Two questions. I keep seeing post of guys repositioning the battery to the front because of "better weight distribution"
I don't fully understand this train of thought. It is my understanding you would want equal weight distributed front to back, left to right. Move (or keeping) the battery in the rear could only help this out. Can someone shed some light on this for me?
I know there are other reasons to move the battery to the front, this is just the one I question.
#2 Aux battery terminals, say for using jumper cables. I plan on using the FFR battery box that lowers the battery below the trunk. Are there kits for the Aux terminals. What have others done?
__________________
Bill
Ambition is a dream with a V8 engine
Elvis Aaron Presley
Ordered MKIII Dec 2008 - Canceled Jan 2009
Mk IV Down Payment August '12
Delivered Feb '13
Setup for 302, Complete IRS
347 Stroker - AFR Heads -Mass-Flo - T5
Duel Roll bar
Halibrand 17" Wheels
I don't fully understand this train of thought. It is my understanding you would want equal weight distributed front to back, left to right. Move (or keeping) the battery in the rear could only help this out.
Regarding question(s) #1, heh, let me see if I can get this straight...
Your *average* SBF FFR build seems to come out *around* 53% rear weight and 47% front weight.
Of course, most of them run wider wheels in the back, so do they really want 50/50 weight distribution?
The battery is definately more challenging to get in + out of the back, and leads to more problems if you don't run big enough battery cable(s) to the front.
All and all, does front or back battery make much difference in the weight distribution? I think it makes very little difference. That said, mine's going in the back (because that's where I want it)...
As for aux posts, I haven't seen much evidence that roadster guys are doing that...
It is my understanding you would want equal weight distributed front to back, left to right. Move (or keeping) the battery in the rear could only help this out. Can someone shed some light on this for me?
Sure. The roadsters are rear heavy. Depending on engine combination and accessories generally in the neighborhood of 52% rear/48% front + or -. Add the driver and the LR winds up being the heavy corner. Putting the battery on the right front does the most good to equalize things before using the springs to adjust corner weights.
The specifications state the rear is heavier than the front:
"Weight distribution – F/R 46.9/53.1 (percent)"
The battery in front would change this slightly. I kept mine in the rear, as low as possible.
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Mk II+, Crate 5.0 w/ E303 Cam, 3-Link, TKO500, Mass-Flo, 9psi Powerdyne, Ford Fun Drop Butt Mod, smooth butt mod, wheel arches mod, roll bar mod, steering rack mod, foot box mod, door latches mod. Self painted. This is why it took so darn long! Go-cart 7/29/2010. Licensed as 1965, insured and on the road 8/12. Former user name David Lindquist.
I have seen pictures where a number of guys have put them on the little ledge by the trunk opening, just to the side of the trunk latch. That might be a little close to the gas tank, but if you have the battery in the rear, your options are limited.
If you don't mind a expansion of your question, in lieu of a minor high jack.
When the remote terminals are installed, are people putting any kind of protection over the terminals? The kits include a cover for the outside portion, but seem to be exposed for the back side where the positive and ground wires are attached.
Thanks,
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Picked up Kit 7/20/09, Tear down stage complete, Donor 2003 Cobra 4.6L supercharged, 25k miles on engine, IRS, 6-speed. Attended Build School October 08. Mods done, frame powder coated 12/12 http://venomxs.com/index.php?view=ca...tent&Itemid=57
I did the relocated battery terminals directly behind the driver on the rear lower shelf with the FFMetal battery box and I have actually used them after the first time or two when the trigger to turn on the alternator wasn't properly connected. As of now, I hadn't put anything on the back of them to protect them because there is nothing back there to touch them. At the suggestion of it, it wouldn't hurt to put some liquid electric tape over the nuts and bolts to protect them. The front side is obviously well protected so that's not a concern.
As for the actual connection with the FFMetal box, I made the connection on the same pole the battery leads in to at the cutoff switch. My only drawback is I cannot charge the battery through those terminals, though I believe that is the fault of the overly complicated battery charger. HTH
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-Mk 3 #4900, home built '94 408W, Tremec 3550, 3.55 IRS, FFR 9"/10.5" wheels and 255/40Z17 - 315/35Z17 Nitto NT-05, ISIS...didn't follow the budget at all but having a blast. First go-kart 21 Sep 2011!
What JKliener said. The cars are definatley rear heavy which is a good thing. The problem is that 95% of the time there is just the driver in the car so it gets LEFT rear heavy quickly. So,putting the battery in the RIGHT front helps this a little. Just a little cause it's a 50# battery vs. a 175 plus # driver
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
My battery went in the back using the ffmetal box. I ran a remote wire into the bottom ledge of the trunk to plug into my battery tender. I saw a ffr car today that had two posts mounted in the same area with plastic removable caps. Looked nice. He said he has never used them and built the car in 2004.
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#7619 MKIV IRS complete kit, non donor
351 tko 500
Delivered Nov 13, 2011
First start December 31, 2011
First gocart Jan 12 ,2012
picked up from painter 5/5/2012
Graduation 05/12/201
Regarding question(s) #1, heh, let me see if I can get this straight...
Your *average* SBF FFR build seems to come out *around* 53% rear weight and 47% front weight.
Of course, most of them run wider wheels in the back, so do they really want 50/50 weight distribution?
The battery is definately more challenging to get in + out of the back, and leads to more problems if you don't run big enough battery cable(s) to the front.
All and all, does front or back battery make much difference in the weight distribution? I think it makes very little difference. That said, mine's going in the back (because that's where I want it)...
As for aux posts, I haven't seen much evidence that roadster guys are doing that...
