Not to worry mate. Just roll the car over, bleed the brakes and then roll it back over. Problem solved. Or I guess you could swap the calipers so the bleeder is up.
Everybody on here has made the same type of boo boo at some time.
Ron
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
I'd suggest a one man brake bleeding system like the one below. It's an investment but this is what I used. Never bled a brake before but it only took about 25 minutes to get all the air out.
The system pushes the fluid from each brake up to the MC. The system makes sense as air naturally likes to go up so you are working with gravity instead of against it (trying to push air downwards) the way old fashioned way. You can also do it by yourself. No more need for a brake bleeding partner.
Note to others in the future: The calipers are marked "LH" for the left and "RH" for the right side---UNLESS you swap them to ahead of the axle in which case LH goes to the right and vice-versa.
Make sure you do not have your calipers on the wrong side of the car. Sometimes they will still fit but the bleeder screw would be on the bottom trapping air on the top of the caliper. The bleeder screws need to be on the top of the caliper.
__________________
#4511 delivered 7/11/03 Born on 7/4/04. Every morning when I leave for work I pause as I walk by my FFR. Life is good!
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