Tips for keeping the coolant hoses from blowing off?
I began cutting my FFR radiator hoses and installing them last night.
I was wondering if there are any tips for preventing them from popping off? (I've read a couple posts that the didn't secure them well enough and resulted in coolant all over the place).
I secured the rubber hose adapters that FFR supplied and pushed them on as far as they would go, all the way to the radiator / block shoulder, then inserted the FFR steel hose as far as it would go (bottomed it out). I tightened the screw clamp down with a screw driver as much as I could, then tightened them with a socket wrench, pretty tight (being careful not to over-tighten and strip the screw).
Is there anything I should consider? I avoided using any lubricant (ie: WD40) to make it easier to slip the rubber hose adapters on, and just muscled them into submission.
I guess I'm overly concerned from reading the posts and given all of the points of failure with these hoses. (a normal daily driver has 4 hose clamps, my roadster has 12!)
F5R #7446 Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, First Go-Kart 11/17/12
Licensed 4/24/13!! Wahoo!
I replaced the stock FFR supplied clamps with Aero-Seal SS liner clamps from Breeze. They have a liner to keep the rubber from binding, so less likely to strip out. Also double hose clamped many spots on the SS ribbed tubing where I could. Used a heavy duty(truck style) T-clamp on the lower water pump inlet housing. Jim
Mk3.1 Complete kit #6846 Delv. 12/20/08-- Finished 2/11/11, rebuilt 89 302 EFI,T-5, Sapphire Blue Met w/ Wimbledon White stripes,painted by Jeff Miller,3-Link, 17" Halibrands, Nitto555 245-315 tires,VPM Banana bracket brace,SAI steering kit, Mods--widened drivers footbox w/ dead pedal, extended passengers footbox,radiator stone guard shield, Build blog http://jimsffrcobrabuild.blogspot.com/
I cut on the small diameter portion of the hose and went around the edge with a pair of needle nose pliers and squished the first rib flat so that it ends up with a larger diameter than the "large diameter" portion of the rest of the hose. This helps prevent the hose from popping off. I also used these types of clamps:
Standard pipes have a raised bead to give the hose clamp something to grab in to. There are ways to put a bead in there like a factory bead. But that's a pain in the behind to build the tools, or expensive to buy.
I simply put about 6 1/8" rivets around the pipe near the end. That was 7-8 years years ago.
Be aware that the rubber hose adapters soften on the first heat cycle. You need to re-tension all clamps as the temperature comes up the first time (or a hose will pop off under pressure) and re-check after first fire.
I think these are the best clamps you can buy: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-240200/
Add three or four 1/4" long round head stainless sheet metal screws a couple of rows in from the end of the SS hose. Slide the coupler over them and tighten down the clamp to the dry side (as shown that would be to the right of the screws). This effectively creates a bead; once the clamp is tightened it will not allow the hose to come over.
Here's my opinion , probably not worth the usual 2 cents . Years of installing hose clamps , use a nut driver or a 1/4 ratchet + socket . Screw drivers dont get them tight enough . However if there is no bead do what the others said.. Bob
FFR5020 MK III Whitby body +paint, sai mod, Tremec,408, Cobra/Oben brakes , Halibrands, mass flo , gas n pipes, levy rad team3 spinners.Fortes driveshaft, pulleys ,and quick release steering
Had my upper rad hose blow off twice, it was that SS corrugated hose and hose inserts to make it the correct size. I bought Breeze Auto's upper and lower rad hose kits and used Gates powergrip clamps. Haven't had any challenges in the last 5,000 miles with this setup
Throw that corrugated crap in the trash where it belongs before it gets you stranded. Buy the hoses from Breeze or search around the forum and find out the correct P/N rubber hoses to use. There is a reason car companies use the plain jane rubber hose.... Its proven to be reliable.
FFR MK4 7285 IRS 428FE PSPB TKO600
Graduate Auburn 12/13/2010!
First Go-Kart 12/18/10
On the Road 11-11
This is one of the things that scares the hell out of me when I hear of so many guys going out for go-kart rides and taking the kids, wives, friends.. If that top hose blows off, someone could be badly burned!
