I worked out the swap with Auto Meter and received the new gauge today. Since I had just picked up the car from getting the A/C system filled I was climbing the ladder to cloud 9, but I missed a rung somewhere along the way.
I checked out the new gauge and confirmed that it was the 201975, at least that is what the invoice and the sicker on the gauge says.
I get it hooked up and turn on the key, the gauge immediatelly goes past full. Turn off the key and it goes back to empty (note that the other gauge 201011* stayed at the past full level until I disconnedted it).
I only put about 6 gallons in the tank and it has been running for several "show-and-tells" as well as what the shop had to do for the A/C fill, so I know it isn't full.
I have sent an inquiry to Auto Meter, but I am asking if anyone has had that kind of experience, and has some idea of the problem.
I am using the undieted '88 harness. I traced all the circuits in the harness, and the Mustang gauge pod, to insure that my wiring connections were correct. I double checked that again tonight.
Any suggestions as to what I need to check next?...while I'm waiting on a response from Auto Meter, which probably won't be until Tuesday at the earliest.
PATIENCE!!!...PATIENCE!!!...PATIENCE!!!
Regards, Rick.
*In my original post I had the gauge I first bought identified as 201100, obviously that is incorrect.
It appears that I need to add a ground wire from the base of my fuel sender to the back of the gauge. No problem, I'm on it. I still could not get the gauge to read properly with a temporary ground wire though.
After serveral very informative e-Mail exchanges with the Service Department at Auto Meter, that included some very good information for me to pursue the solution to my problem, It became necessary to pull my sender for a bench check.
That also involved making my access panel larger, I had originally made it big enough to be able to connect the plug to the tank sender, but the body of the sender was too big for the hole I had there. I'm about done with that project, but getting the sender out took first place in my effort scheme for the day.
I got the sender out, and at the suggestion of Auto Meter I am sending it and my fuel gauge to them for testing. I don't know yet if they can do anything to my sender to make it work, or even if they have replacement parts to fix it.
Checking the sender is a free service that they provide.
They will receive the package on Monday, I should have some more information by Tuesday. I'll post an up-date when I do know something.
Again, I must say that I think that Auto Meter is doing a great job in helping me get a couple sticky issues resolved.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
I got my fuel gauge and sender back from Auto Meter's Tech folks. They verified my gauge is the correct one and that it is good, and that the sender was bad.
While searching for a replacement, I came across a suggestion that the resistance coil and /or the brush might need cleaning. With nothing to loose I took the sender apart and found that the brush could indeed use cleaning. I also cleaned the resistance coil.
When I put it back together I get between 16 and 160 Ohms when I sweep the float up and down through its arc of travel, those are the recommended readings. So far, so good.
I put the sender back in, connect the harness plug, and my added ground wire (suggested by the Auto Meter Tech), turned on the key and again had the needle sweep past full.
I took the sender back out and confirmed again that the 16 to 160 reading are still there. I also noticed that the fuel gauge needle will sweep past full even when the harness plug is disconnected. That puzzles me, (I'm using an undieted harness from an '88 GT).
I also confirmed that the wires I used to replace the printed circuits in the Mustang Gage Pod conform to the Ford Wiring Diagrams I have, for all the dash gauges, before I made the connections.
I send another request for help to Auto Meter. The Tech is off for a couple days.
So... while I am waiting I'm trying to wrap up the other little work items on my "get it done to put the body back on" list. Today I'm making the wiper gear tubes.
Does anyone have a clue as to why I'm getting the full meter sweep with the sender apparently now functioning properly (let alone when the sender is un-plugged)?
Regards, Rick.
For those who frequent the classifieds, I posted this there by mistake the other day.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
With the Ford gauge system and the way it reads the senders if you have any of the sending unit wires grounded it will peg the gauge to full or hot. For a test, turn on your ignition switch, pull the wire off your temp sender on the intake and then ground the wire to the intake. Your temp gauge will do the same thing.