HTH,
Mike
Thanks Mike, I had no idea.
__________________
Bill
Ambition is a dream with a V8 engine
Elvis Aaron Presley
Ordered MKIII Dec 2008 - Canceled Jan 2009
Mk IV Down Payment August '12
Delivered Feb '13
Setup for 302, Complete IRS
347 Stroker - AFR Heads -Mass-Flo - T5
Duel Roll bar
Halibrand 17" Wheels
I put in remote terminals to make it easier to charge/jump the battery if needed. It is in the rear trunk area and I like it there. Though about putting it in front but decided against it. Both terminals have a color coded cover. I think I bought the set from FFR.
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MK4 Complete Kit #7327 delivered 9 Oct 2010. Roller 12 Jan 2011, First start 22 Dec 2011, 427W (7 Liters) FAST EFI 548 hp, 543 TQ @ flywheel w/ Billit Specialties front end. IRS aluminum case 3.55 gear w/locker, solid bushings. Tremec T56 6 speed, NITTO NT555 EXTREME ZR on Halibrand 17"X9" front 17"X10.5" rear, FFR Bump steer kit, PS, PB, Vintage Air A/C-heater, IDIDIT steering column w/flashers, turn signal, Hi-Low beam switch & horn, Premium rag top, double roll bars.
IMHO, the best place to put remote terminals is under the hood somewhere. Way back when my battery was mounted in the rear, I had remote terminals mounted through a small aluminum panel that was attached to the 3/4" tubes right above the steering shaft. Connect the (+) one to the hot side of the starter solenoid. Less voltage drop if you have to jump your car, no chance of something metal in your trunk arcing the terminals and torching your car, AND a very convenient spot to hook up your timing light!
a very convenient spot to hook up your timing light!
Nice idea. Another thought I had was to maybe use a Brad Harrison type connector (used on forktruck + pallet jacks). They make them in various sizes and amperage ratings.
What JKliener said. The cars are definatley rear heavy which is a good thing. The problem is that 95% of the time there is just the driver in the car so it gets LEFT rear heavy quickly. So,putting the battery in the RIGHT front helps this a little. Just a little cause it's a 50# battery vs. a 175 plus # driver
Come on Craig, 175? LOL
This is all good. The back truck ledge is where I was thinking until Wade put his 2 cents in. Very practical. Did you run the (-) negative line all the way back to the battery?
__________________
Bill
Ambition is a dream with a V8 engine
Elvis Aaron Presley
Ordered MKIII Dec 2008 - Canceled Jan 2009
Mk IV Down Payment August '12
Delivered Feb '13
Setup for 302, Complete IRS
347 Stroker - AFR Heads -Mass-Flo - T5
Duel Roll bar
Halibrand 17" Wheels
My battery is in the trunk and I made a lid on hinges so I can lift it, why put in remote terminals when youc an just lift the lid and connect the jumper directly?
Unless ofcourse you keep your car on a trickle charger, if that is true then terminals hidden in the rear under the car would be ideal so you can just attach the charger without having to leave the trunk or hood open.
__________________
MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
This is all good. The back truck ledge is where I was thinking until Wade put his 2 cents in. Very practical. Did you run the (-) negative line all the way back to the battery?
No....just a few inches to the frame. I think I used one of the bolts holding the steering shaft bearing.
My battery is in the trunk and I made a lid on hinges so I can lift it, why put in remote terminals when youc an just lift the lid and connect the jumper directly?
Unless ofcourse you keep your car on a trickle charger, if that is true then terminals hidden in the rear under the car would be ideal so you can just attach the charger without having to leave the trunk or hood open.
X2 for sure. This BT comes with a cable that is designed specifically for permanent attachment in the car and ensures correct polarity and easy connect/disconnect to the tender. The end simply tucks up wherever you want it to.
Regards,
Bill
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MKII, PDW, Torsen 3.55 Pin Drive IRS, Dart 393W, AFR 185's, Victor Jr., Accufab TB, Accel DFI GEN 7 EMS, TKO 600 wMcleod Scatter&Street Twin Clutch, 1+1 Elec., TTD's, Da Bat Paint
There is also the polar moment of inertia. This is the resistance of the car to start turning and the desire for it to keep turning in the same direction once it is moving. So from a top view of the car you want the weight to be as close to the center of the car (closer to the center of gravity) as possible. I think if it as keeping the weight between the axles. (this also why it is a good idea to mount your rear calipers to the front side of the axle). So with a trunk or rear mounted battery the mass of the battery is behind the rear axle which is outside the axes. With the Breeze engine compartment battery mounting kit the battery is behind the front axle so it is between the axles. This allows the car to turn more easily or change direction more easily so steering is quicker and more responsive. It is also lower than rear mounted batteries (only about 3/4" above the bottom of the 4" round tube) so the resulting CG will be lower which will result in better cornering ability.
In addition the recommended battery for the engine compartment battery mounting kit is about 10lbs lighter than a standard Mustang battery typically installed in the rear. There is also the additional weight savings of not needing a long cable and the remote terminals.
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Mark Reynolds Breeze Automotive 508 533 6455 Office 508 612 0393 Mobile
Mk3 Roadster, EzePak Master 3-Link Mass-Flo EFI, Breeze/QA1 Externally Single Adjustable Coil Over Shocks, Breeze Adjustable Front Sway Bar, Vintage Race Seats, Hidden Body Mounts, Power Steering, Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel, Torsen Diff w 3.27's, Stewart Warner Maximuim Performance Gauges, Breeze Quick Release Steering Wheels
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