Having been the victim of a second degree burn from this in the past, I want to make sure that never happens again...
Smle is good. Small screws or rivets and clamp just beyond those. Preferrably double-clamp unless you're using the T-bolt clamps..
Regards - Randy Racecar Fab/Support GT40 331 - Weber IDAs, G50 5spd 69 Camaro SS 4spd 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid - 44.2 MPG daily driver 2002 Avalanche 2500 - Avian Target
My GT-40 Build Site: http://www.GT-FORTY.com
I machined stainless steel collars to fit on the corrugated tubing that FFR provided in their complete kit. These collars are 0.040" wall thickness to give about the same size flange as on other fittings. These are silver soldered on the corrugated. Rubber hoses are secured with FFR supplied hose clamps.
That wont fit inside of the tube, and what Mark is concerned about is the flex tubing that comes with the kit.
Mark if you use that, be prepared! You know how much trouble I give Tim about his rear brakes, that stuff is worse.
If you use metal tubing and short sections of hose, there is about four feet less hose to rupture over time. Radiator hoses don't fail where you want them to, so chose where they will and minimize the risk.
The Gates shrink hose clamps work, and work well. They don't strip, don't pinch the hose, don't need a special driver, just a hair dryer or heat gun. Everybody keeps spare hose clamps, keep some of them, too, and you don't have to make a trip to repair something at the last minute.
Have a muffler shop mandrel bend the correct size tubing and you don't have intermediate joints, either. It's smoother flowing and the result will be less internal resistance compared to the spiral stainless stuff. They can also expand an end the next size if needed, or even weld it.
And if you're really cheap and ingenious, you just find a clean section of factory stainless exhaust pipe at the salvage yard and use that.
I recall one of the Fourm members making a bead forming tool out of a pair of Vise-Grips. He had the upper jaw (the outer part) with a groove and the lower jaw (the inner part) with a little elongated dimple. By crimping the tool on successive increments around the tube he made an original looking bead.
Possibly someone will have a similar memory and a link to the thread.
Driving a car like this is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.
Sand an old metal coat hanger and wrap it around a tube 1/4" smaller than the tube you are going to install it on. Sand the end of the tube you are going to use on the car. Press the bent coat hanger over the final tube and cut where the two ends overlap. Smooth JB weld over the coat hanger to the tube.
When I built my Coupe I had this same concern. What I did was to use some 80 grit sand paper to rough up the outside of the SS pipe so the clamp could have more bite. I used the stock clamps but I think there is enough room to use two of them on the SS side if you want to, just put the screw part 180 degrees apart. I only used 1 clamp and have not had a blow off. Just be sure the clamp is tight as it compresses the rubber into the folds of the SS pipe. Check a few times after everything heats up and you should be fine.
Drill two small 1/16" holes in the end of the pipe 180 degrees apart.
Stick a piece of .060 SS safety wire in one hole and bend it over on the inside. Then wrap about 4-5 turns around the pipe and stick the end in the other hole pull tight and bend over. then put JB weld over the wire to make a beed. after it's dry snip off the ends inside the pipe with a small pair of dikes.
Worked for me
The failure point I experienced with the FFR corrogated stainless hose system was between the coupler hose and the downsizing insert bushing. The insert bushing had a lot of slippery mold release on it. I cleaned the mold release off all but one of them--you can see it coming. The failure was prompt, during the first heat cycle. Since cleaning that one as well, it is now holding well thousands of miles later.
Also, remember to recheck clamp tightness after a few heat cycles and the rubber has settled. That's why OEMs use the spring type clamps--self adjusting for that initial settling.
Enjoy SoCal: La Canada to Wrightwood to Crestline to Idylwild to Palm Springs and back
Spec Challenge roadster in process.....
Mike beat me to it. The kit from earls/summit with many sizes is expensive at $399 but if you measure your pipe Diameter you can buy individual roller for about $60. As bigfoot describes this is a potential hazzard. My gocart ride proved just as explained minus the burns just a big mess.
heck everyone needs an excuse to buy another tool and say it is for safety sake and your golden!
Upstate NY. Moved in and starting to work in the garage and not on it!
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