So, this is telling me (3K miles away mind you) that your fuel level sender's signal wire to the gauge is shorted to ground somewhere. You can wire the gauge to the sender on the workbench with test wires/alligator clips and move the sender's float on the bench, the gauge should match your float position.
Lastly, do you have the factory anti-slosh module wired into the circuit? It might be causing a problem too...
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
With the Ford gauge system and the way it reads the senders if you have any of the sending unit wires grounded it will peg the gauge to full or hot. For a test, turn on your ignition switch, pull the wire off your temp sender on the intake and then ground the wire to the intake. Your temp gauge will do the same thing.
If I remember correctly I checked this when I was working with the Auto Meter Tech. I'll check it again to be sure. My check will be to disconnect the sender wire on both ends, insure continuity in the wire and check that there is no continuity to ground.
So, this is telling me (3K miles away mind you) that your fuel level sender's signal wire to the gauge is shorted to ground somewhere. You can wire the gauge to the sender on the workbench with test wires/alligator clips and move the sender's float on the bench, the gauge should match your float position.
I did not try this, I only checked the sender against my meters.
Lastly, do you have the factory anti-slosh module wired into the circuit? It might be causing a problem too...
I don't know. I'll check my wiring diagrams to see if I can find it and recognize it there, and in the wiring harness. Can you post a picture of what it looks like in case I can't find it?, just to insure I am looking at the correct thing. I don't remember that particular thing when I substituted my wiring for the printed circuits. If it is part of the standard harness I should have it as mine isn't dieted.
HTH...
Mark
Thanks for the assistance, I really need it at times (most times that is).
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
Mark can correct me if I'm wrong, but the anti-slosh module was a small circuit board attached to the gauge pod. I pulled mine off and wired it into the harness in a separate box.
One thing to remember is that on the sender itself the chassis of the sender is grounded and gets the ground both from one pin of the harness and through the tank itself. So that pin has to be your ground and the other pin to your gauge or the gauge will always see ground.
Rod is correct, it is a circuit board about two inches square on the back of the original cluster. It is used to dampen the fuel gauge reading so it doesn't swing wildly as the fuel sloshes around, hence the highly technical term of "anti-slosh module".
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Rod is correct, it is a circuit board about two inches square on the back of the original cluster. It is used to dampen the fuel gauge reading so it doesn't swing wildly as the fuel sloshes around, hence the highly technical term of "anti-slosh module".
Mark
My donor had a Salene Gauge Pod that I gave to my Son who was building up an older Fox Muatang at the time. I'll go to the cassifieds to see if I can fine one. If anyone reading this does have one and isn't usually in the calssified section, please go there and let me know.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
This brings up an interesting issue. A few months back I had new gauges (Smiths electrics) put in my car. I told the mechanic to remove the donor cluster mounted on the interior side of the firewall. Figured we didn't need it. I guess its the rear section of the donor gauge pod. I noticed later on that my fuel gauge "sloshes". So what do I do? This is obviously the cause. Is the "anti slosh module" something that I can purchase and re add to the fuel gauge wiring? Or do I need to find a gauge pod and remove that portion?
Rick,
You don't need the "anti-slosh" module, it just damps out the movements of the sender so your gauge doesn't move around when you are cornering or accelerating/braking. You should be able to get the correct gauge readings without it if the car is just sitting in the garage or you are moving the sender by hand. The module is a nice to have but if you can live with the gauge movements when driving then don't worry about it.
That is correct, it isn't necessary for the gauge to work, but the dampening does help prevent you from going nuts watching the gauge flutter everywhere!
A lot of new aftemarket gauges have it built in, like my Auto Meter Cobalts.
You can get the anti-slosh module new still. I believe National Parts Depot sells it in their Fox Mustang catalog. They sell it under M-10E849-1 for $111. It's new and a Ford part, but you might find one for less on eBay or here.
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
AC Bill said he may have one available, I sent him a P/M.
I have not tried moving the float up and down out of the tank just yet.
