However when I look at mounting the arms vertically there doesn't seem like there is any way to get nut on the rear bolt.
The FFR spindles, or SN95 spindles w/ the SAI mod, should have the UCA mounted on the vertical surface. Fox spindles are taller and require the UCA be mounted on the horizontal surface.
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
The FFR spindles, or SN95 spindles w/ the SAI mod, should have the UCA mounted on the vertical surface. Fox spindles are taller and require the UCA be mounted on the horizontal surface.
FFR spindles. I think that vertical is the correct mounting location so I'm with you there. The rear bolt is going to be a problem. I don't know how i'm going to fit a nut in there.
FFR supplies flanged bolts and nuts for the forward mounting hole and non-flanged for the rear. They used to supply flanged for both until some builders became befuddled by the concept of having to grind a flat on the flanged head to allow clearance
Yes, vertical mount is the proper position when using FFR spindles.
Pardon me for saying... But if you look at you nuts......
You will find that there are two that don't have the flanges. I believe that they are silver. They are for the rear. Black flanged ones in the front. There will be four of those, but of course you only need two.
I went through this recently. The base kit manual is not clear on what to do with the FFR spindles.
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MKIV Roadster....FFR7694
3-link Moser, Wilwood brakes, 347, TKO
Pardon me for saying... But if you look at you nuts......
You will find that there are two that don't have the flanges. I believe that they are silver. They are for the rear. Black flanged ones in the front. There will be four of those, but of course you only need two.
I went through this recently. The base kit manual is not clear on what to do with the FFR spindles.
I bought my kit used, so not all of the packaging was as shipped from the factory. The uppers were actually half mounted on the frame which is why I was a bit confused. It still seems tight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner
FFR supplies flanged bolts and nuts for the forward mounting hole and non-flanged for the rear. They used to supply flanged for both until some builders became befuddled by the concept of having to grind a flat on the flanged head to allow clearance
Yes, vertical mount is the proper position when using FFR spindles.
Jeff
I'd actually prefer to grind down the flange. Even with out a flanged nut it looks tight. I will get a nut that isn't flanged to test fit it and then grind down the flanged nut for final assemble, assuming everything fits.
TFK,
You haven't said what vintage kit you are building. If it is a Mk 4, the SAI mod is incorporated in the spindles and the previous comments re mounting to the outer vertical mount points is correct. For MK 3.1 or older F5 spindles without SAI, the inner mount points are correct.
TFK,
You haven't said what vintage kit you are building. If it is a Mk 4, the SAI mod is incorporated in the spindles and the previous comments re mounting to the outer vertical mount points is correct. For MK 3.1 or older F5 spindles without SAI, the inner mount points are correct.
It's MK4. I'm sure Jeff is right, I just need to find a nut that will fit on to that bolt that isn't flanged and test fit it. One of the nuts from the coil overs will work I bet. It looked really right though. I'll probably find it will work. I was dumb to test fit the front end last before I wrapped up for the day. I spent most of my time on aluminum and thought oh gee lets see how the the front suspension looks. SMH
They used to supply flanged for both until some builders became befuddled by the concept of having to grind a flat on the flanged head to allow clearance
Jeff
X2 On what Jeff said. When I got my kit they were all flanged. So out with the grinder took a little bit off of two flanged nuts and slide them in. All worked out good.
Ed.
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FFR 7570, 402sr ROUSH 455HP, TKO 5 speed, Gordon Levy's Wilwood brakes, IRS 327gears Torsen Diff, Forte's Hydraulic Clutch, 15to1 AGR Power steering rack and lots.... LOTS more it never seems to end?
TEMPTATION: because willpower is no match for Horsepower!
X2 On what Jeff said. When I got my kit they were all flanged. So out with the grinder took a little bit off of two flanged nuts and slide them in. All worked out good.
Ed.
Yep, all is well. That's what I get for eye balling things instead of testing first.
More sheet metal today. I'm starting to think I should have bought more drill bits.
Yep, all is well. That's what I get for eye balling things instead of testing first.
More sheet metal today. I'm starting to think I should have bought more drill bits.
I had very good luck using a right angle drill and dewalt bits from Lowes. The gold colored ones. I only went through about 8 bits.
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#7619 MKIV IRS complete kit, non donor
351 tko 500
Delivered Nov 13, 2011
First start December 31, 2011
First gocart Jan 12 ,2012
picked up from painter 5/5/2012
Graduation 05/12/201
Yep, all is well. That's what I get for eye balling things instead of testing first.
More sheet metal today. I'm starting to think I should have bought more drill bits.
They make stick wax for cutting and drilling, but you can get a similar result with a small candle, keep it nearby, and every 3 or 4 holes, touch the end of the drill bit (it'll be nice and hot) to the candle, this will make any drill bit last longer.
Of course, don't light the candle - - just sayin'
HTH,
Derrick
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Mk4 #7368, June 26, 2011 delivery, Complete kit, IRS 3.08, 460 with CJ heads, TKO-600, flush mount e-brake on tunnel, shaker hood scoop, hidden hood/trunk latches..., 17's with Nitto 555s.
Forget about all the flashy coatings, cobalt and other high priced stuff---plain ol' black oxide will cut faster and longer than any of 'em. As long as you don't break them you can drill every rivet hole with no more than 3 #30 bits
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