Over the long weekend I started work on the passenger door. The door sill needed a bit of buildup as well as the top of the door where it meets the cowl, I tried rolling the door edge and used a piece of radiator hose as a guide. It worked great.
I gapped the trunk and the hood so I am getting close to my goal of being able to pull the body.
I do have a couple more questions.
1) The Hood - I have the FFR hinges and they are a PITA to adjust to get the hood to close straight but I did it! I have noticed that the hood never closes quite the same twice. Sometimes straight but sometines a 1/16 to an 1/8 inch to the left or right. I was thinking of finding some rubber guide blocks to attach to the underside of the hood that would let the hood settle correctly each time. So I guess this is a 2 part question. Is this even a good idea? and if so any ideas where to find them?
2)What grit paper should I take the body filler down to. I have gone over it all with 180. Should I go to 220 or even finer. I am going to purchase a couple of rattle cans of guide coat and wonder how fine I need to be before applying it?
That is a great idea and I can fabricate something like it and not have to search for and buy something. I had never seen that build site before. It is fantastic!!
__________________
Paul
FFR Mark IV 7411 Picked up 04/08/11
3-link, SN95 spindles, rear discs
Engine: 302-385hp, T-5, 3.08
First go-cart 08/31/11
Body remounted 10/03/11
Registered as unplated 21/03/12
On the road in gel-coat 27/03/12
"Badges, Badges? We don't need no stinkin' Badges!"
Had to take some time away for our annual motorcycle pilgrimage to the mecca of twisty roads. Namely West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee.
Last weekend having pretty much finished the door fitting and doing the rolled edges I started on the parting lines. I was going to leave this until the body was off but decided to give it a try anyway. I must say the block sanding in an X pattern works great. Even with a block that was a little too stiff to curve right around the fenders it came out nice. I have applied 2 coats in these pictures and have got it so that a blind finger test cannot feel any transitions or high or low spots.
Picture 5 shows the results of the hood gapping as well which turned out fine.
__________________
Paul
FFR Mark IV 7411 Picked up 04/08/11
3-link, SN95 spindles, rear discs
Engine: 302-385hp, T-5, 3.08
First go-cart 08/31/11
Body remounted 10/03/11
Registered as unplated 21/03/12
On the road in gel-coat 27/03/12
"Badges, Badges? We don't need no stinkin' Badges!"
Awesome thread Paul and so timely... Can't believe I missed it until today... I' m almost at the body, but today it snowed so if feel cornered by winter, I don't know how much I can do body work inside vs outside from this point on...
I spent a few days dieting the harness, maybe I should have focused on the body instead...
Anyway, I had a couple questions for you: when I visited you in the spring you mentioned the door latch mod and we questioned if the body was marked correctly for the openings of the pass rollbar... Remember how they were not symmetrical with the driver's side based on the seam that comes across... How did that turn out?
nice work on the body those seams are looking very nice. I would suggest that you block sand the whole car this gives you a "true" surface to apply your primer then with the guide coat it will be a lot easier to btring the surface to a perfect smooth result. it also will give some bite to the primer that gel coat is to smooth for good adherence.. cant wait to see your car next summer with its final color.....
cheers
MK4
__________________
Mark IV Kit arrived on Sept 17 Th 2010
Engine started on December 23 Rd 2010
First GOKART ride December 27 th 2010.
Body work started on March 5 th 2011.
Interior and GoKart completed july 17th 2011
Paint completed november 30 th 2011
Police inspection march 7 th 2012
Mechanical inspection april 2nd. 2012
Tags and on the road may 9th 2012
I made the modification to the door latches and it was very easy and the latches are now much stronger.
After picking up the roll bar I drilled the holes exactly as marked and everything fit perfectly so it seems that the markings are accurate.
I hear you about the weather as it is getting pretty cold for applying filler I have now started the fender rolls and this morning after heating up the shed a little I trimmed the returns back to 1/4" and filled the backside. i took some pictures which i will try and post this afternoon.
t
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormie
Awesome thread Paul and so timely... Can't believe I missed it until today... I' m almost at the body, but today it snowed so if feel cornered by winter, I don't know how much I can do body work inside vs outside from this point on...
I spent a few days dieting the harness, maybe I should have focused on the body instead...
Anyway, I had a couple questions for you: when I visited you in the spring you mentioned the door latch mod and we questioned if the body was marked correctly for the openings of the pass rollbar... Remember how they were not symmetrical with the driver's side based on the seam that comes across... How did that turn out?
-W
__________________
Paul
FFR Mark IV 7411 Picked up 04/08/11
3-link, SN95 spindles, rear discs
Engine: 302-385hp, T-5, 3.08
First go-cart 08/31/11
Body remounted 10/03/11
Registered as unplated 21/03/12
On the road in gel-coat 27/03/12
"Badges, Badges? We don't need no stinkin' Badges!"
I will be sanding the body but all spraying and final smoothing will be done by my painter. At this point I am trying to get as much done as possible but whatever does not get done the painter will do. The final sand on the doors, hood and trunk lid can be done in my warm basement. There I can fill the gap between the inner and outer hood at the scoop cut out and fill the underside of the scoop.
[/B]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MK4
Hello Paul
nice work on the body those seams are looking very nice. I would suggest that you block sand the whole car this gives you a "true" surface to apply your primer then with the guide coat it will be a lot easier to btring the surface to a perfect smooth result. it also will give some bite to the primer that gel coat is to smooth for good adherence.. cant wait to see your car next summer with its final color.....
cheers
MK4
__________________
Paul
FFR Mark IV 7411 Picked up 04/08/11
3-link, SN95 spindles, rear discs
Engine: 302-385hp, T-5, 3.08
First go-cart 08/31/11
Body remounted 10/03/11
Registered as unplated 21/03/12
On the road in gel-coat 27/03/12
"Badges, Badges? We don't need no stinkin' Badges!"
I used one of these long boards. It is pretty expensive but works well. This particular board has three removable metal rods so you can adjust the stiffness for flat areas or modest curves. You could probably make up a few similar boards on your own from sheets of plywood of various thicknesses. The longer the board, the straighter the body.
Found similar ones on Eastwood... including a 15". Was the 21'" too long (shorter flats like doors and other tighter curves) and would you have preferred the 15"??? Not sure I want to buy both... so looking for the best compromise...
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