I am still having the problem of the gauge pegging past full whenever power is applied, even when the sender is not plugged into the harness.
Tomorrow I should be able to find time to double check the wire from the sender to the gauge to insure that I don't have a fault to ground there. Today I finished up wiring my interior lights with an unswitched power supply for the clock, radio memory and the interior lights.
I ran an extra ground wire for the fuel gauge, at the suggestion of Auto Meter, and may be able to use that circuit as the "sender wire" to see if it makes the gauge read the content of the tank.
Then I can make the dicision on the Anti-Slosh Module, I'll probably want one in any event.
I do appreciate all the help and advice.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
Rick - Sorry to cut in on your post. As always this forum is a wealth of information, Thanks guys.
I thought your post was connected to the thread, so I don't see any problem.
Yes there are Anti-Slosh Modules available at both the Forum Classifieds and your local Ford dealer (as I have been lead to believe reading through several posts) as well as the ability to make one yourself from the directions in a previous post.
It only works when we can share information to the best of our knowledge and help one-another out. I, for one, welcome all comments and suggestions. The more you learn the easier it is to make the correct decision.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
I just got a reply form the Auto Meter Tech I have been working with, very informative fellow.
The Auto Meter gauge I have, and probably most of the newer ones, does not need the anti-slosh module. The gauge was designed to respond slowly.
I had noticed that the needle would peg past full, but that it didn't snap over there. Auto Meter confirmed that that is the design to keep the needle seady.
I have a couple wiring checks to make, at his suggestion, that I can't get to unitl later this afternoon, sitting the grandkids for now, that should clarify if I have a bad wire in the Sender Circuit, or a bad Sender.
I'll post the results when I get them.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
The Auto Meter Tech suggested that I connect the harness to the sender and to the gauge, turn on the power, observe the gauge going past full, disconnect the sender wire at the tank end and touch it to a grounding spot.
If the Gauge goes to empty it suggests a bad sender.
If the gauge stays past full it suggests an open circuit between the sender and the gauge.
In doing the test the gauge stayed past full.
An idea struck me.
I connected my added ground wire to the "S" terminal and disconnected the existing harness wire at the gauge. I connected the added ground wire to the appropraite terminal on the sender and turned on the key...
..THE GAUGE CAME UP TO ABOUT 1/4 FULL, AND STAYER THERE...
I relayed my finding to the Auto Meter Tech for his opinion on keeping the added ground wire as my Sender Circuit.
Hopefully, the final up-date will be that I am correct and that problem is solved.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
Congrats! It sounds like you found the issue. Now if you REALLY want the gold star, find where the open is on the original wire in your harness so you don't have the loose tie-wrapped external wire (your secondary ground you used) as your sender wire!
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Congrats! It sounds like you found the issue. Now if you REALLY want the gold star, find where the open is on the original wire in your harness so you don't have the loose tie-wrapped external wire (your secondary ground you used) as your sender wire!
Mark
I've thought that I need to do just that, in case there is another issue with whatever is causing that fault. I did try to chase down that circuit when I put the added groiund in, but I didn't see anything that stood out as "damage to the harness" anywhere along the route. I'll have to be much more specific in running it down. For now, that will take a second seat to getting my body on and getting my DMV inspections out of the way so I can actually start to drive the car.
Thanks to all for the assistance, I expect there will be more before I am through.
BTW, the Auto Meter Tech wants me to add some fuel and observe the gauge change to be sure that I'm good for now. I'll do that this afternoon.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
I only have a 2 Gal fuel can, which costs almost $10 to fill up, but I got some gas today. When my Son came over to pick up the grandkids I had him watch the gauge as I put the fuel in the tank.
The needle did move slightly towards full. It moved about the correct amount for the 2 gal put in as well.
Now I'm on track to put the body on next week. I've got a couple weather proofing things to do around the dropped foot boxes before I "cover up the easy access" with the body there.
Thanks to all who offered advice and encouragement.
Regards, Rick.
__________________
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
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